The Cracked Mirror of the Cosmetics Industry: How Brands Weaponize the Beauty Standard
The global cosmetics industry is worth over $300 billion as of 2023 and is generally expected to be growing by around 5% annually (Allied Market Research). The pursuit of beauty and the ideal physical appearance has long been a driving force in our society, and the beauty industry has capitalized on this by creating an ever-expanding market for beauty products and services. Regarding the beauty industry, consumerist dependency occurs as a result of various factors such as marketing strategies that promote a culture of constant consumption and the desire to keep up with the latest trends. Consumerist dependency is a concept that refers to how individuals or societies become overly reliant on the act of consuming new goods and services, with the belief that it is the key to personal happiness and success. This results in the constant pursuit of material goods and an increase in overconsumption, leading to a focus on short-term pleasure and a lack of satisfaction or fulfillment. The beauty industry has focused on this never-ending need for more goods and constantly creates new products to target that. The promotion of unrealistic beauty standards by the beauty industry has had a number of negative consequences. The constant pressure to conform to these standards can lead to feelings of inadequacy and dissatisfaction, and can have a negative impact on mental health. Driven by the profit motive of capitalism, the beauty industry creates a self-perpetuating problem where it promotes unrealistic beauty standards that are not only unattainable, but also harmful to individuals’ self image. This leads to a constant need for consumers to attempt to achieve these standards, resulting in a never-ending cycle of consumerist dependency where the industry itself is both the cause and solution of the issue.
The concept of beauty standards is not new and is not only seen in human behavior. Evolutionary aesthetics is a field of study that attempts to understand the origins and evolution of aesthetic preferences and the standards of beauty. The branch of evolutionary psychology argues that preferences for certain physical attributes have historically evolved in relation to serving as signals of good health and genetic quality. Denis Dutton, an American philosopher best known for his work on theories on the evolutionary origins of art and beauty, said that “the experience of beauty is one of the ways that evolution has of arousing and sustaining interest or fascination, even obsession, in order to encourage us toward making the most adaptive decisions for survival and reproduction” (Dutton 5:11). Charles Darwin already presented the theory that female peafowl are attracted to male peafowl with colorful and elaborate feathers because it was a sign of genetic fitness and their ability to survive and reproduce. Dutton took this theory even further, saying that historically all aesthetic pleasure people receive- including environmental, artistic, and sexual beauty- is more evolutionary than cultural. For example, traits such as facial symmetry and clear skin have been preferred through different cultures and time periods because they indicate good health. However, beauty standards today are shaped by a complex interplay of not only historical and biological factors, but also cultural influence by the beauty industry. In relation to today’s beauty standards, the industry has capitalized on these evolved preferences and perpetuated unrealistic standards that are often based on evolutionary aesthetics. For example, the beauty industry promotes ideals of youthful, symmetrical facial features, which are associated with health and fertility. The industry often reinforces certain beauty standards by promoting and selling products that promise to enhance certain physical attributes and aesthetics. This can lead to unrealistic and narrow definitions of beauty that can be difficult for individuals to achieve and can contribute to negative body image and low self-esteem.
Building off the origins of evolutionary aesthetics, advertising has played a significant role in promoting these unrealistic beauty standards over the years. From the early days of mass media, advertisements often featured idealized images of beauty and perfection, which have changed over time to reflect cultural and societal shifts. As media has evolved, so too has the way advertising is used to influence beauty standards, with the rise of digital media allowing for increasingly personalized and targeted advertising campaigns. However, despite these changes, the beauty standards presented in advertisements continue to have a powerful impact on shaping societal norms and individual perceptions of what is considered beautiful. Specifically relating to the cosmetic and skincare industries, advertising has been a major player in altering beauty standards. For many years, advertisements for skincare and makeup products have been focused on promoting the idea that a youthful, flawless complexion is the key to beauty and success. This idea was particularly prominent during the mid-20th century, when the beauty industry began to boom, and has been perpetuated ever since through increasingly sophisticated campaigns. However, more recently, there has been a growing movement towards inclusivity in the beauty industry, with advertisements for skincare and makeup products featuring models and influencers of diverse ages, races, and body types. For example, Fenty Beauty, a cosmetics brand created by singer Rihanna, gained widespread acclaim for its commitment to diversity and inclusion. In their advertisements and product launches, Fenty Beauty presented models of various ethnicities, skin tones, and body types. The brand’s first launch in 2017 included a foundation range with an unparalleled 40 shades to cater to a wide spectrum of skin tones (Rodulfo). Fenty Beauty’s campaign not only featured models with diverse skin tones but also celebrated individuals with unique features such as freckles, albinism, and vitiligo. These shifts in advertising reflect broader cultural changes and a growing recognition of the importance of promoting a more diverse and inclusive standard of beauty.
