Valencia: A Hidden Gem on the East Coast of Spain, not to be Missed
Often overshadowed by Madrid & Barcelona, the third-largest city in Spain is home to the Holy Grail and many other hidden treasures
I decided to leave Barcelona as it felt a bit rough in places. It’s a beautiful city, but there are parts that didn’t feel so nice.
I thought if I was going to stay and work, I would need to do more research first.
For example, La Rambla, which is a touristy area is a beautiful street with lots of good places to eat, but the atmosphere is not great, in my opinion, especially at night.
It’s not relaxing and the prices are too high. I doubt if locals would eat on that street.
Of course, this is the same in all cities. In Dublin, where I’m from, Temple Bar is that place and I don’t like to go there.
Occasionally, I would walk through just to feel the buzz, but I would rarely eat there.
Barcelona is an awesome city, so I will return and explore it another time.
So, I took a four-and-a-half-hour bus ride south to Valencia. The ticket cost 33 euros with only one stop.
When Covid decides to disappear, I will start to fly again, but for now, it is easier to travel by bus as there are fewer restrictions.
I arrived in Valencia in the afternoon. It was very hot, about 30 degrees. The bus station is a little outside the center of town and 20 mins from my accommodation, so I needed to get a taxi.
Don’t mention the word “Uber” to the taxi drivers in Valencia. It’s a sensitive subject. When I arrived, I noticed there was no Uber, so I tried to get the attention of the taxi drivers outside the bus station.
I wasn’t waving rudely or anything like that, I stood right beside them and they ignored me. I thought, maybe they have bookings or something.
As I couldn’t get an Uber taxi, I walked up to one of them later and said, “Is there no Uber here?” He got angry with me. And then, I knew!
Uber has caused many problems around the world and has been taken to court numerous times.
It happened in Barcelona too, and they were banned, taken to court, and now they’re back, with new rules.
They were also banned in Vietnam. But in Valencia, it’s still a problem.
I told the driver, “I know about Uber,” and proceeded to tell him what I knew about Uber in Barcelona. He settled a bit after that and started to be a bit nicer.
My first impression of the city
It is simple, clean, organized, and very spacious. It has good roads and bike lanes.
You can tell the infrastructure is good with buses and tram lines. They also have a metro in the city.
The architecture is very simple compared to Gaudi’s decorative style in Barcelona. It has a different look to Barcelona. It is much calmer and more spacious too.
Accommodation
It wasn’t easy to find accommodation at a budget price here. As I only like hostels with female dorms or single rooms, I could not get a hostel, and as the hotels are way too expensive for my budget.
The best I could find was a single room with a bathroom for €55 per night at a university.
As it turned out the university was an interesting place to stay. It was clean and comfortable with a cafe on site.
If you are okay with staying in mixed dorms though, there are quite a few of them for about €20 per night.
Overall, I think hostels are way too expensive in Europe. This is why I don’t spend too long in each city.
My idea is to see what I like and when I am more settled, I can fly back to the places I like for a few days and enjoy them fully.
Language
Don’t expect a warm welcome in Spain if you do not speak the language. Basic words are not enough. They get annoyed if you don’t speak Spanish.
I experienced this hostility in Seville, Madrid, and now Valencia. In Barcelona, it’s more acceptable to use English.
I find the Spanish to be impatient, whereas, in Portugal, they will try to help you and they don’t mind speaking English.
Spain is a beautiful country, but without the language, it can be difficult.
Climate
It was 30 degrees Celcius when I got to Valencia, but it felt like 50!! It’s dry heat & humid. I walked around a lot but found it uncomfortable.
But, for anyone who is thinking of coming here to live, it’s a good option as they get nice weather all year round. Even in the winter, it can be around 20–22 degrees Celcius.
History
Valencia, officially València, is the capital of the autonomous community of Valencia and the third-largest city in Spain after Madrid and Barcelona, surpassing 800,000 inhabitants in the municipality.
The city is situated on the banks of Turia, on the east coast of the Iberian Peninsula, fronting the Gulf of Valencia on the Mediterranean Sea. Its historic center is one of the largest in Spain, with approximately 169 ha (420 acres).
— Wikipedia
Valencia is steeped in history. First, it was a Roman colony in 138 BC, then a Muslim city, and finally a Christian city.
This mix is seen in how the architectural designs gracefully blend together. It’s a true work of art that will leave awe-struck by its beauty.
Okay, so let’s start with the old town and its historic sights:
The Basilica of the Virgin/Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparaado
The Basilica was dedicated to the Patron Saint (patroness) of the city, which is the main religious building in Valencia, built in the 17th century by Diego Marinez Ponce de Urrana.
Valencia Cathedral
Seated on a Roman temple, later a mosque, its origins date back to the 13th century.
