Meet the Magdalens, Canada’s Most Idyllic Islands
Go for the locals’ stories of long-ago shipwrecks. Stay for the incredible sense of belonging
[Initially published on Passport2017.ca on May 29, 2017]
Unbeknownst to many, one of the world’s most serene and picturesque vacation spots is right here at home, on a string of wind-swept red dirt islands in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Located some 100-odd kilometres north of Prince Edward Island, Quebec’s Magdalen Islands — Îles de la Madeleine in French — welcome scores of tourists every summer, from families looking for some downtime to painters and sketchers aiming to capture the islands’ scenic beauty on canvas.
Outdoor adventures (hiking, cycling, sea kayaking, kite-surfing), observation (birds in the summer, Greenland seals in the winter), sightseeing (parks, reserves and anywhere between 500 and 1,000 shipwrecks), arts and crafts and good fare are all huge draws to the archipelago’s main islands. But ask any visitor what makes the islands truly special and they’re likely to blurt out the same answer: the Madelinots, which is what the locals are called. The 12,000 (or so) islanders indeed have a reputation for being some of the warmest, most welcoming people in the country — hard not to be when they live in such an idyllic place.
And it turns out that the Madelinots’ history is every bit as diverse and interesting as they are welcoming to visitors. They were historically divided in French and English villages until roads connected their islands, and a subset of English-speaking islanders are themselves unique among their linguistic community: they’re descendants of shipwreck survivors, as reported by the BBC in a very interesting portrait of the group.
The waters around the Magdalen Islands can be treacherous and the weather rapidly changing — 48 ships once sank during a single storm. Navigation was especially treacherous during the 18th and 19th centuries, when there was no lighthouse to guide sailors. While some survivors carried on after being rescued from downed ships, others decided to stay and make the islands their new home, often building houses and churches with wood recuperated from the wreckages. Today, their descendants make up one of the most unique and tightly knit groups in the country. “We’re such a small community, probably almost everybody can trace themselves back to at least one person who came here by shipwreck,” Nancy Clarke, a resident of the Magdalen Islands, told the BBC. “These islands are home. I honestly tried to shake this place off of me so many times in my life and I can’t. I keep coming back.”
Driving along the islands, one can note subtle differences in how French and English Madelinots live. The French, for instance, usually paint their houses in bright hues, while the English opt for shades of white and grey. The French greet each other with hugs and kisses; the English, according to Clark, are more the “‘nod your head’ type of people.”
There are hardly better ways to witness the cultural differences between the Magdalen Islands’ communities — and to mingle with friendly Madelinots eager to share their stories — than with a good old road trip along the 199, which connects all but one of the eight main islands. Luckily, Quebec Maritime has figured out the optimal itinerary for neophytes, which covers all of the archipelago’s unique features. Before you go, be sure to check out the #fousdesiles feed on Instagram to discover the awe-inspiring vistas awaiting you. And fret not: The ferries to and from the islands are now perfectly safe.
