Carving through the Caucasus Part Two: Travelogue and Suggested Itinerary — Georgia
5–6 Days in Georgia
Following Part One (Armenia), here is the second part of my travelogue, 5 days travelling in Georgia, again almost vertical strip from the border of Armenia to Kazbegi, close to the Russian border, in the North.
As before, the photos in this travelogue are mine, please do feel free to use them with credit to this blog or to my instagram account. There are a few logistics tips at the bottom of the piece.
Why Georgia?
Georgia is positioned as a crossroads of cultures and a host of spectacular landscapes, which is rapidly expanding as a travel destination. It had always been on my list, although I had seen the Upper Svaneti increasingly features in travel articles and wanted to visit before it might become too busy. In the end, I didn’t even travel there, but hope to go soon. Again, my aim was to practise mindfulness in my travelling — to disconnect and absorb the present, to find the joy which exists in the most simple of things.
I already had a little experience of the fantastic food of Georgia, in particular the breads, and baked produce such as Khachapuri. Ancient Georgian wine-making is also part of humanity’s shared heritage, with the earliest wine-making apparatus found there.
“Gaumarjos!” (Cheers!) The fierce Georgian word for making a toast, which loosely means “victory”
I was also intrigued to travel after watching the mesmerising documentary film Taming the Garden, at my local cinema, about Georgia’s wealthiest man’s penchant for collecting huge and ancient trees.
Locally, Georgia is called Sakartvelo because the name “Kartveli” is historically associated with the Georgian people and the prefix “Sakar” is a Georgian word that means “our own”, so Sakartvelo basically means “our own Georgia” or “Georgia of the Georgians.” This reflects the strong sense of national identity and pride that the Georgian people have in their country and culture.
Day One — Arriving in Tbilisi
After a three-hour Marshrutka from Armenia’s Vanadzor (which cost 11000 Dram/28 dollars), travelling through some spectacular scenery in the lesser Caucasus range, I arrived at Tbilisi, the vibrant capital of Georgia which lies on the banks of the Mtkvari River and is surrounded by mountains on all three sides.
The old Silk Road city’s name translates to “warm location” as it was founded on hot sulphuric springs that still flow through the city. Now, the Old Town of Tbilisi is a UNESCO World Heritage site, with charming cobbled streets and historical landmarks a-plenty.
I was tired on arrival and wanted to take the cable car up to the top of Mtatsminda Mountain, but it was out-of-action, and the walk up the hill through the Old Town wasn’t too bad at all. I reached the 4th century Narikala Fortress which offers panoramic views of Tbilisi and the surrounding mountains. This castle has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times following conquests from Georgia’s neighbours, and features a mixture of Byzantine, Persian, and Georgian architectural styles, with more recent walls and towers made of brick and stone. It also offers great views of the city, and is next to the Botanical Garden.
The striking mix of old and new architecture on arrival was described by the driver as like a Chakhokhbili stew — everything thrown into one pot. It mixes Russian and Persian-style influences to European hanging balconies, to art nouveau buildings and futuristic glass structures with the modern side of the city reflected in its impressive architecture, including the iconic Bridge of Peace, designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi, and the modernist Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre.
There are Persian-designed baths in Abanotubani closeby, where the thermal water bubbles up naturally from the ground below. I visited one of these baths — their history dates back to the 17th century, when the area was first settled by Persian merchants who came to Tbilisi to trade. They discovered the natural hot springs that flow beneath the city and recognized the therapeutic benefits of the sulphur-rich waters. Soon, bathhouses began to be built around the springs, and now there are well over a dozen. They used to be a popular meeting place for politicians and intellectuals, who would gather to discuss important issues and exchange ideas. Now, the architecture is a blend of Persian and Georgian styles, and each bathhouse has a changing room, a hot room, a warm room, and a cold room.
Moving away from Abanotubani, a walk into the Old Town reveals old Georgian and Armenian churches, mosques and synagogues and even ruins of the world’s most northern Zoroastrian fire temple. Unfortunately when I knocked on the door (the priest will open if inside) there was no one there.
Next door to a synagogue and church, Tbilisi’s Jumah mosque is one of the only ones in the world where Sunnis and Shias pray together after after a Soviet-era crackdown in the 1950s pushed the city’s Shi’a community out of their mosque. The two demoninations have separate minbars, but otherwise they pray side-by-side. It’s become a symbol of unity, imagine if the rest of the world followed suit? The front blue-and-white facade now serves as the entrance a bathhouse, but the mosque itself behind this has a capacity of over 5,000 worshippers.
