What a day. Nellie and I went to Salt Creek on her friend’s 5' 4" fish. The waves were small and I got a few…
For weeks we have planned to do what we did at Martin’s Beach this weekend. We packed up the truck…
The past 3 days of surfing were a lot of things, but at the present moment I’m just not ready to write it all down. Let this picture suffice.
The picture says it all.
Light offshore, grainy water, quick left bowl of water.
One nice little wave on a board I borrowed from some kid.
I drove down with Chas, we changed, and ran out. The waves were smooth, the sets came in defined sections.
We weren’t quite sure what our plans were, but Ben wanted something with adrenaline to distract him and we all certainly…