Sapa
We spent two nights Sapa. A misty, freezing town at the top of a mountain. This small town used to be a hill station for the French but has been transformed into the tourism epicenter of northern Vietnam.
Unfortunately best of this town is behind it. Especially for the backpacker.
GoSapa hostel proved the point. No vibe. No people. Not very much of anything good apart from comfy beds with a fat duvet.
We originally planned to head to a hostel out of town, My Tra homestay in Ta Van minority village. Unfortunately, it was gone five by the time we arrived in Sapa and this was a good hour more on the road. I was far too cold and tired for that.
Annoyingly since Sapa, we have heard a couple of people say My Tra was awesome. A shame we missed out here, but you can’t win them all.
Staying in Sapa did come with its benefits. The main one being this a new bar off the main tourist area called Turning In.
The bar had a nice feminine touch. A spotless toilet — complete with personal hand towels, pink drapes, fairy lights. The works. Best of all though it had a brand spanking new pool table.
The pool table and tasty nibbles that came with each beer were enough to make us regulars for our short stay in Sapa.
Sapa is famous for fantastic views of the layers of rice paddies sculpted into the surrounding valleys. Unfortunately, our views were mostly like this.
The fog was thick, and often present. Obscuring everything from view.
We spent our one full day exploring the valley on our bikes. The roads around here were a potholed mess. It kept you on your toes.
Venturing down into the valley did give us a glimpse of the views Sapa is so renowned for.
The valley, and indeed much of the north is home to many ethnic minorities. Dao, Giay and H’mong were the hill tribes we met. Although there are many more.
These friendly, happy people brighten up the streets with their colourful clothing unique to their tribe. They wear this clothing with obvious pride.
Some very fashionable attire.
We spent most of the day in Ta Van village where a lovely Dao lady, called Fay although I am sure that’s not how you spell it, gave us a tour of the area. Her English was impeccable and she answered all our many questions.
Like, do the different tribes get along? She said no I think.
Her knowledge of the area was incredible. She knew all the plants, what they were for.
Like indigo for dying.
Mosquito repellant plants. She knew it all. Clearly, a woman who knew how to live off the land.
She explained how they built their houses. Told us that each town had a leader. We learned a lot.
She even showed us the green. It was just on the side of the road, hiding in plain sight. She explained what she uses it for and showed us some clothes made out of it.
Crazy to think that a plant that grows on every continent but Antarctica is illegal. This versatile, fast-growing plant clearly has so many uses and has the potential to have a lot more.
I was also pleased to find out that she likes tourism and the benefits she believes it has brought her village. She told us how much better off financially they were and how all the children now go to school and learn English. She was very positive about it all.
I know it is only one person but it was great to hear about the good side to tourism. During my trip, I have become somewhat pessimistic about it’s benefits to the local population.
This Dzao lady showed us a great kindness and always had a smile on her face. She was obviously very happy and enjoyed showing her way of life with anyone interested.
We bought her a coffee after as a thank you. Here we all are.
Oh and that is my bad boy coat that I picked up in Sapa. A fake north face for a tenner.
Waterproof, windproof and warm. It has been a lifesaver during my trip into the far north.
Sapa was good but way too cold really. Too cold and too foggy. It is hard to do a lot of the activities here when the weather is so miserable. But we did find the wild Tai Ma, even if it wasn’t the fields we had hoped for. So that’s a plus.
Sapa is also an area of the north heavily saturated with tourism. This undoubtedly waters down some of the authenticity of the place.
Tourism has turned the tribes’ people into savvy businessmen and women. Resulting in a constant barrage of people asking you to buy their goods. But this happens everywhere there is major tourism. At least in Sapa they do it with a warm friendly attitude and a smile on their face.
Next, we headed on another big detour. Following the borders and backroads to Ha Giang as described by Vietnam Coracle. Another wonderful ride.
Also, Happy Birthday Grandad if your reading this. Have a great day :)
