Thrifting as a Sustainable Form of Environmentalism
There has always been an interest in shopping for second-hand clothing, but recently the idea of shopping second-hand for environmental reasons has been circulating. And, as demand has increased, new forms of second-hand shopping have arisen. Online shops such as Depop, ThriftUP, and Mercari are all sources in which you can shop online for thrifted clothing. This new wave of interest in thrift shopping for purposes such as environmentalism instead of need or trend will serve greater purposes in combating the environmental repercussions of shopping new — which is now termed fast fashion (DeMesa). Fast fashion is due to the increased consumption of clothing and decreased wear of each piece which leads to more waste and damage to the planet. And, in using thrifting as a format to reduce fast fashion production, it can thereby reduce the environmental destruction fast fashion causes.
One of the most immediate issues about fast fashion is the explicit waste created from the overproduction of clothing and how this overproduction is disposed of directly destroys the environment. For instance, “85% of all textiles go to the dump each year”(Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry), which puts into perspective the vast amount of clothing that ultimately ends up in landfills as a result of fast fashion consumption. The reason for this is because most companies will not donate their clothing if it is ultimately not sold. In many cases, they damage the goods severely so that they are unwearable and no longer sellable, then dispose of them (Krosofsky). The other option companies take part in is the action of burning clothes, which further destroys our currently endangered atmosphere by polluting it with carbon dioxide (Baraniuk). The current status of this practice is having the “equivalent of one garbage truck full of clothes burned or dumped in a landfill every second (Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry).” With almost all clothing companies taking part in either procedure, dumping or burning, it leads to landfills receiving large amounts of textiles and overall increased pollution (Krosofsky). But, if people continue to gear towards shopping second-hand, then the multitude of fabrics, textiles, and articles of clothing that end up in landfills will be reduced. This deterioration of the environment because of fast fashion could be reduced with the continued demand of second-hand clothing shopping because as people’s income shifts from new clothing products to thrifted products, they will reduce the production of fast fashion and thus reduce the amount of clothing that is burned and dumped.
In reducing the amount of clothing and fabrics in landfills, it leads to reduced amounts of clothing within the ocean. The ocean is already heavily polluted from other detrimental factors of our world’s production, but thrifting has the ability to reduce oceanic pollution in some capacities. Many textiles find their way into the ocean and can pose as threats to the wildlife within it, whether they consume it or become physically trapped within it; in most cases, it leads to the early death of wildlife communities. Surprisingly, one of the most common forms of microplastic pollution is made up of the microfibers that end up in the ocean — which is due to textile pollution (Dervishi). The result of clothing ending up in oceans is not purely due to the practices of clothing companies addressed above but also due to the nature of consumers throwing away clothes every year. On average, for example, “Americans throw out about 60–80 pounds of used clothing in a lifetime (DeMesa).” But, as thrifting gives new life to used clothing, it can reduce the amount of clothing thrown away, and as a result, less pollution will land in the ocean from clothing waste.
Other environmentalist effects of thrifting are the reduction of water usage and air pollution that comes from the production of clothes. But why is conserving water important for the environment? It is because conserving water reduces energy use due to the energy that is needed to filter and use water in production; thus by reducing energy it reduces the carbon footprint of producing clothes (How to Conserve Water). When producing clothes, about 2,700 liters of water is needed to produce just cotton one T-shirt, and “cotton is one of the most common fabrics used for clothes” , so it is pertinent to understand the usage of water and its effects on the environment (Malone, Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry). To put it into further perspective “93 billion cubic metres of water — enough to meet the needs of five million people — is used by the fashion industry annually (Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry.” So, when all this water is being used on clothes that, again, have an 85% chance of being in a dump, it becomes clear that thrifting — which gives pre-owned clothes a new purpose — is a clear source of environmentalism. And, when we are able to reduce the amount of water we use in production, it “keeps more in our ecosystems and helps to keep wetland habitats topped up for animals like otters, water voles, herons and fish (How to Conserve Water).” When shifting towards thrifted clothing, the amount of water used to make those clothes will not be wasted on a few years of wear and to only end up in a dump or the ocean. Instead, it can be repurposed again and again. And, as demand shifts towards thrifting instead of new the amount of new clothes produced can be reduced and therefore the water usage used in producing fast fashion can also decrease; therefore representing how thrifting has much larger effects in the environmentalist movement.
