Chapter 5: One Step at a Time
In the midst of my three-week trek through the Everest region, I realized that I had forgotten to mention an essential aspect of the journey: the food, lodging, and level of comfort we encountered along the way. Due to my extended travel, I was on a budget, so I had chosen the budget Everest Camp trek, which provided accommodation in basic tea houses. As shown in the pictures I shared in this post, these cozy shelters called tea houses consisted of a kitchen and a dining area that became a haven for tired trekkers seeking warmth and food.
The tea houses, typically two-story buildings, offered simple twin rooms or standard rooms, with some even featuring attached bathrooms for those seeking a touch of comfort (indeed, having an attached bathroom is considered a luxury above 4000m elevation). As we ascended in elevation, the facilities gradually became more limited, and additional amenities, such as hot water, required an extra fee. It was from the sixth day onward that even tap water came at a price, leading us to purchase tap water and purifying tablets to sustain us throughout the journey. Remarkably, I managed to remain healthy.
However, as we ventured further into the mountains, another challenge emerged: the diminishing network coverage. Apart from certain prominent villages like Namche and Dingboche, we found ourselves disconnected from the outside world. Accessing a mobile network required a fee of 1000 Nepalese Rupees for a 24-hour period, and charging electronic devices required a separate payment. Power plugs were scarce in these remote tea houses, adding to the sense of isolation.
Moreover, the toilet facilities underwent a transformation as we ascended higher. The familiar comforts of a Western toilet with a hand shower gradually gave way to a Western toilet with a bucket of water, then to a squat toilet, and finally to a small hole. It was a new experience for me to navigate these toilet arrangements, always mindful not to create an untidy situation in already challenging circumstances. So I always carried essential items such as wet tissues, alcohol wipes, and hand sanitizer in my pocket.
The disparity in facilities became more obvious as we journeyed beyond 3500 meters. Gopal dai, our guide, reminded us to appreciate the relative comfort we encountered during our stay in Namche Bazaar on the second and third days. The respite of a comfortable room and a warm shower served as a reminder of the simplicity that awaited us in the higher altitudes.
Staying connected with my family weighed on my mind throughout the trek. Initially, when the network coverage was relatively stable, I managed to keep in touch. However, from the fourth day onward, I struggled with limited connectivity. To alleviate my family’s concerns, I assured them that I would send a daily message upon safely reaching a tea house. Instructing my husband to contact Arjun (My trekking agency) if he didn’t hear from me for more than 48 hours.
Our typical trekking day followed a predictable rhythm. Rising between 5 and 6 AM, we set off around 6 or 7 AM, depending on the starting point. The day unfolded with steady footsteps, interrupted by a brief lunch break in one of the villages around noon. Afterward, we resumed our journey, aiming to reach the day’s destination village and its tea house by 3 or 4 PM. This allowed us ample time to rest, rejuvenate, and engage with fellow trekkers. Evenings were filled with gathering in the dining room, engaging in heartfelt conversations, and occasionally even impromptu singing with fellow trekkers. We retired to our beds around 9 PM, ready to face the challenges of the next day. Each demanding day concluded with a simple message to my husband: “Survived today.” It became a ritual, a reassurance of my progress and safety before going to sleep. The upcoming days held great significance as we would ascend to a staggering elevation of 5000 meters and tackle treacherous passes, including a daunting glacier crossing.
In the face of uncertainty, I found peace in the simplicity of the tea houses, and the rustic charm of the journey itself. It served as a humbling reminder that true fulfillment lies not in luxurious accommodations or modern amenities, but in appreciating every step taken and the unwavering spirit that propels us forward.
With anticipation and gratitude, I prepared myself for the challenges ahead, eager to uncover the untamed beauty that awaited me beyond each bend in the trail. As I ventured deeper into the heart of the Everest region, the path ahead grew increasingly hard, challenging, triggering moments of self-doubt and testing my strength and resilience. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) added to the challenge, making every step a struggle. I experienced a severe headache, unlike any I had felt before, a pain at the base of my head starting from my neck and spinal cord region.
Gopal Dai, our experienced guide, understood our doubts and emphasized the importance of staying hydrated to fight AMS. Despite drinking lots of water, the symptoms persisted, intensifying the battle within. Drinking plenty of water also meant having to find spots along the trek to relieve ourselves.
With each passing day, the weight of uncertainty grew heavier. The trek from Dingboche to Chukkung (Day 7), and later from Chukkung to Lobuche via the Kongma La Pass (Day 8), tested my endurance. The thin air made breathing difficult, and throbbing headaches served as reminders of the formidable altitude. However, despite the self-doubt clouding my thoughts, I persevered. Gopal dai’s unwavering support and fellow trekkers became sources of strength.
On the eve of the eighth day, as I sought refuge in a cozy tea house, exhaustion overwhelmed me. Both physically and mentally, I was drained. My legs felt heavy, my back ached from carrying the backpack, and blisters on my feet made it a struggle to wear my winter socks and boots. My mind raced with thoughts, but as I glanced around the tea house’s dining room, I realized that the tired, sunburnt faces around me likely shared similar emotions. It was at that moment, gazing out the window, that I began to reflect on the trials that had tested my limits. It all started two months ago, back when I was sitting comfortably on my couch in Belgium, joking with my husband about doing the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal. I laughed at the idea, considering I had never embarked on a multi-day trek in Europe, let alone carried a 7kg backpack. And yet, here I was, at an elevation of around 4000m, surrounded by the majestic Himalayas. In that moment of respite, I acknowledged the distance I had traveled, surpassing obstacles I once believed were impossible. A flicker of pride ignited within me, knowing that I had only two more days left to reach the base camp.
In that instant, I made a conscious decision to release my worries about the destination. I resolved to embrace the beauty of the journey itself, focusing on taking one step at a time. Instead of allowing self-doubt to overshadow my experience, I chose gratitude and appreciation for the progress I had made. I understood that the true essence lay not in reaching the base camp but in the personal growth I had cultivated along the way. Indeed, it was never about the destination but rather about the journey itself.
The journey tested my determination, revealing the strength within me. With a grateful heart, I embraced the challenges ahead. Guided by the mountains’ wisdom, I embarked on the next leg of my trek, cherishing each step as a personal triumph. Standing before the majestic peaks, I realized this journey was more than conquering obstacles — it was an intense exploration of my own limits. Filled with determination and gratitude, I pressed on, eager to discover what lay beyond the horizon.
To be continued….
Monica
