Wildlife near water

Variety in the Zambezi valley

Ronald Smit
Wildlife Trekker
6 min readJun 12, 2022

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A small herd of impala on the Zimbabwean bank of the Zambezi river. © Ron Smit, June 2022

I’ve already written in another publication about our recent weekend away from Lusaka, Zambia, camping on the banks of the Zambezi river. The link to that story is here:

But in this story, I would like to focus on the different varieties of wildlife seen, mostly from the comfort (and safety!) of the boat operated by Woods Camp and adjoining Muchichili Safari House.

Those little herds of impala, as seen in my header photograph, don’t pose any threat. But other animals do. For instance, hippos.

A little pod of hippos checking us out on the boat. © Ron Smit, June 2022

These animals may appear large and sluggish, just slacking off and chilling out in the water, but that would be the wrong impression. Well, they are large, and perhaps they are just chilling there, but they are certainly not sluggish! This species is responsible for more deaths in Africa than any other animal. Since they hang out in rivers, in the shallower parts, the interaction with humans who go fishing or washing or fetching water, is ... tricky.

A couple of years ago, we went canoeing on another spot of this same river and were charged by a hippo. Very … exciting. Talking about that event is much more fun than the actual experience was.

Hippos are grazers, they get out of the water, mostly at night, to chew grass on the river banks and beyond. So those massive teeth that they carry are not for eating, not for show, but for fighting. They are pretty territorial, and the bulls defend their specific part of the river.

Fun fact: the green grass on campsites is very popular for midnight feasting by hippos. Also if said grass is between your sleeping spot and the toilet…

This bull had spotted a hippo from another pod, getting too close to his territory. So he set off at an impressive pace, running upstream along the riverbed, to chase away the intruder. Giving us the evil eye at the same time. I guess they are pretty used to boats and tourists, but it’s a careful and uneasy coexistence. © Ron Smit, June 2022

The welcome sign at Woods Camp had also cautioned against crocodiles, and so I should show some evidence of these prehistoric creatures. We saw quite a few crocs sunning themselves on the sandbank, and saw one monster of maybe 3 metres long, leap into the water when our boat got close. Too fast to photograph, but I did get a picture of another one, slightly smaller.

Nile Crocodile, probably about 2 metres long, just minding his (or her?) own business, being examined by a Yellow-billed Stork. © Ron Smit, June 2022

I have no idea whether that stork was planning anything, or even thinking at all. At one point, he edged a little closer to the croc, to get a better look at what death looks like?

Yellow-billed Stork. © Ron Smit, 2022

Now you might wonder what I’m trying to show with my next photograph, but the clues are already clear from the previous two.

Riverbank, with a rear-end view of an airborne stork. The crocodile had literally departed in a cloud of dust. Probably not scared off by the stork, but I guess we were getting too close with the boat. © Ron Smit, June 2022

While we are on the topic of birds, when you are near any body of water, there is always a variety of birds to be seen and heard. But I struggle to photograph them. I could blame my camera gear, so yeah, let’s do that. I use my phone, a Samsung Galaxy S9 and my little Sony DSC-HX99 compact, fixed-lens camera. The latter makes slightly better pictures, but has an irritating menu system, so that I am usually working on the “auto” setting, which is a pity.

Anyway, I digress. Something about the birds seen:

African Fish Eagle, perched on a riverside treetop. © Ron Smit, June 2022

The African Fish Eagle, with its almost haunting, far-reaching cry, is for me the iconic African bird. And features on the Zambian flag, too.

Zambian national flag, with fish eagle. Source: Wikipedia.
A pair of Egyptian Geese. Perhaps they’d had words, because they seemed to be avoiding eye contact. © Ron Smit, June 2022

Egyptian geese can be found all over sub-Saharan Africa, but also as far North as, well, Egypt. I’ve seen that they are not very popular in many housing estates near water (they tend to shit everywhere, on patios and pavements…) but here they were at least in their own element.

However, the most remarkable birds on this trip, were the White-fronted Bee-eaters that build their nesting sites into the eroded riverbanks of the Zambezi.

Typical nesting site for a colony of White-fronted Bee-eaters. Those holes in the bank apparently extend for more than a metre and there is a rounded nest at the back, lined with the exoskeletons of dead insects, to serve as bedding for the chicks. I’m glad I’m not a bird. © Ron Smit, June 2022
A close-up showing the remarkable colouring of these birds. © Ron Smit, June 2022
Not my best shot of a couple of elephants, but I can blame the failing light and the fact that we were a few metres away in a moving boat. Or maybe just not enough care taken with focusing. © Ron Smit, June 2022

Back at the campsite, we’d seen a few examples of the Water Monitor Lizard, also known as the Nile Monitor. They seemed to be equally at home on the bank, and in the water.

Water Monitor Lizard, a decent specimen of maybe a metre long, slipping away from us at the campsite. © Ron Smit, June 2022

I can’t close this story without one comment about the most dangerous of all animals: man. (And women too, I guess, let’s be gender-sensitive.)

A few specimens of homo sapiens showing typical behaviour after sundowner drinks and snacks on an island. Yours truly in the brown hat. Identity of the others not disclosed, in order to protect the innocent. © Ron Smit, June 2022. Photograph by Brown, our very able guide and boat captain, using my phone.

But jokes aside, human-animal interaction is a problem. Campsites and lodges in Zambia generally do an excellent job at maintaining the necessary distance between animals and human visitors. And hunting is (at least nominally) prohibited in the Game Management Areas surrounding the National Parks. But in those GMAs there are villages and farms, people moving about. In the same areas, animals need to be able to eat, access the river, etc.

And so incidents do occur from time to time. A day before we arrived in this area for our weekend, a villager had been killed by an elephant. The person (who was apparently hard of hearing) had managed to get in the way of an elephant on the way to the river. Tempers were high in the villages, and there were plans to hunt that particular elephant and kills it. No success so far, which I believe is fortunate. Elephants do not easily become “rogue killers” of humans and in any case, it is their space too.

At the same time, villagers who have lived somewhere for generations, also need to have their homes and farms protected. It’s a problem that is likely to get worse as our human population numbers increase.

Anyway, I don’t want to end the story on such a negative tone, so here’s a nice sunset image. (Trees are also wildlife.)

Sunset over the Zambezi River, on the way back to camp. © Ron Smit, June 2022

If you like my stories about wildlife, or how we got to see them, do let me know. Comments about my photography are also welcome. Also, whether I write too much, or too little.

And do let us know about wildlife in your own part of the world!

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Ronald Smit
Wildlife Trekker

Husband, father, geologist, consultant. I love travelling and learning, sharing feelings about all that, sometimes funny, always positive.