Valencia’s Cathedral or Saint Mary’s Cathedral is an impressive building nestled between two beautiful squares: Plaza de la Reina and Plaza de la Virgin.
The Cathedral is a spectacular hybrid of styles, from Gothic to Baroque to Neo-Classical with 3 portals in each style. The Baroque façade is the most well-known but as you walk around El Micalet you will not only see but also feel the different moods of each style.
Only one entrance to the Cathedral was open due to Covid. Also, there was construction work going on, so when I arrived at this entrance below, I was unsure if it was the right Cathedral. So, I sort of stumbled upon it wondering, “Is this it?”
The Belltower — El Micalet Torre
The cathedral’s impressive bell tower, known as the Miguelete (or Micalete) is a famous landmark in Valencia. If you’re feeling up to it, you can climb the 207 steps to the top and take in the magnificent panoramic view of the city and the Mediterranean to the east.
Information about the cathedral’s history and architectural styles are available inside the church.
To my surprise, this church is the church that houses the Holy Grail. I didn’t know this before, as I hadn’t done a lot of research on Valencia.
My decision to go there was a last-minute one, so when I came across the Holy Chalice, I was very excited indeed.
I am no longer a practicing Catholic, but I am a practicing Christian, but even when I was a Catholic, I could never understand the fascination with relics.
Why hold on to a piece of clothing or artifact of a saint? It never made sense to me.
But the reason this interested me so much was that this chalice is considered to be the same cup Jesus Christ drank from at the last supper.
What is The Holy Grail/The Holy Chalice?
The sacred relic, the Lord’s chalice is the agate cup, finely polished, according to archaeologists, at the beginning of the first century, in Syria of Egypt.
It is thought to be the “Blessed Cup” of the family of Jerusalem which offered their home to Jesus so that he could celebrate the Last Supper there.
“Then He took the cup, and when He had given thanks He gave it to them, and they all drank from it.”
I wasn’t about to get into the questioning of whether I thought it was true or not when I landed upon the chalice by sheer accident.
I was intrigued and to my delight, I was one of the few who had such a fascination with.
It was a sacred moment for me because the chalice is kept in a special chapel of its own and it’s relatively open and free to walk around.
When I went in, a deep sense of reference came over me.
What if this really is the cup? What if Jesus (God, as a man) held this cup in his hands?
I was deeply moved by that thought and for about five minutes no one came into that chapel. It was like time stood still. I wished I could have had that moment again.
Later back in my room, all I could think about was the chapel and the holy chalice. I wanted to go back, but I didn’t in the end.
The precious cup was taken by St. Peter to Rome, where the popes continued using it. It was moved to the mountains, in the valley of Hecho to hide it from Islamic invaders.
The rise of the Christian kingdom of Aragon took the Holy Chalice, to a monastery of San Juan de la Peňa. It was then moved to different places until finally it was brought back to Valencia in 1436 where it is today.
The Almoina Archaeological Center
Within the Cathedral complex lies Placa de L’Almoina. The Almoina Archaeological Museum is the premier site of ancient historical interest in the city of Valencia.
Discovered in the 1970s, archaeologists revealed the very center of the original Roman city, unearthing the baths, granary, forum, administration buildings, Roman roads as well as the foundations of the Visigoth cathedral and an impressive courtyard of a Moorish Governor‘s residence.
The west side is shady and fortress-like, the east side has narrow streets that make it a pleasant place to walk.
Okay, only one more church, I promise! I just popped in and out of this next church. There was construction work going on inside and outside, so I didn’t stay long.
But, this church really is magnificent!
Santos Juanes Church
Santos Juanes Church in Valencia (Iglesia de San Juan del Mercado or de los Santos Juanes) was declared a National Historic Monument in 1947. It was built in Gothic style in 1240 over a mosque. Although it is popularly known as San Juan del Mercado Church, its real name is the Royal Parish of Santos Juanes and is located next to the Central Market.
If you haven’t noticed already, I have a keen interest in church history. However, I know you lovely readers want to know about other things, so let’s move on…
El Carmen and Mercado Central
El Carmen, the oldest neighborhood in the city has so many things to do, places to see, and hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.
The best way to get to know El Carmen is by wandering through its majestic streets.
Below is a photo of the central market. Unfortunately, it was closed when I went on a Sunday. They sell every kind of cheese, fresh fish, meat, fruit and vegetables and there are also places to eat in the market.
Cafes, Tapas Bars and Restaurants
Just a short walk from the cathedral are lots of small bars and cafes. There was a nice relaxed atmosphere in this area and as you can see not a lot of fear about covid either.
Spain had a long battle with the pandemic before I arrived and so now they are tired of it and just want to get back to life. Don’t we all!
If you are looking for a good restaurant in the area, Taberna la Sénia has been recommended where you can taste the delicious Valencian cuisine.
