Tokaj Wine Region
Since I am a self-proclaimed wine aficionado, the word ‘Tokaj’ puts my wine-loving wheels in motion. I knew that this Hungarian region is famous for the great wines it exports all around the world, but what I didn’t know (but was thrilled to find out) is that since 2002 the Tokaj region has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
On the road to Tokaj, I was imagining a small sort of city with wine cellars on the left and right, as well as benches and other cute little small-town stuff. And, boy, were my expectations exceeded! I wasn’t only completely smitten with the wine cellars and benches and beautiful houses with windows full of flowers, but I was also thrilled to see that the area itself had so much more to offer than I had expected.
On a larger scale, the Tokaj area is famous for its widespread vineyards and picturesque hillside panoramas, especially compared to Hungary’s rather flat horizons. The all-the-green-you-can-imagine sort of picture I’m trying to paint starts with hills and hills of vineyards and ends with the calm, deep-green confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers, which meet at Tokaj’s proverbial gates — you actually cross a bridge to enter the town. Nota Bene: Viewing the rivers joining together can induce feelings of meditation, peace, and calm.
The vineyards in Tokaj were first attested to in the 12th century, so we can safely say that the wines have a history. In fact, they are considered a luxurious commodity and have long been widely exported and appreciated on the international market. Well-known for their sweet taste, the only types of wine permitted in the area are Furmint (the Tokaj trademark), Hárslevelü, Yellow Muscat (or Sárgamuskotály), Kabar, Kövérszőlő, and Zéta. And even though white wine isn’t usually my poison, the ones I tried were so delicious that I made a commitment to myself to keep my eyes peeled for Tokaj wine in the future. It’s no wonder that these sweet nectars are mentioned in Hungary’s national anthem.
On the whole, this small town is most interesting on its main road, filled more with wine cellars and wine shops than cafés and restaurants, which gives it an idyllic feel.
We chose to walk to a small square where a church’s steps became the attraction for a group of 7 year olds on a class trip. With the buzzing cries of cheese in our ears, we strolled down the street, passing by two arts and crafts shops that proudly exhibited brightly colored traditional Hungarian clothing and home decor accouterments.
Although this street was neither long nor opulent, Tokaj’s certain je ne sais quoi has stayed with me. I can’t really say what it was — maybe the colorful houses organically decorated with ivy, or the tranquil panorama of the two rivers, or maybe the rustic wine cellars — but in my mind I was already planning a trip dedicated to the exploration of this area.
Tokaj does not end when you pass the road sign marking the end of town; as grapevines continue to spread over the hillsides in magnificently straight and ordered rows, its feeling persists; 5 kilometers down the road, somewhere off to my left, 15 people are picking grapes off the vines, getting ready to make Bacchus proud. What a great time to be passing through Tokaj!
Photo credit: Flavius Neamciuc
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