Tarragona: A Rich, Relaxing, Historic Budget Alternative to Barcelona
So, you like to visit or would like to see Barcelona, but wish it were not so crowded and full of tourists like yourself? Travel writer Susan Kraus has a perfect alternative destination for you.
It was a beautiful autumn afternoon in Tarragona, Spain. Locals packed into the pedestrian-only cobbled streets of the medieval town center, and we were there with them, having found a perch on the side of a rock wall of the 12th- century Cathedral of Tarragona. All eyes were focused on the street, where a parade unlike anything I’d ever seen before was approaching. Costumed figures led the procession and were marching throughout the ranks. There were magical beasts spouting fire (seriously, fireworks and sparklers erupting from mouths and tails), dragons, sea serpents, massive bulls, a mermaid-dragon, and even a giant golden chicken. Diables ( five-foot high handcrafted heads of biblical, historical, and contemporary figures) bobbed past. Surrounding towns were represented by dancers and marchers, all in traditional regalia reflecting their local heritage. Musicians played bagpipes made from goat bellies and skins, drums of all sizes, flutes, and horns. Young girls in white lace dresses and red sashes performed the folk dances of their Catalan traditions. Participating towns were represented by monster mascots and their own strolling bands. It was a riotous mix of colors and sound.
This was the procession celebrating Santa Tecla, a beloved patron saint. Her festival, spanning 10 days each autumn, celebrates the return of a relic, her arm. The year 2022 marked 700 years since its return, but even without that milestone number, it’s clear from the celebrations that this is one very special arm — and that the traditions honoring it are alive and well.
As I stood among the crowd, I couldn’t help but contrast it to a parade in the United States. We would have barricades up and police ensuring no one ran into the street or got close to the fireworks spouting from the costumed creatures. But here there were no barricades, no warning signs. Sitting next to me was a mother, three kids in tow. I asked her if there were rules or guidelines I didn’t know about. She looked confused. “It is Santa Tecla, always the parade like this. So, don’t wear flammable clothing,” she replied, gesturing at two of her children who had run into the street and were hopping up and down around what looked like a dancing, metal-plated armadillo. “See, my kids have on old cotton. They just brush off the sparks.”
After the parade, we walked back to our hotel. In the square, a Catalan band was playing to hundreds of people who were swaying and dancing to the music. There were concerts every night all over the city. People don’t sleep much during Santa Tecla.
But it was the human towers, the next afternoon, the “castels” (castles), that blew me away. Dozens of cities and towns have teams, for the competition; people climb up each other’s backs, stand on each other’s shoulders, many stories high. They do not start to descend, sliding down backs, until a small child completes the tower by climbing to the top and raising a hand. This authentic, exhilarating celebration was our introduction to a city I had never known much about but is now one of my favorite European destinations.
Never Heard of Tarragona? (You’re Not Alone)
Like Barcelona, its more famous cousin 52 miles to the north, Tarragona is an eastern Spanish port city on the Balearic Sea, leading to the Mediterranean. It is a modern city of just under 140,000, but with a medieval core of twisty pedestrian streets leading to the magnificent cathedral. Roman ruins seem ubiquitous, from the time when Tarragona was “Tarraco,” one of the earliest Roman settlements on the Iberian Peninsula, more important to the empire than Barcelona, and older than Madrid.
But Tarragona is not detailed in most popular guidebooks, from Fodor’s to Rick Steves. Those omissions are strange because Tarragona feels like how people described Barcelona some 50 years ago — when it was just as wonderful and full of historic and cultural attractions, but not drowning in tourists. Tarragona still has that feel of a rich cultural center, but with less hassle. No lines and no waits for tickets. No jostling in front of tourist photo spots.
Tarragona feels different. Relaxed. One example: Many Spanish cities have a rambla, a tree-lined promenade in the middle of the city where people stroll, congregate, and visit. In Barcelona, Las Ramblas is now congested, tourist-driven, dotted by souvenir kiosks every 20 feet, and full of jacked-up prices and pickpockets. But, in Tarragona, the Rambla Nova is for locals: parents pushing strollers, older couples arm-in-arm or sitting on park benches under the trees, and gaggles of teens checking each other out. There are street musicians, but they are not encircled by throngs of tourists. No kiosks. No pickpockets. This rambla is for the people who live here.
