#WhenIn Malmö (& Helsingborg)
Separated by a 40min train ride, Malmö and Helsingborg are the two most urban parts of Skåne (Scania), the southernmost county of Sweden. In many ways, they are typical Scandinavian cities with colorful, century-old buildings, small charming squares, and plenty of coffee shops, but there are certain nooks in both places that just make them that much more special…
How to get around:
The train is very easy and convenient for going between the two cities. Otherwise, walking (as with most Scandinavian cities) is the best way to properly take in the atmosphere.
Where to eat:
Breakfast:
Lilla Kafferosteriet in Malmö is a very cosy cafe (with a homey living room setup) that makes very good coffee and pastries.
Noir Kaffekultur in Malmö is a hip(ster) cafe with excellent coffee and sandwiches. The outdoor seating area is really great when the weather behaves.
Étoile Cafe in Helsingborg is a great place for good coffees, juices, pastries, and Swedish desserts. The cosy seating area in the back lends itself nicely to a relaxing breakfast or brunch.
Lunch:
Njutbar in Malmö is a fantastic little café that serves incredibly good homemade Swedish food as well as great coffee and homemade desserts. Literally everything on the menu is just fantastic (especially the meatballs and lasagna). I imagine that the nice owner has a really awesome grandmother with secret recipes and a magical garden. The place is super cosy and has a warm and homey atmosphere. We stayed for hours enjoying lunch, then dessert, then coffee, and finally Swedish chokladbollar.
Roy’s Mat o Bar in Helsingborg offers a solid Swedish smörgåsbord as well as many other traditional Swedish dishes. It is situated at the end of Kajpromenaden and offers a lovely view, especially when sitting outside in the sun.
Dinner:
Bastard in Malmö is a great evening restaurant, especially if you are in the mood for good burrata, charcuterie, and other small plates. Their cocktails and beers go very well with the food, and the atmosphere is urban and hip.
Sillen & Makrillen in Helsingborg has a fantastic view of the ocean and excellent seafood. It can get quite busy at dinner, so it may be a good idea to make a reservation.
What to eat:
Köttbullar (Swedish meatballs) are of course a must, but a good smörgåsbord (a range of open-faced sandwiches and Swedish delicacies) can also be quite satisfying, and as always, finish off with chokladbollar (Swedish chocolate balls) — the Swedes sure like their balls.
What to do:
Wander around the streets of Malmö. Malmö is a calm city, and it is very nice to take a stroll around and look at the architecture and take in the atmosphere, even on Sundays when everything is closed.
Have a drink at Sky Bar in Malmö. Located at the top of Clarion Hotel, the bar and restaurant (with their giant windows) overlook the city and the Öresund strait. Here you can have some very well-crafted cocktails with stunning views of the Turning Torso as well as the Öresund Bridge.
Stroll around Kärnan and Slottshagen in Helsingborg. Though there is not much left to see of the once much larger Danish fortress, of which Kärnan is just a tower (there is an interesting story behind this that you can read up on), a walk in this area is quite nice and calm, and you can get some pretty great views of the city below as well as Hamlet’s famous castle (Kronborg) in Denmark, just across the water.
Walk Kajpromenaden in Helsingborg. Take a stroll along the water, look at the boats, and find a place with a nice waterfront view from where you can enjoy an ice-cold beer (Roy’s Mat o Bar is located at the end of Kajpromenaden).
What not to do:
Gågaden (the main shopping street) has charming sections in both cities, but don’t spend all your time inside the stores. The atmosphere is found outside on the street or in the cafes, especially on a chilly day.
