The Black Madonna of Montserrat
The Black Madonna of Montserrat perched high above the congregation. Hand outstretched, she rested on an ornate throne decorated with Venetian mosaics. From where I sat I could see people kissing her, with the queue of waiting pilgrims stretching back down the stairs, into the Basilica Santa Maria de Montserrat and out the door. The basilica is dark and spacious, filled with candles and gold, shadows and incense. The voices of the famed boys’ choir filled the air.
Reaching the monastery proved an adventure in itself. From the train I watched the mountain range of Montserrat rapidly approaching, a stunning vista of rocks bared like teeth against the sky. Then the monastery came into view, perched high amongst the stone. How on earth was anything ever built here?
The valley below looks as if it’s been farmed for centuries. The soil is poor, and the land parched from the summer sun. Despite this, small vegetable plots lay everywhere, a riot of tomatoes and zucchini, luxurious green against the weak soil. Long thin poles served as trellises for tomatoes. Olive and fruit trees offered some shade.
Each morning at breakfast, after a strong coffee, I smeared fresh garlic over…
