Everything But the Oink: The Fire and Folks of Whole Hog Barbecue

When you absolutely, positively have to feed a whole mess of folks, accept no substitute for the time-honored pig pickin’.

Andrew Donaldson
Yonder & Home

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Legendary Pitmaster Ed Mitchell of Raleigh, NC preparing whole hog at 2010 Big Apple Barbecue Block Party. Photo by Wally Gobetz via Flickr [CC BY-NC-ND 2.0]

The proper terminology is “Everything but the oink.”

Those who like good pork have plenty of options in enjoying “the other white meat.” Some folks seek to partake of such cuts as ribs, loin, chops, pork belly, hams, or butts (which are actually shoulders). Others enjoy the ears, heads, feet (rebranded trotters for… reasons), or the legendary delicacy that is chitlins. The versatility, flavor, and cost-efficiency of the most consumed animal protein on the planet spans the culinary spectrum from street food to Michelin-starred high-end restaurants that most folks couldn’t afford to get to, let alone dine in.

Cooking an entire pig is a long tradition not only of feeding masses of people, but of a master-level culinary achievement by those who get it right from tip to tail. When you absolutely, positively have to feed a whole mess of folks, and especially if you are in the American south, accept no substitute for the time-honored pig pickin’. For the uninitiated, that means putting a whole hog on the fire to feed throngs of family, friends, church gatherings, charity fundraisers, or…

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Andrew Donaldson
Yonder & Home

Writer. Mountaineer diaspora. Veteran. Managing Editor @ordinarytimemag on culture & politics, food writing @yonderandhome, Host @heardtellshow & other media