Red Wine with Meat, White Wine with Fish Wine Rules: Take ’em or Break ’em?
There seems to be a lot of should and should not when it comes to wine. The first rule should always be this: if you like it, drink it. That said, there are some common wine myths and so-called rules that are hard to ignore (for regular and less-frequent wine drinkers alike). Is there any validity to them? Each month we’ll tackle a new rule, chat with local wine professionals and share opinions on some of the most common wine rules out there — will we take them or break them?
The Rule: Pair red wine with meat and white wine with fish.
This month I chatted with Rebekah Turpin, CS, CSW, who is the Sommelier at Culina a modern Italian restaurant in the Four Seasons Los Angeles, California. Rebekah gives us the insider’s scoop on whether this is a wine rule she takes or breaks in the restaurant.
This is a “wine rule” you learn well as a sommelier. That is to say, you learn it well and then have fun breaking it. Generally speaking, many white wines are best suited for lighter fish dishes and red wines for heavier meat dishes; however, I do think there is a large grey area where it’s fun to step outside the box and mix it up. As a sommelier, there are many details to think about when creating food and wine pairings: the spices in the food, tannin, acidity, residual sugar, to name a few. When making one seemingly simple food-and-wine pairing, my mind grazes over hundreds of wines from around the world, looking for that perfect complement and balance to enhance both the food and the wine. It is a very personalized experience.
One of my all-time favorite pairings, and one that I enjoy almost weekly, is salmon with Pinot Noir. Salmon is a meatier, flavorful fish that could overpower and totally clash with lighter white wines like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc. One of the things I always try to keep in mind with food and wine pairings is the weight of the food meeting the weight of the wine; you don’t want one to outshine the other, but rather they should complement and enhance each other. Recently, I have been impressed with the quality of Pinot Noirs coming from the Santa Barbara region of California. Many producers are focusing on producing more refined, elegantly styled Pinot Noirs with higher acidity and a leaner body. I find these purer styles to be the best suited when pairing with food, especially salmon.
Similarly, when it comes to red wine pairings with meat, there are exceptions, especially when it comes to spicy dishes. A spicy Thai meat dish would be beautifully balanced with an off-dry German Riesling. Pairing red wines with spicy dishes, especially tannic red wines, can exaggerate both the spiciness in the food and the tannins in the wine. If you have not yet tried such a pairing, trust me: it is not a great experience. Instead, a wine with a touch of sweetness will soften the spiciness of the food.
Lighter meats such as turkey and chicken can always be paired well with full-bodied whites like Chardonnays, Viogniers, and Gewürztraminers. With holiday feasts around the corner, I have Gewürztraminers on my mind as I love pairing them with turkey and other festive holiday dishes. I find their rich body, aromatic bouquet, and touch of spice add liveliness to any dinner!
When it comes down to it, there are many times that I do follow this wine rule, but I think as sommeliers, it’s our job to be constantly pushing the limits and creating interesting, unexpected pairings for our guests. That’s what it’s really all about, whether you’re following the rules or breaking them: creating an unforgettable food and wine experience that enhances both the food and the wine.
The Verdict? ...it’s a draw! There’s truth to the rule, but don’t be afraid to break it; you might just discover something delicious.
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