Japan 2017 — Part 3, Sumo
Part 3 in a series (Part 2, People can be found here).
One a previous trip to Japan we stayed overnight in Tokyo to see the early morning sumo training (“asa geiko”, pictured below). While it was a great experience, I’d never attended an official sumo match. Timing had never worked and also tickets can be hard to come by. However, things fell into place this time and thanks to a generous gift from my father-in-law, we were fortunate enough to attend the May Sumo Grand Championships in Ryōgoku, Tokyo.
I’ve always been impressed by Sumo wrestlers as athletes. They typically average well over 6' and 300lbs and have an impressive combination of power, speed and surprising flexibility. Physically, they’d match up well against NFL offensive or defensive lineman. In recent years, the championships and top ranking positions (Yokozuna) have been dominated by foreigners, especially Mongolians. However, just this year Japan got its first Japanese born Yokozuna in nearly two decades. This was courtesy of the wrestler Kisenosato who is now a household name.
Like several sports with long standing traditions (cricket, golf and tennis being a few that come to mind), etiquette plays an important role. Perhaps none more so than sumo however, whose essence is described as “hinkaku” (dignity). It is this quality, projected through through the honoring of traditions, non celebration in victory and respect to their opponents that is considered as vital as winning. In learning about Sumo, I found this to be one of the most interesting aspects. Many sports have been around for more than one hundred years, but Sumo stands alone in that is has been preserved in time for several centuries. Tennis surfaces quickened and golf picked up space age shaft materials but despite advances in technology, ySumo’s traditions have remain largely unchanged since the Edo period. The sport is not without its controversies however and has been subject to numerous scandals and challenges.
For our day at the championships, we arrived around 3pm. While it’s an all-day event, it’s fairly common to arrive later when the higher ranking matches start. The stadium at Ryōgoku was just beginning to fill up and the atmosphere was bristling and rowdy, yet also unintimidating and family friendly. There was a lot of excitement over Kisenosato (mentioned above) and also Hakuhō, a Yokozuna from Mongolia who is considered one of the greatest Sumo in history. Both would be fighting later that day.
The early matches, fought in the lower divisions, are actually pretty exciting with a lot of speed and effort on display.
From the bout pictured above, the wrestler on the right opened by receiving a relentless barrage of blows to the head and neck. Despite this, he ended as the eventual winner. This type of resilience was well received by the crowd.
Before the final division matches begin, there is an intermission where the top fighters enter the ring.
The only wrestlers absent from circle are the three top ranking Yokozuna. They enter separately and perform a special ceremony, displaying their unique skills. Every move, shuffle and sleight of hand was met with roars from the crowd.
The final Yokozuna matches were impressive. Unfortunately, Kisenosato was injured for much of the tournament and lost his match on this day.
Overall it was a wonderful and unique opportunity for me to experience one of Japan’s most famous traditions. I also made a quick video which captures a sliver of the experience.
