There are three moments I look forward to each day.
Today I went out for dawn patrol and I just sucked. It was 3 to 4 ft, high tide on…
I went surfing with my last meeting of the day today. We decided to finish it in the ‘board room’ —…
It’s day 6 and my arms are on fire. But I made a plan with Sean Tully of Mindful Rider for a lesson up in Ventura. He’s…