Chapter 3: The Journey Begins (en route to Phakding)
Read Chapter 1 here
Read Chapter 2 here
My eyes scanned the crowd of people gathered at the Lukla airport, predominantly Westerners embarking on treks like myself or local Nepalis awaiting their clients. Arjun had informed me that I would be met by a guide named Gopal. Before I could spot him, Gopal found me and asked if I was Monica from India. He was a short, round-faced man who looked like he was in his late 30s, and he immediately took charge, taking my duffle bag and suggesting we have some breakfast before starting our trail to Phakding.
Stepping out of the airport, a chilly breeze caressed my cheeks, prompting me to layer up with an additional fleece and a head cap. I relished the moment, taking in the sight of charming little houses that resembled toys. We entered a tea house, climbing a few stairs before finding ourselves in a deserted space where we enjoyed a light breakfast of omelet and toast. Afterward, Gopal advised me to transfer non-essential items from my day bag to the duffle bag, as my day bag was too heavy for the 5–6-hour trek to Phakding. Hastily, I sorted through my belongings, shifting items from one bag to another. Shibu, my porter, shouldered my duffle bag. He was a young lad, likely in his late teens, who spoke little Hindi and primarily communicated in Nepali. I engaged in some conversation with Shibu before he began his journey to Phakding.
By now, you must be curious about the Singaporean couple Arjun mentioned. They had taken an early morning flight and were already on their way to Phakding with their porter after reaching Lukla at 7 AM. Gopal dai (an affectionate term for an elder brother in Nepali) and I embarked on our trek. The trail was not particularly challenging, with more descent than ascent, so I didn’t feel the need to use my trekking poles. As I walked, I marveled at the beauty of snow-capped mountains, the presence of adorable fluffy dogs and cats, yaks, bulls and mules laboring under heavy loads, and men and women carrying burdens on their backs. The breathtaking scenery thrilled me, and I couldn’t resist capturing the splendor with my camera, snapping pictures every 100 meters.
As we made our way along the trail, I struck up conversations with some of the fellow travelers we encountered. A group of experienced trekkers returning from Everest Base Camp shared stories of their challenging but rewarding journey. They spoke of the incredible views, the sense of achievement, and the challenges they faced. Their tales inspired me and filled me with excitement for the adventure ahead.
As I continued walking along the trail, I met a friendly couple from Australia who were experiencing their first trek in the Himalayas. We talked about our travel adventures and connected instantly, as we all had a passion for exploring new places. When I mentioned that Nepal marked my 35th country visited, they were taken aback. You see, most of my previous journeys had been planned and organized by my husband, sisters, or friends who took charge of the planning process. I explained that although I had been on a few shorter solo trips in the past, they had never extended beyond a couple of weeks. This time, however, things were different. It was an open-ended journey, with no fixed end date in mind (at least until I start yearning for home!). With excitement, I expressed my eagerness to embrace the unknown and allow the trip to unfold naturally, without being bound by a rigid itinerary.
During the trek, I also encountered a solo hiker from Canada. He had been on the trail for several days, enjoying the solitude and serenity of the mountains. We walked together for a while, engaging in deep conversations about life, nature, and the pursuit of adventure. His reflections and philosophical insights added a new dimension to my experience, reminding me of the transformative power of the mountains.
We traversed a suspension bridge, which provided a thrilling experience in itself. Around 4 PM, we arrived at Phakding. The trail had been moderate, serving as a warm-up for the days ahead. Since it was well past lunchtime and close to dinnertime, I settled for a warm soup upon reaching the tea house in Phakding. Gopal advised me to take some rest and said we would meet for dinner at 7 PM.
Entering my room more like a tent it had a thin wall and floor, I discovered its simplicity — just a bed and a mattress. It measured a modest 6x6 meters, but as a petite woman, I managed just fine. Perhaps that was the reason why I was assigned this room. Collapsing onto the bed, I felt the exhaustion of the day washing over me, and I drifted into a much-needed rest.
After a brief rest, I made my way back to the dining area around 7 PM. A cozy fireplace illuminated the space, filled with fellow travelers like myself, some on their way to the base camp while others were returning. It was easy to distinguish between the two groups by their level of excitement and weariness. Those returning from the base camp sported tired, soggy faces, muddy shoes, and well-worn tracks. Their tanned complexions spoke of the sun’s relentless presence, but their faces also reflected a sense of accomplishment. I conversed with some of these seasoned trekkers, learning from their experiences and sharing my excitement.
I joined a table and found myself in the company of the Singaporean couple, the Australian couple, and the Canadian solo hiker. We shared stories and laughter. Each person had a unique perspective and tales to tell, enriching the overall experience of the journey.
As we ate our steaming hot bowls of chow mein, we exchanged tips, advice, and encouragement for the days to come. The conversations flowed effortlessly, and we found solace in the shared challenges and joys of trekking in the Himalayas.
With the evening coming to a close, Gopal Dai proceeded to brief us on the plans for the following day. He informed us that we needed to be ready by 7 AM for breakfast, as we would begin our trek to Namche Bazaar immediately afterward. The exhaustion from the day had started to catch up with us, and we were too tired to ask many questions. Our muscles began to protest, reminding us of the physical strain we had put them through.
With the briefing concluded, we bid each other goodnight and dispersed to our respective accommodations. As I entered my little room, the reality of the harsh conditions outside began to sink in. The temperature had plummeted, and the biting cold seemed to penetrate every inch of the room.
I quickly realized that I needed to take extra measures to stay warm throughout the night. Layering myself with two additional clothing layers, I carefully nestled inside my sleeping bag to create a barrier against the cold. I reached for a painkiller, hoping to alleviate any pain or soreness that might hinder a good night’s sleep. With a mixture of exhaustion and anticipation for the next challenging day ahead, I closed my eyes and hoped for a good night’s sleep, preparing myself for the grueling trek that awaited us — a journey that would take us from an elevation of 2800 meters to 3400 meters.
To be continued………
Monica
Find below some unfiltered and unedited videos taken at Lukla and Phakding
