#WhenIn Saint Lucia
Saint Lucia is a beautiful, lush, and somewhat secluded island in the Caribbean (definitely more secluded than some of the other popular Caribbean destinations). The abundance of green landscapes with the majestic (Petit and Gros) pitons rising out of the sea create some incredibly gorgeous views, and the fact that it hasn’t been completely overtaken by tourists (yet) make it an ideal place for a tranquil retreat.
Where to stay:
Boucan by Hotel Chocolat in Soufriere is a highly sophisticated property in the hills above Soufriere. It is a large cocoa plantation with a boutique hotel that only has a total of 14 lodges (eight of which are 750-sq-ft “Luxe Lodges” with giant private verandas and open-sky rainforest showers that are very, very amazing), a fantastic restaurant that can make anything out of cocoa, and a very quiet (infinity) pool area overlooking Petit Piton. The staff is very attentive, and the already highly-unique (and cocoa-filled) experience is further enhanced by the many (real) rainforest sounds and peaceful atmosphere.
Ti Kaye Resort in Anse Cochon has a total of 33 cottages arranged around a sloping hill overlooking the pretty Anse Cochon cove. Each cottage feels very private and has a large balcony with a double hammock and a private outdoor garden shower (rather interesting to walk in and through your bathroom to go take a shower in the garden). A few of the cottages also have private outdoor plunge pools, which are perfect to take a dip in during the day (preferably with a glass of wine in hand).
How to get around:
Most people either rent a car (~$65–$100/day) or take taxis around the island. Taxis don’t use meters, and you are quoted a fixed price ahead of time, but rates can be fairly high since things are far apart. We (of course) had to do things differently, so we went by local public bus. We figured it would be an adventure, which it surely was, waiting on the road (indefinitely, since there is no schedule) and waiving down (pretty random) minivans with green “M” license plates that are always full, so you cram yourself into them and roll left and right into the other local passengers, getting to know them (intimately), as the van moves its way around the endless twists and turns (but hey, it was super fun).
Where to eat:
Breakfast:
Boucan by Hotel Chocolat in Soufriere makes an absolutely incredible breakfast and work in cocoa beans and chocolate in ways you can’t even imagine. The ingredients are wonderfully fresh (of course anything cocoa-related comes from their own backyard), and the execution by the kitchen crew is highly competent — oh and the view is phenomenal, s0 before you know it, you’ve sat there for hours, and now it’s lunchtime, so you might as well take a look at the lunch menu…
Lunch:
If you are ever able to detach yourself from the awesome chocolate restaurant, you should venture out to some of the local cafes in town (e.g. in Soufriere, Canaries, Castries, etc.) and try out their local dishes for lunch. It won’t be fancy and extravagant, but it will be authentic and interesting.
Dinner:
Boucan by Hotel Chocolat is a wonderful place for dinner (surprise). The view of the sunset from the giant outdoor patio overlooking Petit Piton is stunning, and the menu is wonderfully creative. People from the other hotels and resorts go out of their way to come here for dinner, so you should still make a reservation even though you are one of the lucky few, who live on the property. The kitchen’s delicious and delicate dishes (all cocoa-infused somehow of course) served in the calm rainforest atmosphere make for a very lovely evening.
Dasheene Restaurant & Bar at Ladera Resort in Soufriere has gorgeous views. The restaurant sits at the edge of the cliff facing Petit Piton, and it is a pretty spectacular experience to watch the sun go down in the horizon, while it vividly changes all the colors in the surrounding landscapes (I honestly don’t remember much about the food here, since I was pretty preoccupied by scenery).
Big Chef Steakhouse in Rodney Bay is where I had the best steak of my life (and I have certainly devoured my fair share of amazing steaks). It makes no sense, I know, but this random steakhouse in Rodney Bay is actually quite famous for its ridiculously good steaks (people boat here from other countries to eat these steaks). If you get a chance to speak to the owner couple, Marc and Rosie, get them to tell you the fascinating story of how they managed to get such amazing meat to their restaurant.
What to eat:
Anything cocoa (from Boucan by Hotel Chocolat). Whether straight-up dark chocolate, hot cocoa, cocoa-infused bread, butter, jam, oatmeal, cocoa martinis, or cocoa-crusted mahi mahi, it is all just fantastic. Cocoa used to be Saint Lucia’s most important export and has greatly influenced the local culture, so whether you eat it (or scrub yourself with it), you have a solid excuse for your Saint Lucian cocoa indulgence.
And if you absolutely must venture out of the cocoa space, the Saint Lucian staple dish is green bananas (or green figs) and salt (cod) fish. This dish, often served with local vegetables, can be easily found at the many local cafes in town.
What to do:
Walk around Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate and pick ripe (yellow) cocoa fruits to taste (one of my favorite fruits as a child when I lived in Tanzania), while watching the plantation crew dry and process the cocoa beans. If you are very interested in the chocolate-making process (I am, of course, more interested in the chocolate-eating process), you can join the “Tree-to-Bar Experience”.
Visit the Soufrier Volcano (Sulphur Springs) in Soufriere. The volcano last erupted over 200 years ago, but due to a weak spot in the crust of the collapsed crater, you are actually able to get into its hot (and very smelly) mud baths. These sulphur springs are supposedly able to detoxify the body and help heal sunburns, eczema, arthritis, sore joints, and many other ailments (I guess it’s true since Richard Branson and Oprah went there). Some even say you will look 12 years younger when you get out of there (and here I thought it was my Asian genes)…
Visit Soufriere, a little town with many charming and colorful old houses, but honestly, I had a funny feeling that the locals did not seem very happy here, or at least they did not seem happy around tourists/strangers. Other than the funky vibe, Soufriere is a great place for a picturesque walk and a cold beer stop.
Visit Castries and meet the locals. Castries is Saint Lucia’s capital and the biggest and busiest city on the island with its many street vendors and small shops. It is a great place to get a feel of the local culture.
Rent a private boat to take you to great snorkeling sites and private beaches. Through Boucan by Hotel Chocolat, you can rent a small private boat with a two-man crew (that also includes bus transfers to and from the pier). It is really wonderful to go around the island by private boat, especially with local guides to show you the best places to snorkel at and the best private beaches to relax at.
Relax on Sugar Beach between Petit Piton and Gros Piton. The nice sandy beaches below Boucan by Hotel Chocolat are hikeable by foot (or you can just take the hotel shuttle), and there are several restaurants there, which belong to the beachside resorts, where you can wine and dine for lunch.
Have a drink and enjoy some spectacular sunsets, whether from your hideaway on the mountain or down by the water.
What not to do:
Don’t expect Saint Lucia to be the typical tourist island with all the typical tourist attractions and conveniences. Many areas (and people), except Castries (that receives quite a lot of cruise ships), are not really used to tourists, and it is not always easy to get around on the island, especially if you don’t have a car and stay at places like Ti Kaye that is rather remote and away from everything (I guess the point is to stay at your resort and relax, but I do so like to explore). To me Saint Lucia’s main draw is its raw and bountiful nature, but some may find it a bit too raw (which actually works perfectly for me).
