Snow Monkeys in Japan — And Why They Aren’t in Cages
There was no snow in early December in the Nagano prefecture. We’d taken trains from Tokyo to Nagano to Yudanaka Station, then a bus to the entrance to the trail that led through the forest to the hot springs where we might — -or might not — — actually see snow monkeys hanging out in the hot springs. The sky was overcast, the trail muddy. The guides were not optimistic. But I’d come this far. I wanted my National Geo moment.
In the Jigokudana Snow Monkey Park, the monkeys live in the forest, not in cages. They show up at some hot springs in the morning and usually head back to wherever they hang out in the mountains in late afternoon. They have been domesticated in that the park staff provides food for them, and they’ve acclimated to being watched by humans. But they’re still wild monkeys.
There were signs posted in both Japanese and English along the trail defining appropriate behavior for the humans: Do not touch the monkeys; Keep a safe distance (if monkeys pass close to you stay perfectly still); Do not stare at a monkey (no eye contact, and, if accidental eye contact, immediately look away); Do NOT give any food to monkeys; Do not bring any plastic or paper bags that are visible as stray monkeys may snatch it from you thinking it has food; Do not use a selfie stick or underwater camera. And, seriously, do NOT feed the monkeys.
These are not complicated rules. They are simple and clear cut. Follow them and you can have an almost spiritual or return-to-childhood (“I feel like I’m 10 years old again… this is so totally cool”) experience. The Japanese assiduously follow the rules, and they make it clear that they expect you to also (very politely, of course.)
What became clear to me, in ten minutes, is that this “arrangement” would not be possible in the United States. Our culture assumes that a portion of our population will not follow rules. And because they will not, we all bear the burden of non-compliance. No matter the specifics, some Americans behave as if rules really are “made to be broken.” It’s that “Don’t Step On Me” mentality, where even common sense directives can be interpreted as constricting their right to do whatever they damn well please. Americans rationalize (“Hey, a little ham sandwich won’t hurt and I want a good selfie with a monkey.”) Cocky kids would think it’s cool to have a stare-down with a monkey, showing off to their friends (until a monkey hurtles over, all claws and fangs and cute bushy fur, going for the face.) Americans often have an exaggerated sense of entitlement that allows them to ignore a rule, or pretend that rules are games where you win if you can get away with something. In the United States, the snow monkeys (if monkeys lived in our forests) would need to be in cages, not because they are intrinsically dangerous, but because some people would not leave them in peace if they are not kept apart by bars ands walls.
Now, hang in there for the segue…
Americans see rules as suggestions. We jaywalk. We speed. We fudge on our taxes. It takes a dire threat, a national emergency, to elicit mass compliance. In mere weeks, our lives have been upended, and every day brings a new mandate, from “social distancing” to “shelter-in-place” to “wear a mask if you go out.” (Not that there are any masks to purchase, anywhere, but we’re supposed to make them.) And I’m impressed with just how compliant the great majority of our citizens have been. But, with a threat such as COVID, even if a majority of people mostly follow the rules, that’s not sufficient. Because if even a small minority do not believe that rules apply to them, rationalize or dismiss the need for a rule, think that the rules are a “hoax” or stupid, believe that what our fearless leader says off the top of his head trumps the meticulous, detailed, factual, researched, informed-if-also-tedious explanations of the physicians and scientists… this minority will always “feed” the monkeys.”
In public, they’ll hang out with friends (“We’re all fine” and “Nobody is sick in our group”), flock to beaches (“But it’s my senior year!”), continue to play basketball at the park (”We’re outdoors. What’s the problem?”). More dangerous is the behavior behind closed doors: not washing hands, not sanitizing surfaces, protocols.
In Japan, people respect education and science. They respect elders as wise, not as dispensable. Japan is behind the COVID curve right now because their president did not mandate social distancing early enough, did not close all the malls and shops. We’re in the same boat, as our president waffled, made totally inaccurate predictions and assurances, still refuses to direct a national order, and continues to obfuscate about ventilators and protective gear for medical staff. What medical professionals state as critical and essential gets lip service, but is not modeled.
From what I observed in Japan, once rules are clearly defined, they will be followed. To not respect the rule is to disrespect everyone.
But, here, in the USA, there will always be some of us who will feed the monkeys. And the rest of us seem resigned, almost accept this as inevitable, even when our very lives are at stake.
