The Japanese Alps: A Primer (Part 1)
The Japanese Alps are a series of steep mountain ranges found in central Japan. I personally consider them the most beautiful part of Japan. It is a rather vast region with a large variety of cultures and landscapes. In fact, the ‘Japanese Alps’ is a relatively new term, coined by a foreigner who also admired the rugged beauty of the region. In this four part series, I will give an in depth overview of each part of the Japanese Alps, and what they can offer. This primer will serve as a quick look at what is to come.
The ‘Japanese Alps’ are actually made up of three major mountain ranges. These ranges are: The Hida Mountains (also known as the Northern Alps), The Kiso Mountains (also known as the Central Alps), and the Akaishi Mountains (also known as the Southern Alps). The popularization of the Japanese Alps in the West can be attributed to the man Walter Weston. Walter Weston was a late 19th century and early 20th century missionary who took a strong fondness to the mountains of Chubu. He did not coin the term for the Japanese Alps, but he certainly proliferated the term among Europeans with his writing. Many of his mountaineering adventures are contained within his book Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps which can be found for free on archive.org. I highly recommend this book as a historical throwback to turn of the century mountaineering techniques as well as insight into cultural practices in the surrounding areas.
The Hida Mountains
The Hida Mountains are the largest and most remote of the three major mountain ranges. The mountains are named after the nearby ancient Hida province. They are spread along the borders of Nagano, Gifu, Toyama, and Niigata prefectures. In feudal times, they formed a natural barrier between Hida, Shinano, Etchu, and Echigo provinces. The steep peaks are some of the most remote in Japan and a number of survival stories and plane crashes have played out amongst them. The area is peppered with scenic hot springs and contains the most remote hot spring in Japan. The southern area of Kamikochi is a stunning alpine valley that draws tourists from around the world to admire the dark rugged peaks overlooking crystal blue waters and fields of flowers. On the north eastern slopes, some of the best skiing in the world takes place at the old Olympic park in Hakuba. In the Japanese psyche, an aura of great rustic beauty and danger surrounds these mountains.
The Kiso Mountains (Including Mt. Ontake)
The Kiso mountains are my favorite little stomping ground. Sandwiched between its two bigger brothers, the Kiso Mountains are the smallest and least known of the three. They occupy the south western portion of Nagano prefecture (what used to be known as Shinano province in feudal times). It is slightly well known for its ropeway, the longest in Japan. The more remote southern and northern sections see dramatically less traffic. The famous post towns of Magome and Tsumago are seated on the southern slopes. Looking like it was carved out of the ground by a hot knife, the Kiso valley cuts through the back side of the mountains. The best swimming holes in all of Japan can be found in this area. Across the valley, standing alone like a monk in solemn prayer, is the massive, volcanically active Mt. Ontake. This remote mountain is a holy destination for Shugendo worship. Shrines and temples dot the mountain all the way around. Sometimes you can see people practicing Misogi (禊), a cold water endurance test while standing under a waterfall.
The Akaishi Mountains
The Akaishi Mountains form a natural barrier between Shizuoka, Nagano, and Yamanashi prefectures. More serious mountaineers tend to skip them and opt to climb in the Hida mountains. Still, the Akaishi Mountains are home to the second tallest mountain in all of Japan, Mount Kita. Due to its proximity to Tokyo, the Akaishi Mountains can see a lot of traffic during the peak summer season. It sees a lot less snow than its northern brother, but still has a large snowpack in winter. On the far Nagano side, the Tenryu River cuts through the rocks. Like a finger sticking into the mountains, the northern part of Shizuoka prefecture is home to the remote mountain town of Ikawa. Ikawa serves as a portal into the center of the mountain range. It is a great starting point for the well-traveled Akaishi-dake and Warusawa-dake trekking loop. Stunning views of Mount Fuji can be seen throughout this range. Whereas the range gets its name from the red rocks that are abundant, a few areas in the North have white mountaintops that create a surreal, moonlike environment.
These three major ranges form the core of Japan. They offer limitless opportunities. Mountain roads and neglected paths are always waiting for the adventurous traveler looking to get off the main track. I will be going a lot more in depth for each region in the subsequent 3 parts of this series.
