Sunny(ish), sand, and seals

Lida Bayat
Writing in the Media
4 min readFeb 14, 2022
Fanø from the hills © taken by me and my family

A small island off the coast of Esbjerg, Denmark’s fifth-largest city, Fanø is a notorious holiday and summer home for international and Scandinavian tourists and families. With perfect scenic walking routes, beautiful beaches to explore and plenty of activities, it’s little wonder that this small island is home to many’s fondest memories, mine included. Having visited every year of my life, apart from the dreaded lockdowns, here are some insider tips for traversing this hidden holiday destination.

Fanø’s heathered hills provide you with a multitude of hikes up and down the ceaseless mini-mountains. You can easily spend all day walking around its 55.78 km² perimeter, across its ever stretching sandy beaches in the sunny summer. Or maybe enjoy running across them, racing against the wind on colder days, it is perfect to walk with the dog, or to drag the kids along. But it’s not all boring for them, as there are over 300 World War 2 bunkers dotted across the island for you all to explore. So keep your eyes peeled for the next adventure of the day.

When you are not hunting for remnants of history, scattered across the beach are amber gems, notorious for being washed ashore, especially after stormy nights. Go treasure hunting against the best amber spotters and see if you can race them to the prize. Even if you don’t find any, you can always buy a couple of pieces in any of the many amber selling stores in town in the form of necklaces, bracelets, or other decorations for you to remember your shore scavenge with.

During your trips out and about, your interest may be peaked by the dozens of kites you will see flying above you, or by the kite buggies and beach sailing thrill-seekers that bolt past you. With Fanø internationally known for being one of the best places to fly and play your windy sport across, heralded as the Island of kites, visit in mid-June to see the International Kite Fliers Meeting to wonder at their amazing creations and spectacles. Or maybe buy one yourself and join in the fun? And if the kite flying is too static for your liking, possibly rent a buggy and race down the beaches to get your adrenaline buzz as you are pulled by the winds above.

Kite Aerial Photography on Fanø’s international Kite Fliers Meeting by Pierre Lesage

But if the high flying doesn’t catch your attention, turn your eyes to the sea and take a dip in the ocean all around. Though not as tropical as some would like, it is more than refreshing and a fun way to spend your day as you swim it away. But what if you look out and can’t see the wonderful sea as close as you thought it should be? Well at low tide time take a walk out on the seabed and go out about 1.7km and see some of Fanø’s most popular residents, the seals. With many harbour and grey seals making their home in and around the island and its waters, it’s more likely than not that you will catch a glimpse of one as you enjoy your time on the island. But on this low tide trip, you can make your way all the way out to the Galgerev, a large sandbank to the southwest of the town Sønderho, and see it covered in seals, with one even possibly being willing to swim over and say hello.

Gray Seals Colony Helgoland by wolfgang_vogt

When you are done for the day, head down into the towns of Sønderho and Nordby and enjoy a meal or a treat. Dotted with many lovely little cafes and restaurants to catch your fancy, you can more than enjoy an afternoon or evening as you explore the hidden highlights of the island. Be wondered by the glassblower’s wares as they shine the light creating a rainbow of colours around the room or, if you are lucky, catch them in action and see the process for yourself. And once you have got enough of the fire and glass show, explore the art museum(Fano Kunstmuseum) and see the talents that Fanø’s locals and residents have to offer. See if you want to grab a painting for yourself if you can fit it into the car or suitcase for the way back?

Some of Fanø’s lovely houses © taken by me and my family

If it gets too small an island for your current wanderlust, take the ferry back to the mainland and explore the city of Esbjerg in all its glory. Or take a train from the station- the capital Copenhagen is only a 3-hour ride away.

Regardless of what you do, you are guaranteed to have a great time on Fanø. So go, relax, enjoy some peace and calm on lovely wide, white beaches with some gorgeous scenery. Who knows, I might even see you down at the beach or across the hills?

Evening on Fanø, Christoph Kummer

--

--