Carving through the Caucasus: Travelogue and Suggested Itinerary Part One — Armenia
4–5 Days in Armenia
The Caucasus is a mesmerising region, a melting pot of history, culture, people, and amazing landscapes to boot. In this two-part blog series, I will share my experience traveling through Armenia (Part One) and Georgia (Part Two) over the course of ten days. My “vertical” trip started in Yerevan and essentially moves northwards to the Kazbegi region of Georgia.
The photos in this travelogue are mine, please do feel free to use them with credit to this blog or to my instagram account. At the bottom of the blogpiece I have included a few logistical morsels.
Personal Perspective
I suspect that a number of those reading this travelogue will feel a similar sense of excitement as I do when forging an itinerary for travel. Every time visiting somewhere new or mysterious, somewhere which generates curiosity, the anticipation of researching my prospective travel plans provides a feeling of exhilaration. When I arrive at my destination, there is a feeling that our time, and our planet, are important. From the momen I get off the plan, I get a feeling of pleasure having arrived and fulfilled my travel plans and when discovering things which are new and unexpected.
I have tried to reflect on why I get so much about travelling, and usually the exhilaration of exploring and the curiosity is complemented by the time to think, and reflect, when you are travelling. Perhaps there is a sad realisation that home feels less and less like home with each passing year, but seeing history and seeing the world does put things in perspective.
My goal for this expedition was to practise mindful travel — to be present, to disconnect and find joy in simple things.
Day One — Arriving in Yerevan
I arrived in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, a land of ancient monasteries, beautiful landscapes and a friendly people known locally as Hayastan “land of the Armenians”.
“Armenia remains a dream, a subject of stories; it is still, against all odds, a place.” Anthony Bourdain
I arrived in Yerevan after a pleasant flight in from Manchester via Vienna. The city blends old and new with a number of interesting juxtapositions, in particular the Soviet-era blending with modern style artchitecture. My first stop was the Cascade, a massive staircase that leads to a panoramic view of the city. They were in the 1970s-1980s, and were originally intended to be part of a monument to Lenin. Now, they provide a hub for families and young couples to meet, and stunning panoramic views of the city and Mount Ararat.
Keeping with the theme of juxtapositions, very close to the cascades are the Opera theatre, completed in 1933 and designed by architect Alexander Tamanian. In front of the beautiful building there are little electric cards for children to play on.
Two churches in Yerevan:
Very close to the opera house lies the 800-year old Katoghike Church
(full name: Church of the Holy Mother of God Katoghike), a 13th century medieval building which has been through wars and earthquakes and is considered a valuable part of Armenia’s cultural heritage. Before visiting Armenia, the only church of this type I had visited was in my father’s city of Isfahan, Iran.
Another church worth visiting, also in the centre, Saint Gregory the Illuminator Church is dedicated to the patron saint of the Armenian Apostolic Church and is credited with converting Armenia to Christianity in the early 4th century.
On the walk between the two churches, there are a couple of Yerevan highlights which are certainly worth visiting. These include Charles Aznavour Square, named after the beloved French-Armenian singer and a popular gathering place for locals and visitors alike, often hosting concerts, festivals, and other cultural events.
The Vermissage and GUM markets are two popular markets, outdoor and indoor respectively. I visited the Vermissage which is a traditional outdoor bazaar and seemed to be popular for locals and tourists. I didn’t visit the GUM market which is a more traditional indoor market.
Republic Square is the centerpiece of the city and is surrounded by several important buildings, including the National Gallery of Armenia, the History Museum of Armenia, and the government buildings. Often it becomes and ice rink in the Winter!
97 percent of Armenians are members of their Apostolic church, but the country does have small historical communities of Jews and Muslims. The Blue Mosque was built in the 18th century during the rule of the Persian Safavid dynasty and is considered one of the oldest surviving mosques in the city. The tiles were imported from Persia — and in the Soviet era became a museum of medieval Armenian art. Click here for more of my photos.
Eating and Drinking in Yerevan
Khorovats is a traditional grilled meat dish made with lamb, beef, or chicken and is served with a side of vegetables and lavash (see day two below), a traditional Armenian flatbread. Armenian Dolma (stuffed vegetable dish) are reasonably similar to regional variants.
