Chapter 2: Arrival in Kathmandu, Touchdown in Lukla!
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After a transit of about four hours in Delhi, I arrived in Kathmandu, Nepal. The journey from the bustling Indian capital to the vibrant capital of Nepal was relatively short, taking only about three hours. However, the stark contrast between the two cities was immediately apparent as soon as I stepped off the plane.
During my long layover in Delhi, I had to change terminals. As I made my way outside the airport, the hot air and swirling dust hit my face, causing me to question whether it was a wise decision to leave the comfort of the airport. The chaos of the surroundings made me rethink my choice, and I quickly decided to retreat back to the airport lounge.
While at the lounge, I savored the flavors of idli, sambar, and vada, knowing that it would be my last taste of South Indian cuisine for the next few weeks or even months (I had no idea for how long I would stay in Nepal). I anticipated relying primarily on Nepali dal baht, a staple dish of lentils and rice, during my trek. As I indulged in the meal, my mind started to wander, envisioning the adventure that lay ahead. Yet, amidst the excitement, I couldn’t help but feel a twinge of nostalgia for the comforts of home that I was leaving behind.
The airport in Delhi was crowded and lacked cleanliness, and I struggled to find a clean restroom. These small inconveniences served as reminders of the comforts I was accustomed to and made me pause to reconsider my decision to venture into the unknown. However, I remained resolute in my determination to embark on this journey, trusting that it would be a transformative experience.
Back at the airport, I phoned my parents, who had no knowledge of my true plans in Nepal. To ease their concerns, I informed them that I was going on vacation and attending a meditation retreat. Keeping the true nature of my adventure a secret allowed me to spare them unnecessary worry and protect their peace of mind.
Boarding the flight from Delhi, I finally arrived in Kathmandu around 14h. The airport was smaller and easier to navigate compared to the bustling international airport in Delhi. Within just 30 minutes, I found myself outside the airport, waiting for my guide from the trekking agency.
I was greeted by a friend of my guide, Arjun, who presented me with a garland, a traditional gesture of welcome. We hopped into a car, and in just 20 minutes, we found ourselves amidst the bustling streets of Thamel.
After checking into my cozy, air-conditioned room with a comfortable queen-size bed and a well-sized bathroom, I took a much-needed hot shower. Feeling refreshed, I decided to call the hotel reception to order a hot Nepali thali for lunch as I was very hungry and it was already way passed lunch time. However, just as I was about to make the call, I received a surprising phone call — Arjun was waiting for me downstairs.
Quickly getting dressed, I made my way downstairs to meet Arjun. To my astonishment, he handed me an envelope containing plane tickets to Lukla, a duffle bag, and a sleeping bag. He informed me that my trek would begin the next day, and a couple from Singapore would be joining me, along with a guide named Gopal who would meet us in Lukla.
The change in plans caught me off guard. Mentally, I hadn’t prepared myself for an immediate start, and I still had some last-minute shopping to do for essentials like hiking poles and toiletries. I questioned Arjun about the change of plans, as we were initially supposed to start the trek after two days. He explained that the couple who were supposed to join me had canceled their trip, and unfortunately, the guide who was supposed to accompany us had encountered an injury during his current trek and couldn’t reach Lukla on time. Arjun assured me that this change was beyond his control and apologized for the inconvenience.
With a heavy heart, I reluctantly agreed to the new plan, understanding that unforeseen circumstances sometimes dictate our course. I decided to forgo lunch, considering the late hour, and ventured out to buy the remaining essentials since my flight to Lukla was scheduled for 7 AM the next day. Exhaustion weighed on me, making each step a challenge. I grabbed an energy bar, which I had purchased for the trek, and headed to the bustling streets of Thamel for my last-minute shopping.
First, I exchanged some local currency before scouring the shops for the best deals. The process was tiring, and by the time I returned to the hotel around 9 PM, I was completely drained. Reluctantly, I ordered a thali from the hotel restaurant, although I had hoped to sample something more authentic from a local eatery. Nevertheless, I had no choice given the late hour and my weariness. After a satisfying meal, I packed my duffle bags, and by 11 PM, I collapsed into bed, falling into a deep slumber.
I awoke at 5:30 AM, feeling refreshed and eager to begin the day. I made my way to Kathmandu’s domestic airport, which was noticeably smaller than its international counterpart. In just 20 minutes, I completed all the necessary security checks and check-in procedures, finding myself at the gate by 6:20 AM. With a 40-minute flight ahead, mixed emotions surged within me as I observed numerous Western travelers with their sturdy backpacks and trekking gear, their athletic builds exuding a sense of readiness.
Here I was, a petite brown woman traveling alone, carrying a backpack that seemed disproportionately heavy. While solo female travel is common in the West, it isn’t as prevalent in the East, and locals seemed intrigued by my purpose in heading to Lukla. I found a seat next to a middle-aged Nepali couple who, like others, were curious about my journey. I shared details about my origin and destination, witnessing their eyes widen with surprise. When I mentioned being married and had just turned 30, their intrigue heightened, prompting them to inquire if I was separated from my husband or if he was unwell, assuming that such adventures were uncommon for a married woman. Initially taken aback by their probing questions, I soon realized the cultural norms and expectations that shaped their curiosity. As I engaged in conversation, I grasped the importance of understanding different perspectives and cultural contexts.
An hour passed, immersed in conversation, before we were informed that the flight to Lukla would be delayed by two hours. The wait stretched on, but I remained patient, knowing that delays and unexpected changes were part of any adventure.
After a two-hour delay, we were finally called to board the aircraft. To my surprise, the aircraft was unlike any I had traveled in before. It resembled a mini-bus, with only around ten seats, and the cockpit was open, allowing us a clear view of the captain’s activities. The uniqueness of the aircraft intrigued me, and I couldn’t help but notice that many passengers, including myself, were tempted to capture the moment. However, the air hostess politely requested that we refrain from taking pictures, reminding us of the importance of safety protocols.
The 30-minute flight to Lukla was a breathtaking experience. As the aircraft soared above the rich Kathmandu Valley, we were treated to panoramic views of the snow-capped Himalayas and picturesque peaks. It was a sight that left me in awe, and I couldn’t help but be captivated by the majesty of the mountains.
Around 10:30 AM, we touched down at Lukla Airport, often referred to as the world’s most dangerous airport due to its notoriously short runway. As I stepped off the aircraft, I realized that the airport bore little resemblance to what I had envisioned. Rather than a traditional airport, it was an open ground nestled amidst the awe-inspiring mountains that surrounded us. The remote location added to the mystique of the place, and I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and apprehension as I set foot in this extraordinary setting.
We gathered outside to collect our bags, and as I waited, my mind raced with thoughts and emotions. What would the next few weeks hold for me? Would I have the physical and mental strength to endure the challenges of the three-week trek? The air was filled with anticipation and uncertainty, but I reminded myself of the reasons that had led me here. I sought personal growth, adventure, and a connection with nature, and I was determined to embrace whatever lay ahead.
To be continued…….
Monica
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