Jungfrau: The Roof of Europe
Jungfrau specifically refers to a 13,642-foot peak in the Southern end of the Swiss canton of Bern. More generally, Jungfrau is a region consisting of two stunning valleys that join below an equally impressive cluster of peaks known as the Jungfrau Massif. And Interlaken, named after its position between two impossibly turquoise lakes, is the gateway to the Jungfrau Region. Here, modern high-speed trains and Alpine cable cars criss-cross centuries-old farmhouses and cow pastures, all framed by the most beautiful rivers, valleys, mountains, and glaciers you’re likely to see anywhere else in the world.
Due to its geography and relative accessibility, Interlaken is a year-round playground for outdoor adventurers. Paragliders descend from Beatenberg Amisbühl, 1300-feet to the center of town at all hours of the day. Mountain bikers, base jumpers, abseilers, climbers, backpackers fill the hotels, trains, bars, and restaurants. Our visit coincided with the Jungfrau Marathon, a 26.2-mile course that climbs 6,407 feet and is justly called the highest marathon in Europe.
Side note on the Jungfrau Marathon, it’s the reason we added Interlaken to our world tour. Our close friends and neighbors from Columbus were in town for the race. It’s also an insane event. The last 10 miles are straight up the mountain, where the runners that make it this far become walkers. I’m in awe of my friend, James, who completed the marathon. The entire event was amazing, well-produced, and a lot of fun to watch. Meg and the kids even got into the action, running races of varying distances around Interlaken the day before the marathon.
Interlaken: the gateway to Jungfrau… and the unlikeliest location for a Hooters
We landed in Interlaken, hot off a ten-day caravan road trip around Iceland. We craved warm showers, clean clothes, and a bed that didn’t roll on four wheels. But we also came with extremely high expectations for natural beauty and a continued desire to hike, bike, and explore as much of it as possible. The Jungfrau region delivered on all counts.
Our AirBnB apartment was right in the center of town, a mix of backpacker hostels and 5-star hotels (and a Hooters) scattered about a promenade of high-end brands and jewelry shops. We were surprised by the diversity of restaurants we found, offering legit good food from the Middle East, India, Mexico, and Florida (Hooters). But restaurants and shopping aren’t the reason you visit the Jungfrau Region. Our agenda focused on hiking and touring the surrounding mountains, valleys, and lakes.
We started with a boat tour around Brienzersee, one of the two lakes for which Interlaken is named. I’ve seriously never considered that a body of water could be this color naturally. Glacial silts cause many of the lakes to take on eerie hues of deep blue, turquoise, or milky gray. Brienzersee and its neighbor Thunersee are both turquoise, connected by an equally blue canal. Along the lakes’ shores are postcard-perfect villages that cater to tourists as well as the traditional agricultural industries (dairy and beer mostly) that have sustained the region for centuries.
The hills are alive…
We traveled almost entirely by train around the region, linking to a network of cable cars and gondolas that connect the valleys to the mountain peaks above. Our first day trip took us to Lauterbrunnen, a village that sits in a lush valley squirrel between two 1000-foot, sheer cliffs. The closest comparison I can think of is Yosemite Valley in California, though Lauterbrunnen is far more spectacular. Lauterbrunnen is insanely beautiful.
Waterfalls descend from both sides into this valley, fed by glaciers in the mountains thousands of feet above. Trummelbach Falls actually run down to the valley inside the cliff, having carved slots into the rock over the millenia. We rode a funicular dug into the rock, which led to winding staircases inside the cliff walls to various viewing spots, which was super cool.
Situated atop the opposing side of the valley is the village of Murren. Here we enjoyed a leisurely lunch, followed by a walk along the cliff back toward Lauterbrunnen. Above Murren, a series of cable car rides took us to Schilthorn, a summit at 9,744 feet that stares directly at the Jungfrau Massif along with panoramic views of the entire Swiss Alps. At its top sits a rotating restaurant, Piz Gloria, and a museum dedicated to the James Bond movie filmed there, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, in 1969. Along the way, one cable car stop at Birg and offers a “thrill walk” along steel and glass footpaths built along the vertical cliff wall, looking down some 1,000 feet below. The kids loved this. My lifelong fear of heights was put to the test.
We enjoyed similar day trips and walks to the other valley, which terminates at Grindelwald and ascends to Männlichen, Kleine Scheidegg, and Eigergletscher. Here, we rode cable cars and walked along mountain trails taking in views that can only be described as breathtaking. However, more than anything, the kids loved the cows. Everywhere, cows. In the summer months, cows graze mountain pastures, clanging their signature cowbells as they go. They roam freely, often wandering into villages, along dry ski slopes, and across the many footpaths that line the mountains. Swiss cows have to be the happiest cows on the planet.
We still like people
Despite all this beauty, the highlight of our trip to Interlaken was the chance to enjoy it with some familiar faces. Our close friends and neighbors from Columbus were in town for the marathon, hosted by their friends, the race director and his incredible family. As a result, we were able to see old friend and make some new friends as well.
Coming from Iceland, the bar was set extremely high for whatever country, region, or city we visited next. Interlaken, and the Jungfrau Region, exceeded that bar both because of its incredible natural beauty but also because of the people. Whereas we were a solitary unit inside of our Iceland caravan, in Switzerland we spent time with fun and hospitable hosts who showed us around, shared their history and culture (along with a few glasses of Appenzeller). It was an amazing two weeks in an amazing place we’d love to return to someday (next time, I’m bringing my bike).
Stuff we recommend:
Brunch at Piz Gloria. Atop the 9,744-foot peak of Schilthorn sits a rotating restaurant with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. On a clear day, and we had one, you can see Mont Blanc. Nevermind the Jungfrau Massif that’s staring you in the face, while you stuff said face with breakfast delciousness.
Birg Thrill Walk. As described above, this is a knee-shaking walk along a sheer cliff, over several features designed to make your stomach turn.
Trotti Biking in Grindelwald. This is basically riding a large, scooter down a mountain. It was as fun as it sounds.
Trümmelbach falls. This is the waterfall we visited near Lauterbrunnen that runs inside, around, and through a rock cliff.
Ride a bike to Iseltwald and have lunch at Hotel Chalet du Lac. We had a blast renting and riding bikes from Interlaken to a couple nearby lakeside villages. The tiny town of Iseltwald is charming enough in its own right. But we happened upon the restaurant at this hotel for an afternoon snack and drink. The views were awesome and the staff funny.
El Azteca in Interlaken. Guess where we didn’t expect to find a great Mexican restaurant: in Switzerland. Having lived in California for over 10 years, I often don’t even try Mexican restaurants in Europe. El Azteca is legit and offers super authentic dishes.