There are a number of local wines, though not as many as Georgia in the North (see Part 2 of this travelogue), with Areni wine being particularly famous. A microbrewery and craft beer scene is also burgeoning, and I enjoyed a pint or two at the Dargett BrewPub.
Day Two — Khor Virap Monastery, Garni Temple and Geghard Monastery (Kotayk Province)
Khor Virap Monastery is an active historic 4th century monastery located in the Ararat plain of Armenia, near the border with Turkey. The monastery is famous for its stunning views of Mount Ararat (which is in Turkish territory), believed to be the resting place of Noah’s Ark. More photos here. It is considered the national symbol of Armenia and birthplace of their nation (where patriarch Hayk battled and defeated the Babylonian king Bel at the foot of the mountain). In Turkish it is called Ağrı Dağı. There are a number of popular vantage points for views of Mount Ararat and the surrounding landscape, one of the best close to the monastery being at the calm, clear waters of the Azat Reservoir, a close drive away.
Garni Temple is a short journey away — the only standing Greco-Roman style temple in Armenia, built in the 1st century AD by the Armenian king Tiridates I, and served as a pagan temple until the 4th century AD, when Armenia adopted Christianity as its official religion. The temple was dedicated to the ancient God of the sun, Mihr (Equivalent to the Persian Zoroastrian God Mithra — the era at the time was Parthian). Unfortunately it was destroyed in the 17th century but later reconstructed using the original stones and methods and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Again, the views of the surrounding landscape are beautiful. More photos here.
Yet another short trip away lies yet another world heritage site — Geghard Monastery is an ancient Armenian monastery complex founded in the 4th century AD by Gregory the Illuminator, the patron saint of the Armenian Church. It was built on the site of a sacred spring, which was believed to have healing powers. It is also believed to house the spear used to pierce Jesus Christ’s side during the Crucifixion.
This amazing structure has been carved directly into the cliffs, with most of the beautiful and eerie cave chambers and chapels carved in 1215. The earthquake cracks were something…. For me personally, this was the most amazing religious building of my entire trip, more photos here.
Lavash Bread-Making
Lavash-making is an integral part of Armenian culture and cuisine, and was added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2014.
It is a flatbread made by dough being rolled out into thin sheets, which are then placed on the walls of the tonir oven and baked until crispy and golden brown. Please don’t tell my ancestors but I actually prefer Armenian Lavash to the Persian verion. Persian lavash is thinner, crisper, and has a milder flavour, while Armenian lavash is thicker, chewier, and has a sourdough tang and nutty flavour. It is deeply ingrained in the country’s traditions and history, for example weddings and baptisms.
If I had more time, I would have loved to explore the wineries of the Areni Wine Region to wash down the Lavash.
Day Three— Lake Sevan and Tsaghkadzor
Lake Sevan is considered an essential destination for visitors of Armenia, and is close enough to the capital (60km) to make a visit rather straightforward. On the way, there are quite a few sights worth a peek, many of which are in the ski resort town of Tsaghkadzor. For example, Kecharis Monastery (11th century), where there was a ceremony taking place in the complex which has seen the scars of earthquakes and invasions over the centuries.
Tsaghkadzor means “Valley of Flowers” in Armenian. The town’s name is a testament to the beauty of the natural landscapes and the abundance of wildflowers that grow in the area. I was visiting in Spring and the blooming was only just starting to get going. The mountain air here was certainly something, and even outside the ordinary season the walks and hikes were very pleasant indeed. The cable car trip in itself was a highlight.
Lake Sevan is the country’s largest lake, and one of the highest freshwater lakes in the world, at 1,900 meters above sea level. It is home to a diverse range of plant and animal species, many of which are unique to the region. In the Summer it is a popular destination for swimming and boating but it was a bit too cold in the early Spring.
There are a number of ancient ruins surrounding the lake, 9th century Sevanavank Monastery is the most visited. It features two main churches on a peninsula that juts out into Lake Sevan, providing amazing views of the surrounding mountains and water. When I was there, the toilet was out of use. If like me you get a cold-induced diuresis, the main town is only 5 minutes walk away and has many facilities.
If you like eating fish, you need to try the local trout, which I particularly enjoyed when prepared in a barbecued fashion. The Sevan trout, also known as the Ishkhan, is a species of salmonid fish, characterized by its reddish-orange coloration and distinctive spots. Overfishing and pollution have led to a decline in fish populations, and there are concerns about the impact of climate change on the lake’s water levels. Efforts are underway to address these issues and protect the lake for future generations.