Another example of the Tbilisi stew — the leaning clock tower is a unique landmark, built in the mid-19th century and a mix of Georgian, Armenian, and European styles, reflecting Tbilisi’s cosmopolitan history. The tower is made of brick and stone and stands at a height of 28 meters. It has a clockface on each of its sides (added in 1907) and leans at an angle of about 8 degrees due to an earthquake in 2002, which caused significant damage to the tower’s foundation. Elsewhere in the city there are other signs of structures impacted by earthquakes, wars and internal conflict.
Day Two — Gori, Mtskheta, Uplistsikhe, Jvari Monastery
On day two, I travelled westward, starting with the Uplistsikhe Cave Town. This is an ancient rock-hewn town dating back to the 1st millennium BC which resembles a lunar landscape. It was an important center of worship for the pre-Christian pagan religion of Georgia and was continuously inhabited until the 13th century. Here there are multiple caves, tunnels, houses, temples, and streets carved out of the rock, and includes a theater, a pharmacy, and a large hall for public gatherings (more photos here).
Gori is Georgia’s third largest city and a short drive away, famous for being the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, former leader of the USSR. But before arriving there, and especially if the weather is good, I recommend you visit the peaceful Gori Fortress — a 13th century medieval fortress located on a hill whihc has been the city’s defensive stronghold throughout its history.
The Stalin Museum is a fascinating and unique glimpse into the controversial leader (born 1878 in Gori), highlighting Soviet history and the complexities of Georgia’s past. The marble-clad toilets in the museum are amongst the best public facilities in the Caucasus.
The most intersting aspects of the museum are the preservation of his house and personal train carriage which he used to move around the Soviet Union. His small one bedroom wooden childhood home is exactly as it was back then, with a park built around the perfectly-preserved building.
In the museum itself, his personal belongings are all present, such as his pipe, writing desk, and military uniform. If you’ve seen Armando Iannucci’s excellent dark comedy The Death of Stalin, the original meeting room is here and it’s a surreal thing to see.
The museum is clearly the subject of controversy, with many critics arguing that it glorifies Stalin and downplays the atrocities committed under his leadership. There are no references to his purges in the tour itself. Although interestingly there is a little room hidden beside the entrance which shows pictures of the more recent Russian-Georgian relationship.
Closeby, the 6th century Jvari Monastery is a UNESCO World Heritage site located on a hill overlooking the ancient city of Mtskheta. It is believed to be the site where St. Nino erected a wooden cross in the 4th century, making it an important pilgrimage destination for Georgian Orthodox Christians. It combines elements of Byzantine, Armenian, and Georgian design, the hilltop location provides amazing views of the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers.
I visited the monastery on Easter Sunday, when it was bustling, and then made my way down to the ancient city and Georgia’s old capital (for 800 years) of Mtskheta. On arrival here there were a maze of palms being dispensed everywhere.
Within the walls, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral is believed to house the robe of Christ, which was brought to Mtskheta by a Georgian Jew after the crucifixion. The cathedral was rebuilt several times throughout the centuries and is one of the most important religious sites in Georgia. It was interesting to see a cathedral surrounded by fortified walls.
More photos from Jvari Monastery and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral here.
Day Three — Ananuri Fortress and the Kazbegi National Park
To the North! The voyage to Kazbegi with the first stop being at the Zhinvali Reservoir, framed by the Caucasus mountains and full of trout and carp. There were some beautiful stray dogs on the banks of the reservoir, created in the 1980s by damming the Aragvi River.
Nearby the reservoir, the 16th century Ananuri Fortress complex (once the seat of the powerful Dukes of Aragvi) sits as a defensive stronghold over the area. The world heritage site contains a medieval church, a watchtower, and a palace, with some beautifully preserved stonework. More photos here.
The drive north sees a change in scenery as the land whitens. Looming on a hilltop in a sea of white, the 30 metre tall Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument is a unique and controversial monument built in 1983 to commemorate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk, a treaty signed between the Russian Empire and the Kingdom of Georgia in 1783. In this treaty, Georgia allied with Russia against Persia (Although Russia invaded Georgia 8 years later).
