I come again to the still waters,
Craving, thirsting, hungry;
“Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: A beautiful addiction, a demanding course of…
The outsider plays along;
Moving through each day,
A City, a Coast, Mythology, Reality, and the Vast Differences Between Them
For my Teammates
“We are stronger in the broken places.” -Ernest Hemingway
A Tribute to George Sauer Jr.
A Perspective on Living Outside the Conventional Wisdom
A journal of this day last year, traveling across the country, beyond the reach of the game.