Yamaguchi: Inari Shrines
Today I’d like to introduce to you two Inari shrines in Yamaguchi. The first, you may have already heard of, is called Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Located in Nagato, Yamaguchi on a cliff by the sea, this shrine is a popular destination for its beautiful views of both the shrine and the ocean.
Getting here can be a bit difficult, and if you’re driving please be careful. Some of the roads leading up to the shrine are so narrow, you will have to pull over to let the other lane pass. But once you get there, and park in the car park provided, you won’t regret it. Please note, parking on the side of the road is strictly prohibited.
Built in 1955, it is said that a fox spirit visited a local resident and asked him to build a shrine on the cliffs where he went fishing. Beneath the shrine, a tunnel of 123 torii gates was also built, including some taken from its sister shrine; Daikondani Inari, located in Shimane.
During my visit, walking through this tunnel of torii made me feel as though I were a character in a movie. I’ll admit, Memoirs of a Geisha did come to mind as I was walking through, though of course that was set in Kyoto, not Yamaguchi. Still, being surrounded by red with the sun streaming through, made for a beautiful sight. Especially with glimpses of the ocean as you make your way through.
As I write this, I realise I probably did the opposite of what you’re supposed to do. At the very bottom of the torii gates, there is an offertory box attached to the very first gate. You must try and throw your donation into the box, just watch out for other people. If you make it, your wish will come true. Naturally, I did the complete opposite. I started at the top and made my way down. Word of warning, it does get a little steep in places and there are some stairs. So be careful. But still, it was a great experience and one I highly recommend.
From my house, it took 2 hours 45 minutes to drive there. Though this would vary depending on where you start from. If you can, I do recommend driving, or carpooling, as getting there by public transport is difficult. But you do have the option of travelling by train and taxi, if necessary. Please note, there is a fee for the car park.
Public Transport:
Take the Shinkansen to Hakata and get off at Asa station. Get the local train to Mine but get off at Magatoshi, then take another local train (Shimonoseki), but get off at Nagato-furuichi station. From there, it’s a 20 minute taxi ride. In total, it’ll take you about 2 hours 30 minutes.
Address:
〒759–4712 山口県長門市油谷津黄４９８
Fukutoku Inari Shrine
The second shrine, you may not have heard of. Though out of the two, this one is my favourite. It’s called Fukutoku Inari Shrine and is located in Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi, about a 50 minute drive from Motonosumi Inari Shrine.
Like Motonosumi Inari Shrine, Fukutoku Inari Shrine is located on a cliff by the ocean. But in my experience, fewer people are aware of this shrine so it is much easier to visit. When I arrived, unlike my 40 minute wait to get into Motonosumi, I was able to park straight away without any waiting. What’s more, parking was free.
At the very entrance of the shrine, make sure to get a shot of the giant torii gate that frames the temple behind it. With its combination of blue roofs, red torii and white walls, it’s a visually stunning combination. Say a greeting to the fox spirits guarding the gate, before entering the yard. As with any other temple, you can buy charms, get your fortune and say a prayer or two. I also recommend climbing the stairs to the top, to get the best view of both the temple and the ocean.
Once you’ve had your fill of the temple, be sure to turn right and head towards the torii gates. Much like Motonosumi, you can walk through a tunnel of torii and end up on a cliff overlooking the ocean. But while the tunnel at Motonosumi is out in the open, allowing you to observe the ocean as you walk through, Fukutoku’s tunnel is surrounded by trees, providing a more peaceful and secluded experience. With 1000 torii gates, Fukutoku’s torii tunnel reminded me of the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto. While visiting Motonosumi Inari Shrine, I have to admit I was disappointed that the torii tunnel was so short. But I had no such complaints about Fukutoku. And of course, once you reach the end of the tunnel you will find yourself overlooking the ocean, with a small shrine to your right guarded by two fox statues. Be sure to say hi and leave an offering before you return.
Public Transport:
Fukutoku Inari Shrine is easier to get to by public transport than Motonosumi Inari Shrine.
Take the Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen from Hiroshima Station to Shin-Shimonoseki Station. Get the 301 bus to Ayaragi (綾羅木) and walk to Ayaragi Station. Take the local train to Kogushi Station and change trains to the local train bound for Nagato City. Get off at Yutama Station and from there it’s about a 20 minute walk. In total, it’ll take about 2 hours 30 minutes.
By Driving:
Put the address below into google maps, or whatever you use. There is a free car park onsite.
Address:
〒759–6303 山口県下関市豊浦町大字宇賀２９６０−１
Hope you enjoy it!
Written by Rachel Fahey
