Tōngzhōu Pagoda 三教庙燃灯佛舍利塔
通州大成街
Part of A Better Guide to Běijīng’s coverage of Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond
This is effectively the terminus of the Grand Canal, once home to many grain warehouses, although boats could once continue by another route along the north moat as far as Jīshuǐ Tán (adjacent to the metro station of the same name on the North Second Ring Road). The canalised Tōnghuì Hé flows straight west until just before Běijīng Station, when it turns south to form the remaining section of Běijīng’s moat, wrapping around the bulge of the southern (Chinese, Outer) City.
The Shèlìtǎ (舍利塔) or pagoda is in the grounds of the refurbished and active Sān Jiāo Miào (三教庙), where the Tōnghuì Hé leaves the Dàyùn Hé, both actually canals rather than rivers. Various stories, perhaps misled by the dēng (灯, lantern) character, have the brick and stone pagoda operating as a sort of lighthouse. But a shèlìtǎ is specifically a tower for relics, in this case those of Rándēngfó, the Chinese name of the Dipamkara Buddha who predated the historical Buddha and who forecast his arrival, or simply of texts related to Rándēngfó.
The Sān Jiào are the ‘three doctrines’ of Confucianism, Daoism, and Buddhism, and all three are represented in the increasingly gaudy halls through which you must pass to reach the pagoda. Chanting competes with the sounds of continuing restoration as well as with noise from the construction of new tower blocks all round, likely soon to dwarf the pagoda. Three vast and ancient gnarled beams, adze marks still visible, lie stacked under cover, perhaps awaiting installation in a hall yet to be recreated.
Staggering claims are made as to the pagoda’s antiquity, including that the base is Northern Zhōu (北周, 557–581), but anyone who has visited the Tiānníng Sì Tǎ will recognise the Liáo dynasty style (辽, 907–1125) with 13 narrow octagonal upper layers,and finely carved brick on the lower sections. Despite Táng restorations and a complete rebuild after a collapse in 1636, the tower is probably much as it was when passed by the Macartney embassy of 1793–4, Anglo-French forces in 1860, and the forces relieving the Siege of the Legations in 1900. Cracks made by the Tángshān earthquake (200,000 dead, hushed-up) not long before Máo’s death in 1976 were repaired in 1985.
If you approach from the north side, after skirting the lake in Xī Háizi Gōngyuán (park) just to the west, there’s a mini spirit way, including kneeling horses and sitting camels, obviously moved from elsewhere and now squeezed between the site’s blocked north entrance, new construction, and stagnant water.
Although this area is still well within Běijīng’s suburbs, foreigners are sufficiently rare to be met with surprise and occasionally pointed out to others.
▶ Sān Jiāo Miào Rándēngfó Shèlìtǎ, Tōngzhōu County, gps 39°54’49” N, 116°39’53” E, 9am–4pm. ¥10 (temp. reduction from ¥20). m Tōngzhōu Běi Yuán (Bā Tōng Line), exit A (also signposted ‘Elitist Gardens’) then b 435 four stops to 新华大街. Walk on from the bus stop and first left (north) into Jíxáng Lù (吉祥路). After it bends to the right turn left into Xī Tǎ Hútòng (西塔胡同) and right into Dà Chéng Jiē (大成街). Or from station walk on to junction, turn right (E) up Xīnhuá Xī Jiē (新华西街), ~35 mins. m Tōngzhōu Běi Guān (Line 6) is a little closer. Exit north and turn right, parallel with the expressway, towards the river, turning right again (SE) into Bīnhé Lù (滨河路), which follows the river. Cross another river and turn right (SW) along its south bank into Bīnhuì Nán Yī Jiē (滨惠南一街) by which point the pagoda should be visible and you can make your way across the park. (This route not attempted.) taxi 24km straight E along Jiànguó Mén, then the Jīngtōng Expressway, forking left into Xīnhuá Xī Jiē, then as main text.
The Tōngzhōu Canal having been renovated by late 2019, it may eventually be possible to come from central Běijīng by boat.
Next, in Museums and Other Sights: Introduction to Museums and Other Sights
Previously: Jī Míng Shān Yì
Main Index of A Better Guide to Beijing.
For discussion of China travel, see The Oriental-List.