While social media has allowed for a more democratized representation of beauty in the industry, it has also contributed to negative changes in beauty standards. On one hand, the prevalence of social media platforms has allowed the beauty industry to reach a wider audience. Individuals of all backgrounds are able to share their own personal skincare and makeup routines and tips, and challenge traditional beauty standards. This has led to the development of new beauty ideals and a shift away from the homogeneous beauty standards that were previously perpetuated by advertising. On the other hand, people on social media are constantly exposed to images of seemingly perfect faces, many of which have been edited or photoshopped, leading to increased pressure on individuals to conform to a narrow standard of beauty. This has an even stronger effect on the minds of young people due to them being more impressionable and susceptible to social media advertising. A study was conducted by the American Psychological Association involving 220 students between the ages of 17 and 25 who regularly use social media and showed symptoms of anxiety or depression. After a week, half of them were restricted to 60 minutes of social media a day and after a month, these participants saw a significant improvement in appearance and weight esteem compared to the others (American Psychological Association). Additionally, the rise of influencer culture on social media has further affected the industry. The beauty industry has taken advantage of social media to promote beauty and cosmetic products and services. Nelly London is a social media influencer that is known for her body-positive content and her conversations involving her eating disorder recovery. She often discusses how products are used to target the insecurities of consumers and how beauty brands go as far as to still edit and filter their advertisements to make what would already socially be considered as ‘good skin’ to look even more flawless and unattainable. Despite being a body-positive social figure now, she herself struggled with self-confidence growing up as well due to insecurities (Pitt). Advertisements and sponsored content, sometimes through paid influencers, on social media platforms often feature models with perfect skin and makeup, perpetuating the idea that beauty can be achieved through the use of products. The constant exposure to these images can lead to feelings of inadequacy and low self-esteem, particularly among young people, who just so happen to be the main users of social media apps. Furthermore, the pressure to conform to beauty standards on social media can lead to dangerous and unhealthy behaviors, such as excessive dieting, tanning, and the use of cosmetic procedures to achieve an ideal appearance. The constant comparison to others on social media can also lead to increased stress and anxiety, negatively affecting mental health and overall well-being. While social media has allowed for a more democratized representation of beauty, it has also contributed to negative changes in beauty standards, increasing pressure on individuals to conform to a narrow ideal. Nevertheless, the beauty industry and its advertisements continue to play a significant role in shaping societal norms and beauty standards, and the evolution of this industry will likely continue to be a reflection of broader cultural changes.
Patriarchy, as a social system where men hold primary power, has a significant impact on the cosmetics industry. Historically, the industry often reinforces traditional gender roles through gendered marketing messages that perpetuate the idea that women should strive to be beautiful in order to please men. While all consumers can fall victim to the weaponization of the industry, women are mostly targeted and tend to be the main prey. According to a study commissioned by Groupon, American women spend $313 in one month on cosmetic products compared to $244 for the average man (Zippia). Out of 3000 American women surveyed between the ages 16–75, their face routines involved an average of 16 skincare and cosmetics products, showing how much of an emphasis that society has placed on women’s appearance (Skinstore). Women also outspend men by 28% in the beauty industry but despite this, less than 35% of the executive positions are held by women (Global Cosmetics Industry). Sadly, this imbalance is rarely discussed due to this percentage of female leadership being seen as ‘high’ compared to other areas of work like the technology, energy, and automobile industries. Male-dominated leadership in an industry where the majority of the consumers are women can lead to a lack of understanding and empathy towards the needs and preferences of the target demographic. These male-led companies are pushing a large variety of beauty products onto women who are not even given equal opportunities to work for these companies, just further emphasizing the gender gap. Even in corporate settings, the use of cosmetics products is treated as a requirement for many women and an effect of this is that women that do not use makeup are sometimes seen as unprofessional. While some airlines such as Virgin Atlantic have recently eased their guidelines to allow for more self-expression, female flight attendants for most of the world’s largest airlines still have strict makeup requirements on the job. Jobs such as news presenters and waitresses have an expectation for cosmetics products to be used. While they can and are used as a genuine form of self-expression, there is still a universal pressure on women to buy new products to attain the socially accepted version of beauty.
