Our Newest National Park: West Virginia’s New River Gorge
“Paddle right, paddle right. Stop. Paddle left, paddle left, left, left, left ….”
It was a misty morning, which most mornings are on the New River Gorge. Our raft was navigating a Class IV rapid, which meant we were trying to get a raft with 6 people past massive boulders — while avoiding a submerged rock that could, we are told, toss our raft upside down — and then paddling the raft back to the middle of the river where a smooth current will carry us down river and into the next rapid.
It was the most fun I’d had since way before COVID.
“Whoo-eeeeeee,” erupted, the sound of manic excitement usually made by kids. And kids we were: no responsibilities, no worry, just paddle when directed. And laugh when splashed. And scream like little girls when totally drenched as the raft plunged into the next rapid.
We were rafting down our newest national park. Fifty-three miles of the New River, and roughly 70,000 acres, are now officially The New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. The New River flows north, like the Nile, and is not ‘new.’ Rather, it’s debated to be the world’s second-oldest river, estimated from 3 million to 360 million years old. President Jimmy Carter designated it as a national river in 1978, but becoming a National Park is a big step up.
It’s an unusual National Park as there are no official entrances, thus no entrance fees, although the Canyon Rim Visitor Center has maps, historical exhibits and very helpful park rangers. My favorite free handout is a 20-page Trails of New River, with detailed descriptions and difficulty ratings of over 50 trails.
West Virginia is, geographically, the opposite of Kansas. Lots of mountains (it’s the most “mountainous” state in the USA) at every turn.
What will you find in southern West Virginia? Here goes: too-many-to-count trails, scenic drives, waterfalls and overlooks; twisty back roads to abandoned railroad towns and coal mining sites; historic small towns with cafes and antique stores; mirror- clear lakes and rushing rivers; rock climbing, mountain biking, zip-lining, swimming, fishing, paddle-boarding, kayaking, rafting. More fishing. Then skiing and snow-boarding in winter.
In the area are state parks, including Pipestem State Park (lodges, cabins, camping, amenities) and Bluestone State Park (wilderness hiking, camping.) Soak up views from Canyon Rim Visitor Center, and visit the Glade Creek Grist Mill, the Hinton Railroad Museum, Lost World Caverns and Summersville Lake (so clear that scuba divers love it.)
Have a Base Camp:
There are chain hotels, cabins and some airbnbs in the smaller cities. But most lodging requires driving to every different activity. Not simply walking through the woods. And you come here for the nature.
Adventures On The Gorge is a laid-back resort, with lodging (from upscale houses to cabins to camp sites) sprinkled throughout the forest. But everyone has access to all the amenities: three restaurants and music venues (like Chetty’s, a pub with jaw-dropping sunset views and great food); general store; terraced pool perched on the top of the gorge; creative playgrounds; hiking trails and easy access to ‘adventures.’ The vibe is relaxed, and the trappings of work and status disappear. Everyone is there to enjoy nature, to try something new, to have fun.
AOTG is a safe place to get out of your comfort zone: lazy family floats or whitewater thrills; Canopy Tours (10 zip-lines & 5 sky-bridges); rock climbing; mountain biking; paddle-boarding; kayaking; fishing; battle game courses (paintball on steroids) — — and the Bridgewalk, where you cross the “underbelly” of the 3,100 ft. New River Gorge Bridge (the longest single-span in the U.S.) at 876 ft. up — heart-clutching views within an engineering marvel. You’ll get over a fear of heights or die trying.
It’s rare that I endorse a particular lodging, but AOTG is an exception. You can find other rafting companies, and activities, but not without a drive. At AOTG, safety comes first, guides are experienced, family members can choose different activities and re-connect at dinner to share their adventures. And whoever wants to lounge by the pool with a drink, take a nap, walk in the woods? It’s all right there.
Shop and Dine:
For regional art, crafts, jewelry, outstanding jams and sauces, beautiful glass-art (watch the glassblower at work), I found Tamarack Marketplace near Beckley a relaxing stop. I walked the ‘circle’ (the shops flow together in a circular building) three times because it was so visually appealing. The towns close to the gorge — Beckley, Hinton and Fayetteville — -all have local shopping and their own ‘feel.’
Don’t make restaurant choices based on curb appeal. For example, I was told that The Dish Café had tasty Mediterranean food. But, looking for The Dish, I passed it twice because it was in a small strip mall. Would I have ever thought, “Gee, let’s try this place”? No. But the food was outstanding. Drool-worthy. In Fayetteville, check out the Cathedral Café, Arrowhead Bike Farm and Pies & Pints. Ask locals and the local tourism offices for suggestions. Be adventurous.
Departure:
In the women’s bathroom at the cozy airport in Charleston, the sign over the sinks read (in a unique take on COVID protocols): “Wash your hands long enough to hum two stanzas of Take Me Home, Country Roads.” I listened for ten minutes as twelve women came and went. Some hummed, some sang, but not one missed a note or a word.
Almost heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River
Life is old there, older than the trees
Younger than the mountains, growin’ like a breeze
Country roads, take me home
To the place I belong
West Virginia, mountain mama
Take me home, country roads
This was my first visit to West Virginia, and I was only there for a week. But it was long enough to drive the country roads, to feel a tug strong enough to know I’ll be going back.
Greenbrier Hotel and Bunker Tour:
The Greenbrier is a historic, elegant resort. The once top-secret “Bunker” was built, in Cold War days, deep beneath the hotel, to house the President and Congress in the event of a nuclear war. Now you can stroll though a 25-ton blast door to a nether-world 720 feet underground, with dormitories, cafeterias and enough supplies to feed 1100 people for 40 days. It’s a wide-eyed wake-up for dystopia-obsessed kids — a blast from the past.
Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine:
This is my one “do not miss” tourist attraction. It integrates mining history with real-life views of mining towns and lives. Everyone giving the tours into the exhibition mine is a former miner. The women guides for the “living history” parts — Coal Camp church, school, homes, shanty — are family members of miners (the two I spoke with were widows of men who died from Black Lung disease.) While the mine guides make jokes, and efforts to entertain, the harsh realities and dangers of miner’s lives came across loud and clear.
Adjacent, on the grounds, is the interactive Youth Museum of Southern West Virginia, a rainy day back-up, plus outdoor exhibits of a restored one-room schoolhouse, barn, general store, blacksmith, weaver, etc.
Check Out:
