Okavango Journal #16

This is a story about an alarmingly quiet twilight, the shadow of an elephant, a poorly timed playback, an unzipped tent…

#Okavango16 Journal Day 11

Today a 2,000kg hippo crashed through the reed bed and nearly over top of Chris’s mokoro. When it reached the…

#Okavango16 Journal Day 3

Today we stopped in at Jedibe, a Ba’yei village of about 100 people. We were there to get some supplies and to…

#Okavango16 Journal: Day 1

Photo by Rachel Sussman

Okavango Journal Day 8

My son turns 1 today. I wrote this letter this morning for him.

#Okavango16 Journal Day 10

Yesterday was a rest day for the team, and so being the observant team player that I am I didn’t write a journal…

Okavango Journal Day 7

Mornings on expedition start around 5:45am, when the first person (almost always research manager Götz Neef) wakes up to resuscitate last night’s fire. A percolator gets first shift over the coals, followed by a giant tea kettle. The early shift (by then usually 3 or 4) gets to watch the…

Okavango Journal Day 15

We’re well within motorboat range of Maun, and as such we’ve been seeing a lot more… well, motorboats. And a lot more…

Okavango Journal Day 15

Two years ago, on my first Delta crossing, I asked Gobonamang Kgetho a question that I thought was fairly straight…

Okavango Journal #6

I have some bad news about a rock.

Earlier in the year, Steve heard from a Ba’Yei elder — Comet, that many years ago, local fishermen would often stop at a large island in the Delta and sharpen their knives on a rock.