TRAVEL I CULTURE
From Resistance to Rejuvenation
An exploration of self at a Japanese onsen
“Don’t you want to try an onsen? (hot springs)” my friend asked before my trip to Japan.
I wasn’t totally dismissive, but inhibitions got the best of me. “Hmmm… maybe not!” I replied.
The thought of being naked in a public bath gave me the chills. But as a person who has always been curious about different cultures, I was keen to experience an onsen. Yet too bashful to take the plunge.
Another friend of mine, who was traveling in Japan around the same time, shared her onsen experience with me. After a knee operation, and post-onsen she felt she could run again. When I asked her about the whole stripping-in-public thing, she just shrugged and said, “No one cares.” Now, given that she’s also Indian, where public nudity is like pigs flying, her nonchalance was revolutionary! She boosted my confidence — I realized, When in Japan, do as the Japanese do.
I started hunting for onsens that allowed swimsuits as I still couldn’t summon the bravery to go au naturel.
My stay in Kyoto was the longest — enough time to indulge in an onsen. But to my dismay, finding an onsen that allowed bathing suits was like a wild goose chase.
In the end, I reluctantly thought of giving up the idea.
Onsens are almost as old as Japan itself. The country’s second-oldest book, the “Nihon Shoki”, published in 720AD, also known as The Chronicles of Japan, mentions Arima and Dogo Onsens. The origin of onsens is still somewhat mysterious, but the natural hot springs scattered across the volcanic islands are bound to have healing properties. Allegedly, onsen was the favorite spot for the Samurai to soak in hot springs to relax their muscles and heal their wounds after battles, rejuvenate, and bond before battles.
The water in onsens is rich with natural elements like sodium bicarbonate and calcium that boost blood circulation and oxygen levels — much like the hot springs I experienced in Iceland. Both the Icelandic and Japanese hot springs have amazing benefits — they melt away stress, enhance sleep, and soothe tense muscles. Of course, the tranquil surroundings at both places are a perfect escape from life’s chaos.
But the similarities end there. Iceland’s hot springs are much bigger, mixed-gender, and yes, swimsuit-friendly! In contrast, Japanese onsens are smaller and segregated by gender. Tattoos are banned due to their historical link with organized crime, think yakuza (gangster), and bathing suits are a no-go — you have to bare it all!
After the first two days in Kyoto, climbing the shrines was tiring, and I walked almost 20,000 steps a day! By the third day, my muscles ached, and my feet were sore from all the walking. The idea of soaking in a hot onsen became more and more tempting!
I went down to the hotel reception to ask about the recommended options in and around Kyoto. They mentioned a few, but the one around Arashiyama stood out for its raving reviews. I decided to book a ticket. Since it wasn’t too expensive, I figured if it ended up being too crowded, I could always leave.
I locked up my belongings and made a conscious effort to lock away my anxiety too
The onsen opened at noon, and I arrived on time to avoid the crowd. To my relief, the place was empty. The receptionist greeted me with a pleasant “Konnichiwa” (hello) and showed me the locker room. I locked up my belongings and made a conscious effort to lock away my anxiety too. Inside the onsen, all you can take are the two towels they provide you. She handed me the towels and a pair of slippers directing me to the ladies' section.
In the dressing room, I chose a closet to keep my clothes, telling myself, Fake it till you make it. Undressing in a shared space was a huge step in embracing vulnerability. To avoid any human encounters, I hurried through the process and rushed to the onsen with my towel.
The uchiyu — the two cozy indoor pools (hot and cold) welcomed me. An elderly lady, who seemed like a local was already relaxing in one of them. She didn’t even glance my way. Her relaxed, couldn’t-care-less attitude calmed my nerves to a great extent.
Through the glass, I could see the rotenburo — the open-air bath nestled amidst the zen garden. The tiny waterfall served as the utase-yu, a stream of water cascading down — nature’s massage for the neck and back. The entire scene was rather calming!
First, for the kakeyu (bathing), I went toward the shower area — one has to clean oneself before soaking. Each shower station was equipped with a stool, a hand shower, an array of soap and shampoo, and even a mirror. And there were partitions — enough to soothe my jittery nerves.
Then, I headed out to the rotenburo as it was empty. The water was hot, so I tiptoed in slowly, though I was itching to hurry up and get settled before anyone else arrived.
Meanwhile, I had to deal with the towel dilemma — in onsen etiquette, the small towel can cover you on the way to the bath but absolutely cannot touch the water. So, I ended up balancing it on my head like a makeshift hat. That’s what the locals do! It’s very essential to follow and respect the onsen etiquette.
Through the glass, I glimpsed, two other women had joined the woman in the uchiyu. They were whispering away like old friends — this could be their regular ritual — meeting up at the onsen to catch up and unwind.
As I sank into the hot water of the rotenburo, I was in rapture. It was like sinking into a long-awaited slumber. My tired muscles relaxed completely — each knot loosening as if a long-held tension was finally letting go.
I scooted over to the utase-yu, positioning myself just right so the stream of water could massage my neck and lower back. And then, oh man, it was pure bliss! I closed my eyes, letting the soothing sound of the waterfall and the warmth of the water engulf me. It was a moment of perfect peace as I slipped into a meditative state, fully immersed in the moment.
The three women were moving effortlessly between the baths, their confidence was so natural that they didn’t even need towels. They were fully present and engaged. Their demeanor echoed, “Here I am, as I am, and that’s more than enough.”
We often tend to overthink and fret about how others perceive us. Especially in Indian culture, one often feels the weight of every gaze. Facing this fear was disconcerting — the gaze of others and persistent self-consciousness can be overwhelming. But a visit to an onsen can be a welcome change — an escape from pervasive gaze and scrutiny. Everyone around you is too absorbed in their own experience to focus on yours. In that communal space, the load of judgment completely crumbles, and it’s incredibly liberating!
The atmosphere was so comfortable and unobtrusive that I started feeling at home. In one corner, there was a small steam room designed for solitary use. I went on to try that before retreating to the rain shower for an energizing cold rinse.
After the blissful toji (hot water) treatment, I headed back to the changing room. This time, as I changed, I felt like a whole new me — cool and composed, a big leap from the clumsy, nervous wreck I’d been while disrobing earlier.
While leaving the onsen, I was ravenous. I was lucky to get a reservation at a nearby charming soba restaurant, Arashiyama Yoshimura, overlooking the river. The riverside view and a plate of Tenzaru soba were all I needed after the onsen indulgence.
By the time I got back to the hotel, I was falling asleep. My muscles were so thoroughly relaxed that I could barely stay alert.
I realized why the Japanese hold their onsens in such high regard. It’s not just about health and relaxation; it’s about a magical transformation that goes beyond the physical.
That night, I slept more peacefully than I ever had before.
“Each of us must confront our own fears, must come face to face with them. How we handle our fears will determine where we go with the rest of our lives. To experience adventure or to be limited by the fear of it.”
— Judy Blume, Tiger Eyes
© 2024 Manali Mitra. All Rights Reserved.