Day Four — Lori Province, Haghpat and Sanahin
Lori is a province located in the northern part of Armenia and is a little off-the-beaten-track compared to usual itineraries highlighting essential spots in Armenia. I went there for a few reasons, but the convenience of travelling to Georgia (which is bordered by the province) will likely be the main one for those who are exploring the Caucasus by land. The rural area has a number of unique cultural traditions, including traditional dance and rich culinary heritage such as khash (not for the faint-hearted!) and spas.
I stayed at a non-profit guesthouse affiliated to the Children of Armenia Fund (COAF). Armenia has one of the most proactive diasporas in the world, and here they are offering something the country’s government doesn’t — a unique and thorough education experience for children of all ages. I’ve written about it here, but suffice to say that it was an eye-opening experience about different approaches to pedagogy, and the smiles of the children were heart-warming.
Lori Province is home to a number of important historical sites, including the medieval Haghpat and Sanahin monasteries, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Because of their location quite off the traditional trail, these tend to attract less visitors and consequently are more peaceful experiences.
Haghpat is an active monasterial complex founded in the 10th century by the Bagratuni Dynasty and was an important centre of learning and culture during the medieval period, renowned for its rich collection of manuscripts and illuminated texts.
Sanahin Monastery also hails from the same century, and has stone and intricate carvings and decorative elements. I thought both monasterial complexes were worth visiting, but if I had to choose one of the two then I would go to Haghpat just because the surrounding area was more scenic.
Having said that, I went further off the beaten trail here (only 20–30 minutes from Haghpat) — Akhtala Monastery (aka Pghindzavank) which is one of the more remote of the hidden monasteries in Lori. The monastery has some amazing frescoes which actually were in better condition than those at Haghpat and Sanahin, and the gardens are nice to walk around. The drive also including a number of interesting Soviet-era ruins rusting whilst surrounding by lush forest.
I stayed here for a little longer, and after finishing my time in Lori Province, I took a bus down to the regional hub Vanadzor, and then a scenic three-hour Marshrutka trip to neighbouring country Georgia’s capital Tbilisi (Part 2). The land border crossing was pretty uncomplicated.
Logistical Issues
International tourism in Armenia is in an upward trajectory, but there are certain aspects of tourism infrastructure which still have a little way to go. Conversely, there are other aspects which the country pioneers in, I’ve never seen five different codes of braille displayed prominently at the entrance to so many historical sites. Here is what I discovered:
Travel: I travelled with a mix of private tours (I recommend Hyur Service), taxis (which are very cheap — I used the local GG service (which seems to be winning a local turf war with Uber), make sure to tip wherever possible), and sharing rides with others.
Money: There are still many places where cash is used, so I converted 10$ at the airport and the remainder in a bank, which had decent exchange rates. Keep coins as the public loos in Armenia all cost 100 Dram.
Toilets: Generally pretty clean, with the aforementioned fee covering this, but do take alcohol gels.
Religious Customs: Women are asked to cover their hair in monasteries, men should take their hats off, although I didn’t see too much clampdown when this didn’t happen.
Language: Apart from Armenian, many people speak Russian and outside Yerevan it can be difficult to find people who speak English. Using a translation app on my phone was a must in more rural areas.
Tap Water: Tap water is safe and drinkable throughout the country
Further Options
Clearly, this will not be an exhaustive list of Armenia’s must-see sites. It was perfect for my 5 days, but you may wish to add the following to your itinerary.
Dilijan National Park: a beautiful forested area in the north of the country and just a little further north from Lake Sevan. Dilijan itself is a picturesque town known for its traditional Armenian architecture.
Khndzoresk Cave Village and Noravank Monastery: Khndzoresk Cave is an ancient settlement built into the side of a cliff. Noravank Monastery closebyis another medieval complex of churches and chapels. The monastery is located in a beautiful canyon
Tatev Monastery and Jermuk: South of Armenia. The monastery is situated on a high plateau, and getting there involves the Wings of Tatev cable car, which is the longest reversible aerial tramway in the world. Jermuk is resort town famous for its natural hot springs.
Within this itinerary, I haven’t included two days during which I took part in a meditation course within the beautiful landscapes of the Armenian countryside.
Read Part Two (Georgia) here
