#WhenIn Sardinia

July 2021

Yuan Sommer
#WhenIn
Published in
7 min readOct 31, 2021

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Palau to La Maddalena

Driving on scooter to Palau Ferry Terminal and taking the ferry to La Maddalena.

La Maddalena

Scootering around the islands of the Maddalena archipelago in the province of Sassari.

Staying at Grand Hotel Resort Ma&Ma

Upscale Conde Nast resort on La Maddalena with professional service, but has a generic feel, no charming vibe, and disappointing breakfast.

Rifugio Gorropu

Cool agriturismo in the mountains with great views, home-cooked breakfast and dinner, and convenient distance to hiking Gorropu. Not fancy but a nice stay.

Gola di Gorropu

Gorgeous canyons with different levels of hiking trails (red trail requires equipment). Guided tours include transfers to and from Gola di Gorropu (jeep is needed to get to the starting point of the hike) and home-made pecorino and flatbread after the hike.

Cala Gonone

Rent a small private boat for exploring the various coves on your own or join a boat tour from Cala Gonone to Cala Goloritzé, making stops at Grotta del Bue Marino, Cala Luna, Cala Sisine, Cala Esuili, Pools of Venus (swimming from the boat), Grotta del Fico, Cala Mariolu, and Cala dei Gabbiani.

Cala Sisine

Grotta del Bue Marino

Cala Goloritzé

Azienda Agrituristica Sa Mandra

Fantastic place to spend several days, exploring the property, spending time with the farm animals (donkeys, horses, goats, rabbits, and many more), learning to make pecorino with Massimo, taking pasta and malloreddus classes with Mamma Rita, having homemade breakfasts on the porch, enjoying the absolute best and most wonderful dinners in the evening with the famously delicious suckling pig, cooked by their youngest son, going horseback riding at Tres Stelle Mandra (run by their oldest son), scootering to the beach to watch the sunset, — and most of all, spending time with the lovely Sa Mandra family. ❤

Tre Stelle Mandra

Riding to Spiaggia di Porto Ferro at sunrise or sunset and letting the horses walk in the water.

Spiaggia di Porto Ferro

Neptune’s Grotto

Driving to the grotto and walking the 654 steps down to the stalactite cave (must get tickets in advance).

Alghero

Town with shops, restaurants, and bars. Dining at Santa Marì Restaurant.

Stintino

Visiting the coastal town and spending time by the pretty beaches and swimming in the clear waters. Otherwise touristy and not much else to do.

Castelsardo

Picturesque town on the hill.

Capo Testa

Lovely area with clear waters and close to Valle della Luna.

Valle della Luna

Magical place with beautiful rock formations, live music and drums, amazing sunsets, and a gathering place for spiritual people, some of whom live there for days or months in tents or even inside the cliffs.

Olbia

City with many shops and restaurants. Worth taking a boat tour to scout for dolphins.

Grand Hotel President Olbia

Comfortable hotel but no vibe and disappointing breakfast.

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