Ha Giang and the Extreme North Loop
Ha Giang is a city complete with all the classic features of a Vietnamese town. Billiards hall, tons of karaoke plenty of rice and pho eateries and lots of cafes.
We stayed two nights so we had the rare luxury of not having to pack up and strap on. I took myself off to a coffee shop and caught up with some writing.
It’s hard work all this writing stuff. I recently got an email letting me know I am on a 16-week writing streak.
Who would have thought it?
Me and writing are not something that traditionally gets along.
The Cake
We also bought a cake.
These bakeries are all across Vietnam and have been drawing us in with the promise of a delicious Banh My — sandwich. When instead they just sell Banh Mi — cake. At least I think it’s that way round, it can get very confusing.
The cake shops had tricked us too many times, so this time we just bought one instead.
I have to say they know how to sell a cake here. It came with a big knife, paper plates and a load of candles. The perfect birthday bundle.
Made us pretty popular at the hostel too.
We also found a decent billiards hall, tucked away in someone’s house. It was massive and empty with the cheapest beer we have drunk all trip. Around 30p for a big bottle of Hanoi, nice.
Oh and we trekked up a lot of steps with the promise of stunning views over the city.
The Loop
So after our day of leisure, we set off again.
Our first day was a gentle three-hour ride to Yen Minh. This gave us plenty of time to explore and take in the scenery.
We visited another cave.
More impressive was this.
The remains of a bee hive I think.
Throughout the day we passed and repassed a group of cyclists biking the route. They were doing a two-week biking trip around the north. They said they averaged 100km a day. Very impressive.
Ha Giang province is home to a GeoPark, only the second in Asia I believe.
We ended the day at a homestay recommended by our hostel in Ha Giang. At a price of just over two pounds, it was a bargain.
It was slightly out of town, but with a lovely family as our host caring for all our needs that was irrelevant. They served up a delicious family dinner and were well stocked with beers.
It acted as a meeting point for other motorcyclists doing the loop.
The secret is certainly out. Ha Giang loop is getting more popular and with good reason. Even if you don’t have your own motorcycle it is easy to rent one in Ha Giang for a few days and drop it off at the end.
Our second day was a big one. Big and stunning.
We got a dose of history in. Visiting a “palace” built by the French to appease the king of the hill tribes in the area.
I had no idea the French made it this far north.
I got this picture which I really like.
Then we conquered their north pole.
And rode the pièce de résistance of the whole loop. The Mã Pí Lèng Pass connecting Dong Van to Meo Vac.
Wow. Mind blown.
It was so nice we made sure we would do it twice.
Looping back round to Dong Van along some of the less traveled paths in the center of Ha Giang.
We stayed in the Lam Tung Hotel, our best yet. For a very reasonable price. Check it out if you are ever in Dong Van.
The prices for all these hotels are very negotiable. They don’t want empty rooms. We tended to get around 100 000 of every time.
We saw more evidence of the interesting historical past that this area clearly has. Beautifully constructed Chinese buildings make up the old quarter of Dong Van. We went for coffee in one.
Our final day in Ha Giang we rode from Dong Van to Bao Lac.
Unfortunately, we woke up to rain and mist. This made the pass unrecognizable.
Changing this …
Into this …
It made it eery.
Although I would have been gutted if I hadn’t seen it in all it’s glory the previous day.
While it didn’t really rain the air was wet.
Striking Green
Ha Giang was covered in hemp. Once you knew what to look for it was everywhere.
All over.
Life on the edge.
We rode past many isolated desolate places. The fact that people manage to eek out a living in this barren landscape is a great testament to humanities ability to adapt and survive.
I loved seeing the small wooden houses. Standing on there own or in small clusters.
A tough, challenging life. But the people who live here were some of the loveliest people we have met.
Full of smiles and warmth.
I think they are happy. It was great to get a glimpse into their lives, however fleeting it was.
Ha Giang was amazing. A must do for anyone visiting Vietnam. Next, we headed into the Cao Bang province. Into the sunshine — it had been a while.
