Food for Thought: The Linguistics of Gastronomy
Many of us love to eat and explore new cuisines (and post about it on social media) — but did you know that in addition to being delicious, food is also a great source of knowledge? Indeed, looking at food through the lens of linguistics can illuminate fascinating tidbits about history, globalization, and cultural exchange.
Take the word ketchup. We know it as the ubiquitous cheeseburger topper: sweet, tart, tomato-y, and delectable with grilled meat. But where did the word originate, and how did it come to be associated with the modern tomato-based condiment? Ketchup actually has its origins in Asia, and has been traced back to a fermented fish sauce popular in southern China in the late 18th century. In the Southern Min dialect, that fish sauce was called 鲑汁 (kôe-chiap) — notice any similarities? The same condiment was brought by traders and fishermen to Indonesia, where kecap became a catch-all word for “sauce” (and is still in use today!). It’s since mutated into many variations, including a syrupy sweet soy variety known as kecap manis. Historians and linguists believe that British merchants were introduced to the condiment either at a trading post in Sumatra or via the Hokkien traders they encountered throughout the region. From there, the Brits started tinkering with the recipe (and pronunciation), eventually landing on the bright red stuff we’ve all come to love.
There are many other dishes we might associate with one culture that really have origins in another. Tempura is a Japanese classic, but the idea of deep-frying protein and vegetables actually came from Portuguese missionaries, who would prepare fried foods during the holy Ember Days (known as the têmporas in Portuguese). And what about good old-fashioned American barbecue — have you noticed how similar it sounds to the Spanish barbacoa? It doesn’t stop there. Barbacoa traces its roots back even further, to the Taíno people from the Caribbean, who first coined barbakoa to refer to a raised structure used to cook meat outside.
Then, of course, we have the many food-related loanwords from French, Arabic, and other languages that have made their way into English: sauerkraut, pretzel, falafel, tortilla, espresso, and hummus, to name a few. They’re all relatively ubiquitous in the United States, and they all come from different languages and cultures. Even the famous New York bagel isn’t a proprietary food — it comes from the Yiddish beigel and was brought to North America by Jewish immigrants.
One of the most amazing things about food is its ability to bring people together. The ancient spice trade facilitated the spread of new ingredients and broadened palates, creating iconic dishes in the process (like Italian pasta, which traces its roots back to China and central Asia). The modern counterpart of this is fusion cuisine: Korean tacos may not be traditional, but they are tasty, and a wonderful way to pay homage to multiple cultures at once. Next time you eat something, have a think about the etymology behind the dish’s name and the origins of its supporting ingredients. Hey — it might even make it taste better.