A symbol of Soviet-era friendship between Georgia and Russia, the monument overlooks a key military route, and the Caucasus mountains. It serves as a reminder of the complicated relationship between the two countries and the juxtaposition of the monument with the snowy Caucasus is apt. Photos here
The weather was windy, cold and overcast, and I was a little unlucky with my visit to the Gergeti Trinity Church — a staple of picturesque instagram photos of Kazbegi when the weather is good. The UNESCO world heritage site was built in the 14th century, and sits on Mount Kazbek, and is home to a number of valuable religious artifacts, including ancient icons and a 17th-century gospel book. It is only really accessible with four-wheel drive vehicles (and foot when the conditions aren’t too icy), and is a popular destination for hikers and trekkers. Here is a nice selection of the other folks’ pictures when the weather is good.
Even if the view of the church wasn’t toogreat from the hilltop, it was pretty fantastic from the baths at the Rooms in Stepantsminda, Kazbegi. I stayed here for two nights and used it as a base for hiking the surrounding area. The weather was a little unpredictable, which made that dip in the hot water just that bit more pleasant. Views of the surrounding mountains and valleys were also hard to beat.
For hiking in April, there was still that bit of ice so I recommend good hiking gear even for shorter walks, and of course warm clothes until the mercury goes up in May. I did find a couple of treks on various trail apps and although they were enjoyable, I did fall on my back and bottom a few times.
I’m not sure if I was imaging it, but I found the air in Kazbegi is particularly pure and refreshing compared to other mountainous areas of the world I have been to. Perhaps the sparse population, lack of pollution, high altitude (air is thinner and less dense) and natural environment with pristine forests combined to create this effect. Regardless, it was an energising experience and made me even more keen to travel to the Svaneti region in the future.
Day Four — Rainbow Mountains and the David Gareja Monastery Complex
Today, a shorter day trip to the Eastern side of Georgia, driving through the Kakheti wine region first — The region is home to numerous vineyards that produce a variety of grapes, including Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, Kisi, and Mtsvane. Stopping by a lake first, Kapatadze lake is an alpine body of water (2,400m above sea level). Apparently there are bears, deer and wolves around the lake!
From here, it is a short drive to the rainbow mountains of Georgia. Personally it was a lovely moment as exactly 20 years ago I saw the rainbow mountains of Peru! (and hope to see the mountains of China and Iran)
These are made up of layers of sedimentary rock that have been exposed to various elements, such as wind, water, and sunlight, resulting in a spectacular display of vivid colours. The various colours of the rocks reflect different geological periods and varying mineral deposits — with red and yellow hues from iron oxide, green from copper sulfate, and purple from manganese. The weather was good enough to hike through the mountains.
The David Gareja Monastery Complex overlooks the rainbow mountains. This lies on the border between Georgia and Azerbaijan (there are border guards at the site!), and is a complex of ancient rock-hewn monasteries founded in the 6th century by one of the thirteen Assyrian fathers, St. David Garejeli, who came to the region to spread Christianity. It has a unique blend of Georgian, Byzantine, and Persian influences, although was damaged during the Soviet era.
The monastery is still an active place of worship, and each monastery has its own unique architecture. There are also examples of the ancient Georgian Asomtavruli script.
Day Five — Return to Tbilisi, Botanical Gardens and some wine-tasting
Another trip to the top of Mount Mtatsminda — this time the cable car was working and the weather was nice. Sololaki, the residential area at the higher part of the city, was originally a residential area for wealthy merchants and nobles, and the winding streets are certainly worth exploring.
Here you can see the surreal palace of Georgia’s richest man, Bidzina Ivanishvilli, who is worth at least 5 billion dollars, making his fortune during the privatisation era of Russia after the fall of the Soviet Union. His house can be seen by anyone visiting Tbilisi’s fantastic botanical garden. One can even peek a little inside to see a private theatre/cinema area. I have no idea what the giant sphere is. Apparently he has not one but eight different breeds of peacock here (!)
The eccentric billionaire actually became prime minister of Georgia for one year. His habit of transplanting ancient trees into his own dendrological park was the subject of the excellent film “Taming the Garden” which I blogged about here, a symbolic film which asks some tough ethical and philosophical questions.
Trees are important in Georgian culture, and his palace overlooks the Tbilisi Botanical Garden, established in 1845 and covering 128 hectares over the southern slopes of the Trialeti Range. The garden is home to over 4,500 plant species from around the world. The collection includes rare and endangered species, as well as many endemic plants from Georgia and the Caucasus region.
