Travel. Peru. Sacred Valley. South America.
Hidden Gems in Peru’s Sacred Valley
From Pisac to Ollantaytambo.
I have spent a total of eight months in Peru and have not yet visited Machu Picchu.
Usually, when I tell someone that I have spent a lot of time in Peru, the first thing out of their mouth is “Machu Picchu.” And I cannot figure out why. Because…outside of Machu Picchu is a wonderful place called the Sacred Valley. Most visitors do take a cursory glance at the Sacred Valley — going to Pisac and Ollaytantambo, and maybe Moray. But it is worth taking a little extra time to get off the beaten tourist track and soak up the culture, beauty, and hospitality of this unique area.
Awana Kancha
Awana Kancha is the camelid interpretation center and museum. They have lots of friendly alpacas and llamas as well as a few guanacos and vicuna. This museum is only a few years old, and it has some well-curated exhibits that explain how the lives of humans and camelids are intertwined in the cultures of the Andes — through history (for over 5000 years!) — in their religion, food, clothing, economy, and cultural traditions. I found it fascinating.
Outside, they have demonstrations of dyeing, spinning, and weaving.
I tend to stay out of museum gift shops. But the one at Awana Kancha is like a museum itself. They have some of the most beautiful woven rugs that I have ever seen. Some traditional and some very modern. It is worth a look.
Read more: Awana Kancha
Apulaya Center for Andean Culture
The Apulaya Center in Calca offers hands-on workshops (not just demonstrations) in Andean music, weaving, Andean knitting, Quechua language, religion, and much more. I had an opportunity to take a half-day natural dyeing workshop with them and brought home some lovely yarn.
Workshop schedules vary and may last a half-day to a week. If you want to take advantage of one of Apulaya’s learning opportunities, it is important to contact them well in advance of your visit to see what they will be offering.
Read more: Study abroad programs, Cusco — Sacred Valley of the Incas
Inkary Museum
There were eight cultures that pre-dated the Incas in the Andes. This is another fairly-new museum. The realistic life-size dioramas take you back in time to each era beginning more than 4,000 years ago. (The Incas did not appear until about 600 years ago.) It is a great way to learn the deep history of this culture.
The museum is located just outside Calca on the highway.
Read more: Museo Inkariy
Media Luna Cooperative
This was a lucky find on my part the first time I visited Peru. Media Luna is a village cooperative that provides half- and full-day experiences that includes a tour to the Salineras with a salt farmer.
Then after a traditional lunch in the village, you are treated to cultural demonstrations where you learn about medicinal plants, how chicha is made, rearing guinea pigs, and weaving and dyeing.
Prices for visiting Media Luna are very reasonable. The money stays with the local cooperative. So it is a great way to tour sustainably.
Read more: Media Luna Tourism Circuit
Pinkuylluna
The village of Ollantaytambo is about as full of tourists as Pisac. And for good reason, it is a quaint and sweet little town. There are some good places to eat and if you go there when there are fewer tourists (like early in the morning before the busloads arrive), it can be really interesting just to walk around.
Some of the irrigation canals have been here — and in use — for hundreds of years.
The main temple and fortress at Ollantaytambo is filled with tourists and can be worth a visit. If you arrive early in the morning, you may be able to avoid the masses before the busses arrive.
But, there are also some interesting ruins across the valley from the temple. These are the Pinkuylluna–ruins of the storehouses for grain. The site was chosen because of the dryness and wind. The buildings were built to gain the maximum ventilation. It is a fairly steep, but short, hike up to the ruins. But it is interesting to visit and has few tourists. As you begin your climb, usually there are some guides for hire at the bottom of the hill. And you get a good view of the temple on the other side of the valley.
Choco Museum
Also in Ollantaytambo is a small chocolate museum. Peru is second in the world in the amount of organic cacao produced annually. This free museum shows the history of cacao and chocolate and offers workshops so you can learn how make chocolate from cacao beans.
Learn more at www.chocomuseo.com/peru/ollantaytambo
If you would like to explore more about Peru’s production of organic cacao and coffee, contact Abel Gutierrez Sallo. He is a knowledgeable guide who specializes in cultural experiences.
You can read about my trip to organic farms in my post, From Coca to Coffee and Cacao. (Abel’s website, ChocoExpedition.com has not been available during the Covid pandemic, but I hope to see it up again soon. In the meantime, you can contact him directly here.)
Awamaki
Ollantaytambo is also the headquarters of an organization called Awamaki. (You can find their shop near the Choco Museum.) They provide opportunities for the Quechua weavers of the area to earn a better living as they engage in their weaving and spinning art. The women are taught business and marketing skills and helped to form business cooperatives in their villages so they can get the best prices for their products.
Awamaki has a shop in Ollantaytambo. and they offer 1–4 day workshops for visitors in weaving, dyeing, and the Quechua language. (Currently, they are recovering from the pandemic, and only have a few workshops, but I am sure they will be adding more as the crises subsides.)
If you enjoy hiking and want to find some off-the-beaten trails in the Sacred Valley, I recommend a small hiking book on offer at the Awamaki shop, Walks, Hikes and Treks around Ollantaytambo.
Read more: Educating & uplifting women in rural Peru | Awamaki
Calca Makes a Nice Base
I really enjoyed using the village of Calca as a base for exploring the Sacred Valley. It is centrally located and you will encounter few other tourists.
Shopping in the daily market was truly an authentic experience. I only saw a couple other non-locals there the entire time I was in Calca.
From Calca, it is easy to get to anyplace else in the Sacred Valley by bus or collectivo. Ask your host how to ride these cheap forms of public transportation.
Suggested Accommodation
I recommend Casa Wilcamayo, a relaxing paradise to return to after a day of explorations. Mabel and David are wonderful hosts who are very knowledgeable about the area. Also, a nice guest kitchen is available.
In my next post, I will talk about some off-the-beaten-track places to walk and hike in the Sacred Valley. In the meantime, you can read more about my adventures in Peru at CathleensOdyssey.com/peru
Cathy Fulton is the author of Dream. Plan. Travel. Your Guide to Independent Travel on a Budget. She is always on the lookout for ways to experience cultures deeply as she travels. She looks for people who share her passion for local cuisine and the fiber arts. As a result, she has met hundreds of people, many of whom have become lifelong friends. Learn more at CathleensOdyssey.com
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