Battle of the bagels.
A true taste of the East End… in Essex.
Just twenty-five miles East of Central London is the popular parish town of Billericay in Essex. Famous for its rich history, it is also home to some exceptional eateries. The new kid on the block is family venture ‘The Hackney Kitchen’, a business which like many has adapted to the current climate by becoming a takeaway-only service.
The Hackney Kitchen is known for knocking out authentic East-end London grub, providing staples like pie and mash and salt beef beigels. It can be found outside ‘The Railway’ pub at the bottom end of the high street, just a stone’s throw from the Railway Station. Owner ‘Grant’, once a black cab driver, was brought up and has spent his whole life in ‘Haggerston’, Hackney, but moved to Billericay in 2017.
If I’m honest, I was initially hesitant. “If you want the real Mccoy…” I’d have previously said, “you have to go to the East-end”. If you want to see the London Eye you don’t go to Brighton. If you want a decent ‘Ruby Murray’ (curry), you don’t go to a Wimpy. So why should I give ‘East-end’ food a chance that’s not served in East end London?
I had followed ‘The Hackney Kitchen’ on Instagram after my first visit and got into contact with Grant who agreed to answer some questions. Even from the short conversation we had, his ethos was apparent. Grant refuses to compromise authenticity and carries with him to Essex his East-End heritage. All of his produce is sourced from East-End London, including his beigels which are baked fresh daily in Brick Lane and his salt beef from his trusty East-end based meat market. In fact, Grant very kindly offered to take me to see for myself.
I am writing this review after two visits and I’ll tell you why. Generally, if a place is local to me, like The Hackney Kitchen is, I will try it twice so I have enough insight to write an informed review. The first time, I can test the food objectively without judgement. Yes, first impressions count and of course, if I enjoy my first experience I am more likely to enjoy the second. However, for me the second visit is just as important because it tests their consistency. There’s nothing worse than having top-notch food somewhere and going back a second time only to be disappointed because it was not up to standard. Thankfully, this was not the case. I enjoyed my second visit to the Hackney Kitchen just as much.
I actually put a poll up on my Instagram story that day asking people what I should go for. As the pie and mash was sold out, I proposed either the salt beef or the smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel. Although the general consensus was in favour of the former, when I got there I could not resist- I had to get both. This came to just over £10 which I found very reasonable.
Firstly, the waiting time was very short; ideal given how cold it was outside. In the meantime, the lady serving me, who introduced herself as Grant’s sister, was extraordinarily friendly and chatty; telling me a bit more about the business. I was served inside of five minutes before taking to my park bench.
First, I went with the salt beef beigel. The beigel itself screamed ‘fresh’, beautifully soft but firm. This allowed for a lovely contrast of textures; the softness of the bagel giving way to the crunch of the pickle; the tanginess of which cut seamlessly through the saltiness of the beef. After just a few effortless chews the beef had melted on my tongue- it was that tender.
The salt beef to bagel ratio was perfect: the cross-section from the first bite revealed a generous helping. Soon, the English mustard became noticeable, packing a punch with its pleasant spiciness at the back of the throat. Nothing overpowering, though. A heavenly balancing act. My only complaint is that I don’t have a lifetime supply of these things.
Next up: the salmon and cream cheese beigel. A completely different dynamic, but a universal classic nevertheless. The slight acidity of the cream cheese, accentuated by a similar air of acidity from the lemon juice, complemented the elegant saltiness of the smoked salmon. Again, the distinct textures worked together harmoniously, with the chewy exterior preceding the smoothness of the cream cheese and smoked salmon. Pure luxury.