Next, when discussing air pollution and fast fashion, as mentioned, it creates carbon emission that affects the planet’s atmosphere and adds to the climate crisis at hand. Although clothing companies only account for 10% of air pollution, it should not be overlooked (DeMesa). Any amount of pollution reduction is positive and can provide our environment with a better chance of healing. Thrifting combats the fashion industry’s harmful effects on the environment by decreasing the demand for fast fashion and therefore decreasing a company’s need to produce exponentially and waste many resources whilst polluting. Furthermore, proving how thrifting has a plethora of environmental benefits and can provide people a sustainable method of participating in environmentalism.
The increased attention to thrifting and its ties to environmentalism has other effects; Companies have begun to shift towards environmentally friendly options within companies which is caused by the high-value consumers now place on environmentalism as seen per increased thrifting. Companies like Nike have created more “sustainable” items that are made with recycled material to appeal to the younger generation’s new devotion to being more environmentally friendly. Other aspects of Nike are their other efforts in production such as “100% of footwear manufacturing waste diverted from landfill or incineration without energy recovery (NIKE- Protecting the Planet).” This impact is made through the significant emphasis that has been placed on environmentalism; it has been noted that “pressure on the fashion industry to respond to its environmental impact continues to grow. It’s the second most polluting sector after oil. And Nike knows that sportswear, in particular, is one area that needs to innovate (Cook).” This proves to be an example of how consumers can strongly affect companies’ products and that Nike and many companies are aware and can be altered by the pressure that the public can place on them in regard to environmentalism. Not only is the pressure pushing companies to make changes like Nike, but the prosperous nature of acquiring customers who seek environmentally friendly options is yet another reason. So, in participating in thrifting does not only have direct effects of reducing waste and pollution, but also serves as a symbol for interest in environmentalism. The impact of second-hand has the potential to continue to affect the way the fashion and clothing industry performs in order to attract the current new wave of environmentalist consumers.
As for thrifting itself, it serves to be sustainable to all parties of the public because it is affordable for most of the public and will always be abundantly available so long as people wear clothing. There will never not be a need or demand for clothing; therefore, second-handing clothing will always exist. It is essential to factor in the need for affordable methods when it comes to environmentalist issues because social class is a great issue among many humanitarian or ethical causes. Other methods of environmentalism, such as eating locally grown food, eating vegan, or buying from ethically producing small businesses, can be methods that are too expensive and out of reach for lower-income people. It gives only people who can afford those methods the opportunity to be environmentally friendly, which also decreases the number of people who may participate in environmentalism. Class and power go hand in hand, and in multiple instances, those with lower class have less power over their living choices and, therefore, less power over the effects of their actions because they are left with fewer choices. But, with second-hand shopping being a mode of environmentalism that is achievable for the majority of people, it allows people of almost all social classes to have a choice in aiding the environment and allowing them a method of power in choice. Which ultimately makes thrifting a sustainable source of environmentalism among all classes of individuals and families.
But, with any solution that may seem too seamless, there are always concerns. Although it has been established that thrifting is generally affordable, it has been brought up as a concern that the increased demand for thrifting has led thrift stores to increase their prices and has caused a rise in re-sellers of second-hand clothing (Kiriscioglu). It is should be known that with a shift in demand, there will be an increase in prices. What does this mean for the consumers of second-hand clothing who have no choice but to shop second-hand? It means they will reenter a period of struggling to find affordable quality clothing as thrifting becomes more popular. There will be more customers taking quality items and leaving those who depend on thrifting with the scraps whilst simultaneously raising the prices. And yes, there will still be clothing left over, and people might think that should be all that matters, but it should still be taken into account that lower-income classes still deserve quality clothing and the opportunity to have clothes that they enjoy at affordable costs. Another aspect that adds to this issue is re-sellers. These are people who essentially search thrift stores for higher-end clothing brands and clothing trends and resell the items for far higher prices. This has the same result of leaving lower-quality items in thrift stores for those who need it and creates a competitive environment within second-hand shops.
