Seiko SPB047 review: An affordable enamel dial with classic styling.
In 2016, Seiko released a limited edition chronograph heavily inspired by the Seiko Laurel and was met with overwhelming success. Following up on that in 2017, Seiko released a Presage enamel collection consisting of 4 watches and we’ll be taking a closer look at one of them today, the Seiko SPB047.
According to Seiko, this series of enamel watches draw inspiration from two Seiko icons. Firstly, the enamel dial from the 1913 Seiko Laurel, which was Seiko’s and Japan’s first wristwatch and which also had an enamel dial. Secondly, the roman numerals from Seiko’s “Time Keeper” pocket watch from 1895.
At first glance, the Seiko SPB047 looks like a simple classic dress watch. It is not until you get cosy with it that you come to appreciate its nuances. Let’s take a closer look at this underrated value proposition that is inspired from the archives of vintage Seiko.
Case and strap
- Diameter: 40.5 mm
- Thickness: 12.4 mm
- Lug-to-Lug: 47.8 mm
- Lug Width: 20 mm
- Water Resistance: 100 m
The dial is protected by a double domed sapphire crystal with internal blue AR coating. Sapphire is the right choice here given its fairly high MSRP and it also fits nicely with the overall theme that this watch is supposed to last a lifetime or more with its enamel dial.
The bezel and most of the case is in a high-polished finish, apart from the top of the lugs that are brushed. While the case is rather large and thick for a dress watch, the curved lugs help the watch wear low on the wrist for comfort. At the back, we have an exhibition caseback that is covered with sapphire. The case design is fairly simple and refined, matching the overall theme of the watch. The signed crown at the 3 o’clock position may be fairly large but it allows for ease of use.
The accompanying croc strap is soft to wear and is installed with the tail facing inwards when worn, a trait of Japanese watches. Seiko has gone with a deployant clasp with a brushed buckle to match the case. It fits the watch well and gets the job done but I didn’t like it personally. The clasp didn’t follow the curvature of my skinny wrist all that well and was rather uncomfortable when worn, so I swapped it out for a regular pin buckle strap instead. I would have loved to keep the stock strap and buckle on, damn you skinny Asian wrist. The 100 m depth rating ensures that it will survive the rigors of everyday wear with no issues.
Dial and Hands Set
The star of the show here is the handcrafted enamel dial. Made by master craftsman Mitsuru Yokozawa and his team, you’ll be able to spot tiny “imperfections” if you scrutinise it hard enough, giving the watch its own character that other mass produced watches lack. If you look closely, you’ll be able to see the rough edge finishing of the date window and on mine, you’ll also see some flecks of paint on the dial. You may see these as “flaws’, but it reminds me of the human touch that is becoming an increasingly rare breed in today’s industralised society. To learn more about how Seiko handcrafts its enamel with their master craftsman, read this.
While the Seiko SPB047 looks pedestrian at first glance, the beauty of the white enamel comes through when you take a closer look. The dial glistens a milky white under light and if you look closely enough, you can see the slight grain texture of the enamel.
The hour markers are painted over no fewer than 10 times to lift them from the dial, providing visual depth. An interesting point to note here is the use of the watchmaker’s four (IIII) to provide symmetry. The white date wheel is also framed with the same paint and is slightly concave, presumably due to the manufacturing process.
Framing the dial is a seconds track with Arabic numerals at each hour marker. Personally, I would have preferred it without the Arabic numerals for a cleaner look. Branding is fairly minimal, with the Seiko branding above, with Presage and Automatic below. Under light, the dial printing appears a dark navy but in most lighting conditions, they appear black.
Continuing with the classic theme, we have a leaf style for the hands set and a crescent counter for the seconds hand. The hands are heat blued and the tips are bent to follow the contours of the crystal to minimise case depth, an interesting detail you don’t see on many watches.
Movement
- Caliber: Seiko 6R15
- Power Reserve: 50 hours
- BPH: 21,600
- Stated Accuracy: +25/-15 sec a day
- Hacking and hand winding
The included movement may seem insufficient given the price tag but it gets the job done. If this was released now, it would probably have the newer 6R35 movement instead but I think that would have driven the cost up as well. As a package, you’re probably paying for the craftsmanship and cost of materials for this watch so the included 6R movement is a reasonable trade off.
Summary
The Seiko SPB047 is not as hyped up as other models, such as the Seiko Cocktail Time line, but that should not deter you from considering it. I strongly urge you to see it in the metal before making your purchase decision. The allure of its white enamel dial can only be appreciated up close as these pictures do them no justice.
The Seiko SPB047 may look simple, but to those in the know, it presents a compelling value proposition with other enamel watches costing several times more. However, I wished that this watch was smaller in size — about 38 mm would be the sweet spot and reinforce those vintage vibes. What you get for your money is a classic look and reliable construction with modern materials that will stand the test of time.