One seemingly positive aspect of the industry now is a movement of skin positivity that many beauty brands are starting to embrace. This involves accepting your natural face and skin tone, regardless of societal imperfections. The industry is starting to focus on diversifying its products and improving the messaging to accommodate for more individuals and increase accessibility. Makeup brands are straying away from the message of using their products to achieve a certain beauty standard or appeal to the male gaze like it historically has. On one hand, it promotes body positivity and self-acceptance, encouraging individuals to embrace their unique skin and appearance. This can lead to improved self-esteem, reduced anxiety, and a more inclusive definition of beauty. However, there is an irony that lies within the “skin positivity” movement now. It is now being co-opted by companies for commercial gain and used by large brands to promote new products. For example, many current skincare trends that were previously considered as more traditional methods are now having a resurgence due to the natural skincare movement, with products incorporating and promoting ingredients such as CBD and ayurvedic herbs like ashwagandha, holy basil, and turmeric (Sweet). The commodification of the movement has led to concerns about the authenticity of its message and whether its true purpose is to sell more products. The movement doesn’t go far enough in challenging the systemic issues the industry created that contribute to poor body image and self-esteem.
While the beauty industry has allowed for a more diverse representation of beauty, it has also perpetuated unrealistic beauty standards, preys on low self-esteem, and contributed to negative impacts on body image and mental health. Overall, the beauty industry has played a significant role in shaping and altering beauty standards, through various factors such as advertising, and social media. The industry’s focus on constant consumption and promotion of unrealistic norms of beauty, often rooted in evolutionary aesthetics and perpetuated by media, has led to a paradoxical cycle of consumerist dependency and negative consequences for consumers. Regarding the sustainability of this trend in the cosmetics industry, capitalism depends on consumerism to thrive. The beauty industry’s reliance on self-esteem issues to an extent is seen across so many other areas like the fashion, cosmetic surgery, and even the self-care industry. While the industry is heading in the right direction by prioritizing self-acceptance and self-expression, targeted social media and advertisement will always promote products to make them feel like a necessity. Now, it is important for the beauty industry to recognize the harm it has caused and can cause and strive towards promoting a more inclusive and diverse definition of beauty that celebrates individuality and encourages overall well-being.
Works Cited
“Cosmetics Market Size, Share, Industry Trends & Analysis 2021–2027.” Allied Market Research, https://www.alliedmarketresearch.com/cosmetics-market.
“How Much Is Your Face Worth? Woman’s Daily Worth Value 2017 Survey — Skinstore.” Skinstore US, 8 Mar. 2017, https://www.skinstore.com/blog/skincare/womens-face-worth-survey-2017/.
“Reducing Social Media Use Significantly Improves Body Image in Teens, Young Adults.” American Psychological Association, American Psychological Association, https://www.apa.org/news/press/releases/2023/02/social-media-body-image.
Dutton, Denis. “A Darwinian Theory of Beauty.” TED, 2010, https://www.ted.com/talks/denis_dutton_a_darwinian_theory_of_beauty
Kolmar, Chris. “24 Powerful Cosmetics Industry Statistics [2023]: What’s Trending in the Beauty Business?” Zippia 24 Powerful Cosmetics Industry Statistics 2023 Whats Trending In The Beauty Business Comments, 9 Aug. 2022, https://www.zippia.com/advice/cosmetics-industry-statistics/.
Pitt, Sophie. “How Social Media Campaigns Are Damaging Gen z.” BeautyMatter, 26 Feb. 2023, https://beautymatter.com/articles/the-ugly-side-of-beauty-how-social-media-campaigns-are-damaging-gen-z.
Rodulfo, Kristina. “For New Foundation Ranges, ‘Fenty 40’ Is the Magic Number.” ELLE, ELLE, 25 Aug. 2022, https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup-skin-care/a20967710/makeup-companies-40-foundation-shades-fenty-beauty-influence/.
Scianna, Tony. “Report: Almost 2/3 of Executives in Beauty Industry Are Men.” Global Cosmetic Industry, 18 Feb. 2022, https://www.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/news/news/22068577/report-almost-23-of-executives-in-beauty-industry-are-men.