Don’t forget to try the paella and tapas!
Cuisine:
Valencia is famous for its paella. I had it in Barcelona too and really enjoyed it — so now for paella, Valencian style. This one was with chicken. It was really tasty and filling too.
I had it at the university where I stayed. I noticed all the students were eating it, so I was excited to try it. There was a special deal on and due to my poor Spanish skills, I was surprised to see I got paella, a drink, and an extra seafood dish!
It was a lot of food for me, but I ate it & it was delicious!
Valencia, the city of tapas:
“These small plates uniquely combine various ingredients, sometimes with the effectiveness of the ancient alchemists. Small plates whose size and good price allow you to sample a range of flavors and preparations in the same meal.”
Drinks
There is a wide selection of Spanish wines available, but the Spanish tend to enjoy their beer more. San Miguel is one of the most popular.
Another popular drink is Agua de Valencia, a popular Valencian cocktail.
Or a nonalcoholic drink: Horchata is famous in Valencia It is a drink that looks like milk and is made of chufas, which are tiger nuts.
And of course, you can have a selection of coffees too.
Downtown Valencia: Shopping, Theatre, Cinema & Places to Eat
Valencia is like any other metropolitan city in that it has many great shops from designer to high street fashion. There is a wide range of cafes, restaurants, and ice cream kiosks too.
Plaza de Ayuntamiento/Town Hall Square
Plaza de Ayuntamiento is one of the most beautiful squares in Europe. This square is in the heart of Valencia where life happens. You will see some of the finest Spanish buildings, a fabulous fountain, hotels, cafes, and restaurants all around.
You can find beautiful cafes and restaurants off the main square, like this one below and in the feature image above.
La Lonja de la Seda/Silk Exchange
La Lonja de la Seda is one of the most famous civil gothic monuments in Europe.
It was declared a National Historic and Artistic Monument in July 1931 and was made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in December 1996.
Pere Compte, a Valencian engineer, and architect was one of the main figures involved in its construction.
Jardins del Turia/Turia Gardens
The Jardin del Turia is one of the largest urban natural parks in Spain. It is more than nine kilometers long. The Garden is an ideal space for runners, cyclists, and nature lovers.
One of the 18 bridges over the river Turia
There are 18 bridges over the river Turia, all from different periods and architectural styles.
Ciutat De Les Arts I Les Ciėncies/City of Arts
City of Arts and Sciences is a futuristic Arts & Science Complex with many museums, designed by Santiago Calatrava.
It has the largest aquarium in Europe — Oceanografic of Valencia. All the ecosystems of the world come together here, with their animal and plant inhabitants.
The complex also has the best performances of opera, concerts, and stage shows that can be seen in the auditoriums.
Torres De Serrunos/Serranos Towers/Gate
Torres De Serranos is one of the twelve gates that formed part of the ancient city wall, the Christian Wall (Muralla cristiana), of the city of Valencia, Spain. It was built in Valencian Gothic style at the end of the 14th century (between 1392 and 1398). It is an important landmark and one of the best-preserved monuments of Valencia. — Wikipedia
La Marítima/La Marina de Valėncia
You can get the metro from the center city, by the train station to La Marina de Valéncia.
La Marina is the old port of the city converted into a leisure space with many restaurants, pubs, and cafes.
Beaches
Valencia has a variety of beaches, as it’s situated on the Mediterranean coast.
The closest beaches in Valencia are just 10–20 minutes from the center.
How to get to the beaches:
The beaches in Valencia can easily be accessed by MetroValencia or by bus, EMT Valencia. You will be dropped off directly in front of the boardwalk.
7 Top Natural Parks to Visit in Valencia
Valencian has many parks, but below are the 7 natural parks that are highly recommended by The Valencian community.
They are:
- The Pou Clar, Ontinyent
- Island of Portitxol, Xàbia
- L’Albufera de València
- Les Illes Columbretes
- The Sierra de Mariola
- The Sierra Calderona
- Cim of Penyagolosa
Final thoughts —
As I didn’t get time to see all these amazing places in Valencia, I now want to return.
Valencia has a slow pace which I wasn’t sure if I liked, but after considering it, I think it could be a great city given more time.
Here’s a relaxing video you might enjoy. I feel it captures the essence of Valencia very well.
References:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virgen_de_los_desamparados
https://www.lovevalencia.com/en/how-to-get-to-the-beaches-in-valencia.html
As I am not posting these blogs in order of the dates on which I traveled, I have put together the route I took, starting in Porto, Portugal.
Starting in Portugal
Porto/Braga/Lisbon/Cascais
Spain and France
Seville/Madrid/Barcelona/Nice, France/Barcelona again/Valencia and back to Lisbon, Portugal where I am now.
Thank you for reading!
Below is an article about my time in Madrid, Spain.
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