Pinaki

A wedele is a bunch of thin sticks tied together into a bundle, to be thrown as a whole into the oven. It is a term very typical of the…

Follow the story on this map by clicking on the camera icons.

The cruelest part of the desert is its sound. In that emptiness without people, stretched across countries, you will first be aware of the…

Movie stars, medicine men, ghosts & priests

It is 21 degrees up in the Jebel Qara at midday, with fog so thick you can barely see 10m ahead. Barely an hour later, down the other side…

Cuttlefish ink drips down fishing boats, desert sands and Bedu fishermen, staining dishdashas and pickups black. Here, where the desert…

Limqasil is so remote some people have never left it. Wedged tightly between canyons, teetering on the precipice, with the wadi falling…

Suleiman bin Hamood bin Nasser al Jabri gets off his scooter in his deep blue overall, lifting the seat to reveal a thermos full of spiced…

Salma bint Marhoum al Abri is so old she’s lost count of exactly how many years she has lived between the sheer rock face that rises…

There is nothing in Wadi Slooh, nothing except for one pool of water, goats so purebred they are worth RO400 each, and — huddled in the…

Wadi Bani Auf was quietly flooding. As the 44-degree day dissolved into 34-degree twilight, rain pitter-pattered over unending layers of…

The singsong voice of the Shawawi, Oman’s nomadic goatherders, is flowing over the slopes of the Western Hajar, east of Jebel Shams, far…

The Rahbis of Majamma

Archives: 2004–2011