Chapter 4: A Trek through Snow and Doubt — From Phakding 2600m to Dingbouche 4400m
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The morning sun greeted us as we gathered for breakfast in the tea house at Phakding on the 2nd day of the trekking. The air was crisp, and a sense of anticipation filled the room. Gopal, our guide, informed us that today would be an important day for acclimatization. We needed to gradually adjust to the increasing altitude to avoid altitude sickness as we made our way to Namche Bazaar which is 10km from Phakding. After a hearty meal of oatmeal and hot tea, we set off on the trail. The path meandered alongside the Dudh Koshi River, its turquoise waters rushing past with a soothing sound. The surroundings were a symphony of nature, with birds chirping and the rustling of leaves in the gentle breeze. The scent of pine trees filled the air, adding to the sensory experience of the trek. As we walked, the trail gradually inclined, and I could feel my heart rate quickening. The altitude was starting to take its toll, and I reminded myself to take slow, steady breaths. Gopal, always attentive, reminded us to pace ourselves and take frequent breaks to drink lots of water. It was essential to listen to our bodies and allow them to adjust to the thinning air.
The trek offered stunning panoramic views of the Himalayas, with peaks piercing through the clouds in the distance. The snow-capped giants seemed to beckon us forward, promising breathtaking vistas and a sense of accomplishment. I couldn’t help but feel humbled by their majesty and the immensity of the natural world.
After a few hours of trekking, we reached a small village called Monjo (elevation 2850m). It was a welcome sight, with teahouses and colorful prayer flags adorning the buildings. We took a much-needed rest and replenished our energy with snacks and water. The villagers greeted us warmly, their smiles reflecting the resilient spirit of the Sherpa people.
Continuing our journey, the trail led us through dense forests of rhododendron and pine trees. The vibrant colors of the rhododendron flowers contrasted beautifully against the lush greenery, creating a picturesque scene. The forest provided a sense of tranquility, shielding us from the sun’s rays and offering respite from physical exertion. We crossed another village Topdanda (elevation 3140m) where we took a short break.
As we approached Namche Bazaar (day 3), the trail steepened, challenging our endurance. Each step required determination and perseverance. Finally, we caught our first glimpse of the bustling town nestled in the mountains. Namche Bazaar, a vibrant hub of trade and culture, welcomed us with open arms.
Gopal led us to our accommodations, a nice cozy room in a teahouse perched on a hillside. The view from the teahouse was awe-inspiring, with the town sprawling below and the snow-capped peaks looming above. It was a moment to savor and reflect on the journey so far. I was fortunate to have a room with a view of the town, allowing me to spend time on the sunny balcony, soaking in the beauty of the surroundings.
But the true luxury awaited us — a hot shower (oh yeah, at this stage, a hot shower is indeed a luxury for me!). Gopal had warned us that hot showers would become scarce as we ascended, and we wouldn’t have access to either a hot shower or bathroom for the next 8 to 10 days until reaching the base camp. So, this was our chance to enjoy a nice hot shower after two days without one. The warm water cascading from head to toe was pure bliss, relieving our tired muscles and rejuvenating my spirits. It felt like a moment of pure indulgence, and I couldn’t help but feel like a little kid, completely enchanted by the experience. On that day, I took a shower for almost 40 minutes — I had never taken such a long shower in my life. It was quite a departure from my usual quick showers, but at that moment, it felt absolutely heavenly.
Everyone in our group had acclimatized well and did not experience any symptoms after reaching Namche Bazaar. We spent two nights in this vibrant town, exploring its colorful markets, interacting with the locals, and immersing ourselves in the Sherpa culture. The rest and acclimatization days allowed our bodies to adjust to the altitude, preparing us for the challenges ahead.
On the second day in Namche Bazaar (trekking day 4), we embarked on an early morning trek to Tengbouche (3800m), situated at an elevation of 3,800 meters. The trail grew steeper, testing our mettle. To add to the challenge, snow began to fall, blanketing the path in a serene white. Walking on the frozen ice demanded extra caution to avoid slipping. Each step required concentration and deliberate movements to maintain balance. The snow-covered landscape transformed our surroundings into a breathtaking winter wonderland, but it also intensified the difficulty of the trek.
We spent the night in the beautiful village of Tengbouche, known for its Sherpa heritage. The next day, we started early around 7 AM and headed towards Dingbouche (4400m) to see the Khumbu glaciers. As we walked through the snowy terrain, I felt a mix of emotions. It was the fifth day of our journey in the Himalayas, and we still had six more days until we reached the base camp. The path ahead seemed really difficult, especially because we had to conquer two tough passes, Kongama la pass, the highest pass before reaching the Everest base camp.
I was very exhausted. The freezing cold made my body ache, and my muscles were tired. Every step was a struggle, and I had to be careful not to slip as we walked close to dangerous cliffs. It felt like one wrong move could be fatal. The pain in my legs was intense, and I had to catch my breath every 100 meters. When we finally reached the tea house, I couldn’t hold back my tears. I was relieved to have finished day six of the trek, but knowing that we still had five more days to go to reach EBC weighed heavily on me.
I was in so much pain that night. Every part of my body hurt, and I was completely drained. The tears I shed were a mix of physical exhaustion and the emotional weight of the journey. It was a tough and vulnerable moment for me.
I collapsed, too tired to move, feeling the ache in my muscles. This journey tested me both physically and mentally. The tears were a release, a way to let go of the strain that had built up. But even at that moment, a flicker of determination was inside me and I told myself that I would finish the trek successfully. Despite the challenges, I knew that this adventure would reward me with incredible views, personal growth, and a deep sense of accomplishment. I reminded myself that the pain and exhaustion were worth it for the beauty that awaited us.
As I settled into sleep that night, I held onto a sense of hope and resilience. I knew there were more tough days ahead, but I was ready to face them with renewed strength. The Himalayas had pushed me to my limits, but they had also shown me how strong I could be. With that thought in mind, I drifted off to sleep, knowing that the journey was far from over.
To be continued…………….
Monica
