Urlaub in Italien — Day 3 (San Fruttuoso, Portofino)
20日環義日記（菲諾港）
19/5/2022
About Lake Como in Day 2: 經過米蘭和湖邊小鎮巡禮後，我們開過九彎十八拐來到五漁村附近，繼續為期 20日的義式假期。
Over the next few days, we spent our time in the cute coastal towns near Cinque Terre. The previous night in Sestri Levante, we coincidentally met the Swiss parents who also took on vacation there and recommended many hiking routes nearby that lead us to the contiguous seaside towns. Thus, we took the advice of the experts and set out from Camogli to San Fruttuoso, a place that can only be reached by hiking.
Day 3 — Camogli, San Fruttuoso
前一晚在 Sestri Levante巧遇瑞士人父母，他們常來度假，推薦了我們很多前往不同海邊城鎮的爬山路線。於是隔天我們就聽從長輩建議，從 Camogli去一個只有爬山才會到的 San Fruttuoso。
闖進鄉間小巷、經過別戶人家才見登山口，我們在那唯一一間雜貨店點了杯 Espresso、買了些麵包橘子和起司，帶著邊走邊吃。所幸路還算好走，即便不是鋪平的石梯或是木頭步道，林間小路坡度和緩，倒不是太難，不過我這個都市小孩沒爬多高腳就覺得痠了。
而到大概海拔三四百公尺的時候，突然樹蔭退去，熱辣辣的陽光灑下，照耀著山頭和壯闊的地中海，放眼望去海天一線，非常不可思議。
We first wandered through rural alleys and passed by several beautiful houses before reaching the starting point. We stopped at the only grocery store and prepared ourselves with a cup of espresso, some bread, oranges as well as a block of cheese.
Fortunately, the path up the hill had a gentle slope, making it easy to hike even though it wasn’t paved by stones or wood planks. However, as a city boy, my legs began to feel sore after a few hundred meters of escalation. At altitude of about 300–400 meters, the trees suddenly cleared and the hot sun shone, illuminating the mountaintop and the vast Ligurian Sea. It was unimaginable to looking out the horizon where the sea and sky met.
利古里亞海被法國和義大利環繞，海面顯得相當平靜，如此美景陪伴我們的山途真是奢侈。甚至還沒到被列為世界文化遺產的五漁村，我們就已經被這海岸線的魅力深深吸引，全神貫注在這迷人的海景許久，也不覺疲累。自己像是失了神般的時而欣賞著風景，時而注意到自己的呼吸，時而又專注自己邁出的步伐。
不知不覺我們慢慢的爬下山坡，來到了 San Fruttuoso。這裡嚴格來說根本不算城鎮，只有一間餐廳、一座瞭望塔和零星幾棟民宅，但也就是這些構成了這個海邊秘境，沒有商業化的私人海灘和喧鬧的旅客。
我們在海邊享用麵包和起司、在地中海游泳、玩水、傳接球、做日光浴。真的很幸運能夠這樣獨享 San Fruttuoso，要不是緣分讓我遇見了一群這麼契合的朋友，也許我一輩子都無法一覽秘境風光。
Surrounded by France and Italy, the Ligurian Sea was quite calm. It was a luxury to have such scenery accompany us on our hike. Even before reaching Cinque Terre, the world heritage, we were deeply attracted by the charm of this coastline. For a long while, our attention was fully taken away by this view, forgetting our heartbeats or minding our own steps.
Unknowingly, the descending hill had already brought us to San Fruttuoso where only an observation tower was erected and few restaurants were in sight. Strictly speaking, this place is not even a town. But it is these elements, without commercial private beaches and busy tourists, that make up this seaside secret. We enjoyed bread and cheese on the beach, swam in the Mediterranean Sea, played water games and sunbathed. I would never have been to be able to enjoy the heavenly San Fruttuoso like this, if I hadn’t met such a group of like-minded friends.
等太陽悄悄地躲進山裡，海灘最後一絲陽光消失，大家才甘願繼續上路。這時我才驚覺這個秘境不是目的地，我們還有下一個城鎮要去，又是不知道多少個小時的路程…說實話一天這樣運動下來已經有點累了，一路靠著食物和跟大家聊天才分散我的注意力。最終，我看見電線竿以及現代文明的記號，才終於鬆了口氣。
As the sun quietly hid behind the mountains and the last bit of sunlight disappeared from the beach, everyone was willing to continue on the journey. It was only then that I realized this hidden gem was not the destination and we still had another town to go to, which was an unknown number of hours away… To be honest, after a day of this kind of activity, I was a little tired, relying on food and chatting with everyone to distract myself. Finally, I saw power poles and signs of modern civilization, and then I could finally breathe a sigh of relief.
菲諾港 (Portofino)
爬完山汗流浹背的我們竟闖入了風雅的名為 Portofino 的港邊小鎮。鑽出小巷後看見的第一棟建築就明白了，這是一間低調的五星級飯店。前往廣場路上，來來去去人們非富即貴，從他們的打扮、自信的步伐和眼神即能窺知一二。
Getting all sweaty from the hike and stepping out of the narrow alleyways, we stumbled upon a discreet five-star hotel. Down the alley, we came across passersby that were chic, graceful, judging by their attire and confident gait.
沿路更是充斥著精美的小店，有賣皮鞋、高級絲綢、訂製西裝等。就連餐廳戶外的洋傘和桌椅也感覺精緻了起來，桌上燃燃燭光，等著迎接今天遠道而來的嬌客。
突如其來的感官刺激對我來說太衝擊了，突然覺得自己格格不入。我呆坐在港口長椅，腦中不禁想像這些政商名流，在各界是經歷了什麼樣的千辛萬苦，又如何不失優雅及生活情調。
而最終又是什麼樣的契機，這些貴客和我們一樣來到 Portofino，享受他們的義式假期⋯⋯
My bewilderness accumulated as we continued the path. The streets were filled with exquisite shops selling leather shoes, high-end silk, and tailored suits. Even the outdoor dining area felt refined, with candles lit on the tables, ready to welcome today’s distant guests. Until we arrived the square, we found ourselves in this elegant harbor town, Portofino.
The sensory stimulation was so overwhelming that I suddenly felt out of place. I sat on a bench at the harbor, imagining what brought these distinguished guests in all walks of life here, in Portofino, at the exact moment as we were.
What kind of hardships had they gone through, and how they managed to maintain their elegant pace, and eventually, what will it take me to visit here again, enjoying the Urlaub in Italien?
To be continued… Day 4 in Cinque Terre (Monterosso) and Viareggio
