Gonzo Goes to Grozny

Whatever anybody tells you, Grozny nightlife sucks.

“People died, they became orphans. That’s how it is in war, especially when it’s brother against brother.”

The traffic cop who stops us is surprisingly jovial. A “special operation” against terrorists is under way.

Dagestan’s Islamic insurgents are fighting a holy war from the cliffs that tower above us.

Svetlana Isayeva discovered she was not alone when her son went missing without a trace. 

“If a Russian gets offended, he starts drinking. Here a person takes up arms.”

My attempt to sweet-talk a Chechen warlord

A tortured history ties Russia to its restive Muslim provinces.

Never mind the suicide bombers. They’re just trying to get your attention.