The Back Road To Ha Giang
Another three days in the saddle. Another big detour. Another cracking landscape to oggle at.
We followed the Vietnam Coracle route for this journey. A route that hugs the Chinese border and winds up and down mountains.
Sapa to Bac Ha
This time the first day was the best. Beautiful road. Amazing views. Perfect weather.
Although the first day started pretty badly. A trip to the mechanic. The run of form we had been having was well and truly over. I was having electric issues and got a new battery which I am not sure I needed. Doug had his fuel pump replaced.
Then 10 minutes and a minor crash later, I had to replace my brake pad. While trying to catch Doug up to let him know my brakes were f**ked I failed to stop in time. So I crashed into the side of Doug’s bike. Bringing us both tumbling over. Nightmare. Fortunately, both us and the bikes were fine. My new coat saved me from what would have been a nasty case of road rash.
Only after replacing it did I realise how bad my brakes were. I should have had them replaced a long time ago.
The mechanic also raised another problem that he spotted, as is often the case when a mechanic looks over our decaying bikes. My engine casing had a big hole in it. So that got replaced too.
Another pricey day of repairs. Bleeding me dry this bloody bike.
But this was still a top day despite all the issues. Up with the best of them.
We also got our first glimpse of China which was pretty cool.
And I got a nice action shot of Doug.
We arrived in the market town of Bac Ha just before the sun went down.
Bac Ha to Xin Man
After a terrible Pho for breakfast, we set off on the next leg.
The road quality deteriorated as soon as we entered Ha Giang province.
As did the weather.
This day included a huge climb up a mountain.
But what goes us must come down.
Down into a picturesque valley full of rice terraces in various stages of cultivation.
And we got our first and only bike picture together.
It was Saturday when we arrived in the town of Xin Man.
Vietnamese are always happy to share their table with you. While the language barrier is certainly there, they are always a good crack.
We tried some questionable local delicacy.
Xin Man to Ha Giang
Sunday morning in all these little towns is market day. The local hill tribes from the surrounding area all converge on these markets to sell their produce and stock up on supplies for the following week.
It was a colourful array of finely dressed tribes people.
Although I didn’t get much in the way of good snaps. I always feel rude, I wouldn’t want some random white dude taking photos of me if I were them.
It was a very local affair. None of the usual tourist bullshit.
The third day had more difficult roads.
The roads themselves are good, just under constant barrage of rock and mudslides from the mountains they traverse.
We managed to successfully negotiate all the obstacles thrown at us. And were rewarded with more cracking views.
The final hour or so of the journey was back on a proper road.
Wide, relatively straight and so smooth. After nearly two full days of bumby windy mountain roads it was a relief.
Dangers of the mountain
These thin windy mountain roads come with some challenges.
The terrain and road obstacles mean you always have to be on the ball.
But worse are the trucks. While there aren’t many you are bound to encounter some. These beasts take up easily 80% of the road so overtaking them is tough. You need to wait for the opportune moment.
Or if they are coming from the opposite direction they can run you off the road. It happened to Doug. If they take a corner wide, it’s your job to get out of their way. They really don’t care.
Best advice is just to take it slow and be alert.
We did arrive safely in Ha Giang city though, where we were both looking forward to a well-earned rest day after three days of solid riding.
Then it‘s on to the Extreme North Loop through some even more stunning landscapes.
