Tales of Rafting: An AJET Adventure

Joseph Lewis-Hughes
Wide Island View
Published in
6 min readNov 6, 2019
The view from the riverbed beneath Kazurabashi Bridge

The rafting trip took us from Hiroshima to Miyoshi, Tokushima. Our first destination was Happy Raft, situated on the Yoshino River (the cleanest river in Japan). We spent our first day rafting, rowing and endeavoring not to get thrown overboard. Our second day we visited Kazurabashi Bridge and basked in the nature that surrounded us. It was an excellent journey, and an experience I cannot recommend highly enough. What follows is a brief overview of this year’s Rafting Trip.

Arrival: A Hint…

After spending hours in a bus traveling from Hiroshima prefecture to a remote area of Tokushima, the last thing I wanted to do was to ride in another van all the way up to our lodgings. Yet, as soon as the van began to ascend the winding roads of the mountain, my irritation vanished. The darkness surrounding us was broken at brief intervals by the few lights scattered across the valley. Peering over the edge of the road revealed a plummet into blackness. Fear and excitement mingled in the pit of my stomach. It was as though this drive was hinting that our weekend would be one of adventure and thrill.

Day 1: Rafting

It was only in descending the mountain the following morning that the beauty of Tokushima was laid bare before us. Everything was blanketed in a verdant green that elicited a feeling of serenity. The small houses and rice paddies which dotted the mountains only added to a unique atmosphere of isolation rarely felt elsewhere in Japan. Upon arriving at Happy Raft, we could see the tumultuous and dangerous, white rapids of the Yoshino River rushing by below. Yet, the waters always gave away to calm stretches, revealing a deep emerald green river hemmed by slabs of granite and white rock.

We filled out our paperwork (the usual emergency contact and liability forms), after which we were quickly sized up for our wet suits and shoes. We stopped briefly to collect the necessities of rafting — paddles, life-jackets, and helmets — and then we were off. We were given ample opportunity to be captivated by the beauty of our surroundings, as we drove the winding roads to our first rafting trial.

The morning’s run (also dubbed the ‘trial’ or the ‘easy run’ by some of the guides), was a set of four rapids that were not particularly challenging but were useful for learning the ropes. Before starting off we were given simple instructions from our guides. ‘Hang on’ meant hang the heck on to your oar, while using your other hand to hold onto the boat. ‘Get down’ meant crouch in the boat, and try not to capsize. You get the gist. The primary rule was to listen to the guide’s instructions at all times. After a brief test to assess our understanding, it was time to begin.

The first of the rapids came up, and once again fear and excitement mingled in my stomach. A silence broken only by our guide’s occasional instructions descended. Everyone was focused and alert. Each group went through the rushing white water with few difficulties. Everyone was enjoying themselves when one unlucky group got wiped-out. That group just so happened to be mine.

It’s difficult to capture the terror I felt in that moment. We were in the middle of the rapid. Our guide told us to ‘Get Down’, which we did immediately. The next thing I knew, I was underwater, icy rapids threatening to tear me away from the weak hold I had on both my oar and the boat. Water rushed over me, as I screwed my eyes shut against the current. I tried to haul myself closer to the boat, but before I could someone hurtled into me. Then the river had me. The water wrapped its tendrils around me and dragged me down with an unexpected force, and for a second I had no control.

Put your feet up. Get your feet up! GET YOUR FEET UP! I thought, panicked.

Struggling against the current, I tried to maneuver myself so that my chest was towards the sky and my feet were raised. In the process of all this, my foot passed through a wedge in a rock, which tore off one of my boots. I felt myself near the surface, but the rapids kept flowing over my body with an intense power that prevented me from emerging. Eventually I felt the rapids cease, and my head finally broke the surface. I was disoriented. I noticed my raft about fifty meters downstream, with most of the other members already aboard. I looked around, trying to think of what I should do. The first boat that came past beckoned me towards them and hauled me in. I can only imagine how I looked, lying slumped, dazed and speechless in the bottom of their raft. This group was all Japanese, but the guide knew English and made a joke that calmed my anxiety. They returned me to my raft, and both my boot and oar were found by other JETs. The other members from my raft were similarly bedraggled but okay. Nobody was injured. The guides acted quickly and with experience. Everyone was safe.

Despite the newfound anxiety I had about the water, the rest of the morning progressed without incident. A short rest at a jumping rock (which was about 3 meters high) gave everyone the chance to test their mettle and gain some much needed adrenaline.

After the morning run, we all ate simple, yet delicious bagels provided by Happy Raft. The fillings ranged from lettuce, coleslaw, tomatoes, and onions, to tuna, ham, cheese, and the much-adored cream cheese. Hot and cold beverages, including tea and sports drinks, were also available. The hot beverages were especially comforting after the chill of the water.

We started the ten-kilometer trek downriver just below the Happy Raft building. The afternoon was filled with fun activities. We visited another jumping rock (this one about five meters high) where only half were brave — or perhaps foolhardy — enough to jump. We swam in pristine waters as well as trying ‘Rapid Surfing’ which involved maneuvering the raft to stay within the rapids for as long as possible. And no small repertoire of other activities that our guides gleefully allowed us to try — they usually ended in a flipped raft.

The quiet moments were filled with watching the river pass by and joking with our raft groups. We were exhausted and battered yet content as we returned to our lodgings. Once there, some of us had an enjoyable afternoon admiring our view of the mountainside, while some of us had a fun (or miserable) afternoon watching Ireland lose the rugby against Japan.

Day 2: Kazurabashi Bridge and Return

We awoke the following day and ate a hurried breakfast before returning to the vans. We descended the mountain one final time and returned to the coach. Our final destination was Kazurabashi Bridge, a suspension bridge made mostly of vines and wood. It overlooked a meandering river that only came up to waist height and was completely clear. The river was framed by mountains, and in its bed was a motley of river stones.

The bridge itself appeared sturdy from afar. But when viewed up close, we could see that large gaps existed between each plank along the bottom of the bridge. As we crossed the bridge, these gaps seemingly grew larger, as if to emphasize the tremendous drop below us. It seemed that almost everyone had their heads down as they held onto the vine-woven railing. But if you looked up, the entire valley could be seen, with the warm green of sunlit leaves and the impossibly blue sky, contrasting with cool shaded trees and the cold clean colours of the river and riverbed. After crossing, we spent time on the river bank, skipping stones, and enjoying our last moments in Tokushima. We eventually returned to the bus, but not before stopping to grab omiyage on our way.

Summary

The AJET rafting trip was a truly memorable experience. For those who went I’m certain it was a thoroughly enjoyable adventure. For me, it was also invigorating. It’s not often we get to experience raw nature first-hand, surrounded by pristine landscape. I would highly recommend the rafting experience to any Hiroshima JET, or anyone in general really. While you should expect to gain a few bruises, you will also gain a weekend away from the cities, surrounded by fresh air and amazing people. If you get the chance to go in the future, I highly encourage you to do so. You definitely won’t regret it.

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