But, thrifting has the ability to affect people in two ways: donation and business. Regardless of the scarcity an increase in interest may create, the fact of the matter is that an increase in popularity will create a sustainable cycle of second-hand clothing that will make its way in and out of people’s closets. As popularity grows, people will feel more inclined to donate their clothes, knowing there are people who shop second-hand. The normalization of thrifting leads to further exposure of the option to donate clothes rather than throw them away. And additionally, the rise of demand for second-hand clothing can inspire those to try and make a profit from their used clothes instead of tossing them. Online thrifting apps promote the notion of selling used clothes rather than throwing them away. The demand for thrifting can stimulate many people’s willingness to sell their clothes in hopes of making back the money they spent on it. The motive of making money is a key reason why thrifting is a sustainable source of environmentalism because money, among most people, is a huge motivator. If money lies within thrifting, then thrifting shall prevail. Companies will try to find money within the environmentalist motives of thrifting, while resellers may find their motive in the hopes of finding valuable clothing for a deal within a thrift shop. It is absolute to note that regardless of its partial negative effects, scarcity of higher quality clothing, it serves as a sustainable environmentalist method.
And although not a perfect solution, a way to counteract the rising issues with thrifting is to prompt consumer consciousness. Promoting the notion that many individuals depend on thrift shops is essential. Consumers should be conscious of their shopping habits and try not to overconsume second-hand products even if they are an environmentally friendly choice; they should avoid re-selling at vastly higher prices and even take into consideration they can buy and sell amongst their own friend groups (Kiriscioglu). Those who can afford other methods of environmentalist shopping should take part in those methods. Shopping at small, personally owned businesses or buying from online thrift stores where the stock is more vast are ways they can diminish the effects of taking the majority of quality items and raising prices within in-person thrift stores where most low-income people shop. And, the monetization of thrifted clothing is not entirely bad. With the potential for second-hand clothing to become profitable, it leads to more environmentally friendly fashion sources arising. Not only will individuals be more compelled to sell their used clothing, but people will also be more inspired to partake as it becomes more normalized, popularized, and better form of shopping.
All in all, thrifting has multiple environmental effects ranging from reducing waste in landfills and oceans to reducing water usage and air pollution. And, by affecting the demand for fast fashion, it can push companies to gear toward more environmentally friendly choices and products in order to please consumers. Even with thrifting bringing into question the topic of re-sellers, clothing scarcity, and increased prices in thrift stores, it is pertinent to understand that although these negative aspects are inevitable in some cases, the concept of thrifting still lies as sustainable because it serves its purpose of being environmentally beneficial.
Work Cited
Baraniuk, Chris. “Will Fashion Firms Stop Burning Clothes?” BBC Earth, https://www.bbcearth.com/news/will-fashion-firms-stop-burning-clothes.
Cook, Grace. “Nike Is Grasping the Sustainability Nettle with Its ‘Move to Zero’ Campaign.” British Vogue, British Vogue, 30 Sept. 2020, https://www.vogue.co.uk/news/article/nike-move-to-zero-sustainability.
DeMesa, Angela. “How Thrift Shopping Is Being Kind to the Earth: Swift Wellness.” Swift, Swift, 19 Apr. 2022, https://www.swiftfit.net/blog/sustainable-thrift-shopping#:~:text=Thrift%20shopping%20is%20an%20overlooked,take%20care%20of%20Mother%20Earth.
Dervishi, Kevin. “The Microplastics Crisis–You Are the First Responder.” Science in the News, 27 Sept. 2019, https://sitn.hms.harvard.edu/flash/2019/microplastics-crisis/.
Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry. Geneva Environment Network, https://www.genevaenvironmentnetwork.org/resources/updates/sustainable-fashion/.
How to Conserve Water. The Wildlife Trusts, https://www.wildlifetrusts.org/actions/how-conserve-water#:~:text=Conserving%20water%20saves%20energy.
Kiriscioglu, Celine. “Pay Attention to the Harmful Effects of Thrifting.” The Record, https://record.horacemann.org/7578/opinion/pay-attention-to-the-harmful-effects-of-thrifting/#:~:text=Because%20thrifting%20allows%20clothes%20to,use%20significant%20amounts%20of%20resources.
Krosofsky, Andrew. “Why Fashion Companies Destroy Unsold Goods.” Green Matters, Green Matters, 15 Nov. 2021, https://www.greenmatters.com/p/why-fashion-companies-destroy-unsold-goods.
Malone, Julie. “It Takes 2,700 Liters of Water to Make a T-Shirt.” TriplePundit, 6 Feb. 2013, https://www.triplepundit.com/story/2013/it-takes-2700-liters-water-make-t-shirt/54321.
NIKE- Protecting the Planet. About.nike.com, https://about.nike.com/en/impact/focus-areas/protecting-the-planet.
