I didn’t plan on surfing today. Chas and I took the day off work to go to a theme park with his…
I drove to Gray Whale in the fog and hiked down. The beach was full of people celebrating the…
The waves were nothing big, but the water was calm and as clear as it gets for Linda Mar. I paddled out to the northernmost break…
I drove to Linda Mar a bit tired. The waves were rippling and peaks were moving. I started at boat docks, dropping into small…
A defined bowl, a swift drop to the left, a quick turn up the face and a straight line as the whole face curls and crashes and I drop into a swirling soup of water, air, and sand.