There is a Japanese Garden, the Rose Garden, the Alpine Garden, the Mediterranean Garden, and a Georgian Flora section. There are also a number of very cute stray cats and kittens. The trees are the highlight though, and here there are Lebanon and Himalayan Cedars, Atlas Cedars, Persian Ironwoods, Japanese Pagoda Trees, Ginkgo Bilobas… More photos here
I would recommend walking back down rather than taking the funicular, as the latter is too quick to take in the views and the skies can be quite something here.
When the sun falls, the modernist structures light up. For example, the modernist Tbilisi Opera and Ballet Theatre, and the Bridge of Peace spanning the Kura River, designed by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi.
You may want to try out some eating and drinking in Old Tbilisi:
The birthplace of wine
Georgia’s ancient tradition of fermenting grape juice in clay vessels, known as kvevris, is on the UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. With hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, Georgian wine is gaining recognition globally and has been forced to expand beyond its traditional Russian market. It is a core part of Georgia’s national identity.
For wine-tasting in Tbilisi, I recommend the 8000 Vintages company. In the old town itself, many merchants offer free wine tasting but the quality can be variable.
Food and drink
I can’t cover all of Georgian cuisine in a travelogue, but I can cover my favourite — If you like baked things, particularly gooey cheese bread, then Georgia is your country. My favourite — Khachapuri. There are a number of regional versions of this but I enjoyed Adjarian Khachapuri the most — a fluffy white bread the shape of a boat, stuffed with cheese and topped with an egg. There are many other styles of this.
Logistical Issues
Georgia’s tourism infrastructure is slightly more developed than Armenia, and consequently there are also a few more fraudsters around, but generally this is a safe, and straightforward) country to be a tourist in and there were no significant problems for me. Here are my tips:
Travel : Alongside taxis, buses, marshrutkas, there are a good number of tour companies. I used the young and vibrant company Gamarjoba(which means hello in Georgian), who were a very professional outfit.
Taxis: There are a huge number of taxi scammers, most notoriously at Tbilisi airport. This can really impact the start of your travel so please plan in advance either with a pre-purchased transfer, or using ride-sharing apps — I used Bolt.
Money: Bank cards are accepted more widely in Georgia than Armenia (especially Amex), but cash still is needed for certain places. Conversely to Armenia, the best exchange rates are found in (sometimes dingy-looking) exchange booths rather than the banks. Do be prepared to negotiate rates, especially with less used currencies (I had some canadian dollars in my pocket which I wanted to get rid of).
Toilets: Variable, better in some places than others but overall OK. Be prepared to pay 0.50–1 Lari in certain places.
Religious Customs: Men need to take their hats off, and women are required to cover their hair in monasteries.
Language: Older Georgians tend to speak Russian rather than English as their second language, but there is a huge generational shift with fewer younger Georgians speaking Russian (with political reasons having a strong role here), and many speaking fairly good English. I still needed to use a translation app rarely, but it was easier to communicate than in Armenia.
Prohibited areas: Avoid South Ossetia (on the Russian border, north of Tbilisi) and Abkhazia (bordering Russia and the Black Sea in the far west of Georgia), these are dangerous for tourists.
Other Places to visit in Georgia
Again, this cannot be a comprehensive list of Georgia’s essentials. Here are the other places I wish I could have visited:
Upper Svaneti: This was my initial goal in travelling to Georgia, as pictures of the spectacular mountain scenery have featured in many travel articles over the last year and I was hoping to beat the tourist rush. A little too far out of the way, and slightly out-of-season (Summer would suit this region more). Ushguli is Europe’s highest continuously inhabited settlement.
Vardzia: A 12th century complex of caves that served as a monastic settlement and a strategic defense point during the medieval period. Five monks still ilve there.
Kakheti Wine Region: Traditional winemaking methods, stunning scenery, good for those who fancy a wine-tasting experience
Kutaisi: Can be flied to, in order to reach Svaneti more easily. Kutaisi itself hosts the Bagrati Cathedral and the Gelati Monastery, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Batumi: West of Georgia on the Black Sea Coast, the city hosts a lovely Botanical Garden and seafront promenade.
Colchic Rainforests and Wetlands: Hiking and wildlife spotting in this UNESCO protected area.
Read Part One (Armenia) here
