Don’t Blame Your Next-Morning Headache on Sulfites
Sulfites really get a bad rap. Often used in foodstuffs as a preservative, sulfites can be found in canned tuna, dried apricots, cheeses, deli meats, jam, and other processed foods — and often in much larger quantities than found in a standard bottle of wine. Sulfites are antioxidants; that is, they slow down the aging and spoiling effects of oxygen (the culprit at play when your cut fruit turns brown). As you’ve probably experienced if you’ve ever left a bottle of wine open for too long, oxygen will eventually spoil your delicious wine into something flat, borderline vinegary, and decidedly not delicious.
Sulfites in wine are measures in parts per million, or ppm. If a wine has more than 10ppm (all wines do), the label must contain the statement “contains sulfites,” directly mainly at the very small percentage of the population who suffer from a legitimate sulfite allergy.
Sulfur dioxide (SO2) is a natural byproduct of fermentation, so a wine that is “sulfite free” is not possible. However, it is true that biodynamic or little-interventionist winemakers choose to add little additional sulfites to their wines. To be labeled as organic in the United States, winemakers cannot add any additional sulfites at all (this equates to around 10ppm per bottle), whereas in Europe, organic wines can contain up to 100ppm sulfites.
Sulfites often get blamed for “red wine headaches,” but many white table wines actually have more sulfites than red wines. Due to preservative effects, sulfites are typically added in larger quantities to lesser-quality, bulk wines. This doesn’t mean you have to break the bank or always search for organic or biodynamic stamps on every wine label; many winemakers make value wines with a little-intervention preference, even if they do not have official organic or biodynamic certifications. Strike up a conversation with the wine store staff when in doubt.
Some people really do have sulfite sensitivity, but the percentage is pretty low. If you’re on a quest to eliminate sulfites, perhaps start with cutting out processed foods before pointing the pitchfork at wine.
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