SS20 Fashion Month: 4 top lessons for Brands.

Vizeum Global
Vizeum
Published in
4 min readOct 22, 2019

SS20 Fashion Month: 4 top lessons for Brands.

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

  • Digital has democratised the fashion space making it increasingly competitive for brands to stand out to consumers as well as be authentic in their quest to be good corporate citizens.
  • A space that is no stranger to harnessing tech & innovation, the last five years has seen a plethora of tactics, though most have not truly resonated to create an enduring legacy beyond a good PR story.
  • Tech still maintains a presence but diversity, environmental impact and show experience have been distinctive themes this season.
  • Brands are innovating themselves through their own organic purpose and as a response to cultural shifts and demand, this season witnessed some breaking new ground.

SS20 fashion week madness has now drawn to a close across New York, London, Milan & Paris, and it’s a good time to reflect on how the industry is changing, and how brands are developing their product offering to engage, excite and win over both new and existing customers.

The exponential rate at which digital has transformed the fashion landscape has created a whole new world of opportunity, these once highly exclusive events have now been opened to the masses. Competition is even more fierce, making it increasingly challenging to make an impact and most importantly, take responsibility in a world that is now passionate about harnessing a positive social and environmental change.

This space has historically been fertile territory for fresh tactics & tech innovation and over the last five years, we have seen many interesting developments including: See-Now, Buy-Now, AR, VR, Chatbots, Invisible Payment Tech, Machine Learning & Audience-Driven Social.

In the SS20 season, tech innovation on the runway has been minimal, and while it has still played a role, we look at innovation in a broad sense and the tactics that brands are adopting. This enables us to prioritise opportunities within the fashion sector.

Tech

Probably the most talked-about highlight of fashion month was Versace’s integration of voice search to their show. Donatella Versace asked Google to show images of the famous Jungle Dress worn by J-Lo at the 2000 Grammys — said to be the reason for the creation of Google Image Search. She then asked Google to reveal the ‘real’ Jungle Dress, which saw J-Lo emerge in physical form, in a reimagined design. Doing this was a well-placed move, blending tech and influencer to ignite brand fame. It sent PR into a heated frenzy, creating an optimal moment to drive future commerce. Versace showed its peers how tech innovation could work the runway to powerful effect.

Versace SS20

2. Diversity

Demonstrating diversity on the runway, whether of gender identity, race or nationality, will reflect what diversity means for the industry at large. The Savage x Fenty show re-wrote what diversity could and should look like. Women of different shapes, sizes and disabilities walked the runway, giving them a platform to feel accepted, to feel powerful and not feel marginalised. It will take time for luxury fashion to feel comfortable being this uninhibited. However, this season, The Savage x Fenty show innovated the diversity agenda and left a legacy of how brands could follow suit in the future.

Savage x Fenty SS20

3. Environmental Impact

The impact of fashion on the environment is becoming more widely publicised. Social sharing fuels this and can cause a furore able to destroy a decade of a brand’s good reputation. Activists like Extinction Rebellion are not going away, and brands are having to stand up and take responsibility. Carbon neutral was the buzz word this year. Gabriela Hearst led the charge in New York with a show that considered the offset of carbon by using locally sourced models while creating a more energy-efficient production. Burberry also led by example with a carbon-neutral show, and Stella McCartney hosted a round table to discuss climate change. The culmination of this was at Paris Fashion Week with Kering committing to full carbon neutrality across the Group. Next season, it would be good to see the math demonstrating this is not window-dressing, but something that carries a distinct purpose and intention to drive tangible change.

Burberry SS20

4.Experience

In a highly competitive category, the catwalk provides a moment for brands to differentiate themselves through show production and experience. Chanel consistently lead the field with their ostentatious productions, but this year seemed more modest with a Parisian inspired rooftop. Gucci and Dior enhanced their show experience with the incorporation of conveyor belts, providing a futuristic tone. Cultural appropriation through music was a big theme, with Louis Vuitton, Tommy Hilfiger and Savage x Fenty all incorporating music & performance into their shows. Satoshi Condo led the runway innovation charge this season with a cable aided show for Issey Miyake. Models were strategically placed, with their dresses raised above them in fabric-lined metallic hoops, suspended by a pulley mechanic, which then descended onto them. All great examples of brands providing something extra that continues to disrupt the space, create social buzz and most importantly drive heat for consumers to engage online where the likes of Amazon Prime (Savage x Fenty) is becoming a destination to host a democratised yet exclusive experience.

Issey Miyake SS20
Andrew Tillyer is Global Client Lead at Vizeum.

--

--