#WhenIn Fiji
Fiji is a fascinating archipelago of over 330 islands clustered in the South Pacific, and only 1/3 of these are permanently inhabited. So, unless you go completely off the reservoir and camp out at one of the uninhabited islands (which also sounds pretty fun), here are some fantastic places in which we were able to accumulate incredible adventures…
Where to stay:
Beqa Lagoon Resort on Beqa Island (I know you want to say [beka], but it’s pronounced [mbeŋɡa]) is a very cosy resort on a small and lush island 10km south of Viti Levu. Staff members will come and pick you up in a boat from Pacific Harbour to take you to this private island (there are only two hotels there, and the other one kinda doesn’t count). It is a great place to be if you are looking for something more authentic, and it is the very best place to be if you want to go shark diving, as the best dives are all around this island, and their own diving crew is awesome. We ended up staying here by accident, because we were turned away from all the fully-booked shark-diving companies out of Pacific Harbour (apparently they book up months in advance — ooops). Since I notoriously do not take no for an answer (unless I want no to be the answer), we called Dieter (the wonderful manager at Beqa Lagoon Resort) and arranged for them to do an unscheduled pick up, so we could go dive with them. After returning from a full day of unbelievable shark dives, Dieter had prepared one of their lovely bungalows for us, because he had calculated that since the boat transfers cost the same as accommodations (which he discounted for us), we should just stay with them for the night, because then he would have to include the transfers for free (Dieter is fantastic, and I would open up a resort just to have him manage it).
The Pearl Resort in Pacific Harbour on Viti Levu is a very nice resort with several restaurants and a spa (in which we had many massages). It is far quieter and more private than many of the larger resorts on Fiji. The rooms are very comfortable and modern, and we had a great view overlooking the water, the small harbor, and even Beqa Island. During the day, it is very nice to stroll down the long, peaceful beach.
Tropica Island Resort on Manolo Island is a calm and romantic place, geared more towards couples (the entire staff stands ready to welcome you with singing and guitar-playing as you arrive). It has a lovely pool and amazing views, especially at sunset. Expect that your main activities here will be to relax by the pool (or go to Cloud Nine and relax), do some kayaking and snorkeling (but not too much, because you have to relax), and eat some good food, and then go relax some more.
How to get around:
The domestic bus we took from Nadi Airport to Pacific Harbour was cheap but also crowded, and the ride was a bit tough for the stomach as there are many twists and turns. So, on the way back to Denarau (to catch the ferry to Manolo), we took a taxi which was slightly better. If you stay at Beqa Lagoon Resort, they will include the boat transfers to and from Pacific Harbour.
Where to eat:
It’s Fiji, so most of the time you are kinda stuck eating what the restaurant(s) at at your hotel(s) can offer (so pick some good hotels). In our case, we had more to choose from at The Pearl Resort, less to choose from at Tropica Island Resort (and that is if you count the wood-fired pizza at Cloud Nine), and nothing to choose from at Beqa Island Resort (you fill out a small paper slip at breakfast for which of two options you want for lunch and dinner), but all the food we had was really good, and we were happily fed the entire time.
What to eat:
Go Fijian with lovo (chicken, fish, taro, cassava, and other vegetables cooked underground) and kokoda (Spanish mackerel cooked in lemon juice and coconut milk).
What to do:
Shark diving by Beqa Island is truly amazing. These shark sites are filled with tiger sharks, lemon sharks, and bull sharks, and it is extremely fascinating to be so close to them, especially during a highly-packed feeding session.
Kayaking and snorkeling. Well, that you can do pretty much everywhere, but we really enjoyed going off on our own near Tropica Island. It was super fun to jump out of the kayak (less fun getting back in) at different locations to discover little nooks with fabulous fish sightings (or just trying to get out of being stuck in random areas, where waters were suddenly very low).
Hang out on Cloud Nine. This is a small, man-made, floating island in the middle of some pristine turquoise waters. You get there by boat and enjoy an afternoon in the sun (or in the water) with drinks and surprisingly-delicious wood-fired pizza.
Just sit and look at magical sunsets…
What not to do:
Don’t stay in Denarau on Viti Levu. It is a large area, 10km west of Nadi Airport (that pretends to be an island, but it’s not an island), full of fancy resorts such as Sheraton, Hilton, Radisson, Westin, Wyndham, Sofitel, etc. You can spend your time at the golf courses, at Hard Rock Cafe, or just simply enjoying the sounds of screaming children by the busy pool areas. It is definitely a place to buy your way through planned activities for a well-manufactured vacation experience. We had a few hours to burn before going to the airport, so we did some resort-hopping. Though the resorts are modern and luxurious, it is a disappointing contrast to the remote, tranquil, and authentic places we had just come from.