Unlike in Barcelona, in Tarragona it is easy to find wonderful and affordable accommodation. Our hotel, the B&B Centro Urbis, was on a corner overlooking the Placa de Corsini, which was lined with umbrella tables of bakeries and restaurants. Across the Placa was the Mercat Central, built in 1915 to house stalls of butchers, fisherman, and vendors of produce, fruit, baked goods, and flowers. Now, the Mercat Central is an upscale market for all of these goods, along with fabulous take-out food. Within the historic building, there are now escalators descending to a modern, spacious underground grocery store.
A More Relaxed Destination
The sights and daily bustle of Tarragona became our entertainment. We would watch everyday life from the open window of our room. Each morning, parents walked their kids to school across the open square. Each afternoon, kids kicked soccer balls and rode bikes as parents bought groceries for supper at the Mercat. Street musicians provided a backdrop. After just a few days, we were immersed in a different lifestyle — people walked everywhere, were unhurried, relaxed.
Touring Tarragona was serendipitous. We tossed out the checklist and itinerary; we took hours for a meal. It felt good simply to sip wine and watch the parade of ordinary life, so different from our lives at home, passing by. Of course, there are things to see and do in Tarragona … but being there is pleasurable enough.
To See and Do
Roman Amphitheater — Dating from the 2nd century, when more than 13,000 people would flood this amphitheater to watch gladiators battle — and public executions.
National Archeological Museum of Tarragona — Covers 8 centuries, providing context to understand the city’s cultural evolution.
Circ Roma — Chariot races were held here as far back as the 1st century. Small museum of artifacts. Kids love the tunnels. Great views from the rooftop.
Cathedral of Tarragona — Built on the site of a Roman temple and Moorish mosque, with the Catholic cathedral dating from 1154. I loved the interior cloister. Small museum included.
El Serallo — The Waterfront district has a fishing village feel with pastel houses, waterfront promenade, and cafes with special fish dishes.
Museum of Modern Art — This is a jewel of a museum with changing exhibits. Its modern design is such a contrast to the cobbled streets of the old city that surround it.
Mercat Central Built in 1915 to centralize the stalls of butchers, fisherman, and other vendors, this is now an upscale shopping area.
Casa de la Festa — This small museum celebrates the festivals’ costumes, parade figures and history. Google “Casa de la Festa in Tarragona” to see delightful pictures of parade beasts and diables.
Port of Tarragona Museum — Maritime history, old ships, and artifacts galore are housed in this high-ceilinged, spacious waterfront warehouse.
Beaches — Playa de Milagro is walkable from the city center, along a bay with gentle waves. There are 15 kilometers of coastline, from rocky ledges to sandy coves. Many more beaches with amenities are with an hour’s drive.
Trails — There are 75 kilometers of paths to hike, mountain bike or ride horseback in and around Tarragona. Tourism offices have maps and suggestions.
Aqualon — A water park with slides, rafting, waterfalls and play equipment for youth and with deck chairs under palm trees for parents.
Jungle Trek is an adventure park with ziplines, rope bridges, and forest hikes.
For more Tarragona attractions, see tarragonaturisme.cat
Lodging Tips
B&B Hotels (some do not do breakfast, but all have 24-hour coffee) originated in France but is a rapidly expanding European chain. Hotels are smaller, featuring minimalist décor and an IKEA feel. Prices shift with demand, but our shoulder-season rates were under $60 a night. If you’re planning to travel around Europe, consider a low-fee annual membership, with perks like 10% off every stay and more. Staying in Tarragona can be much less expensive than Barcelona, and trains and buses run regularly. Many Barcelona tours are available from Tarragona, with transportation provided.
This article was originally published in the Spring 2023 issue of Lawrence Magazine.
