Lost in Oman’s ‘Mother of Poison’

The cruelest part of the desert is its sound. In that emptiness without people, stretched across…

Tribes of Dhofar’s Empty Quarter

It is 21 degrees up in the Jebel Qara at midday, with fog so thick you can barely see 10m ahead…

The Hidden Lives of Muscat

Movie stars, medicine men, ghosts & priests

Follow the Emme

Earringed men whose children wrestle for sport; who gather monthly to dance…

Every Bedouin Loves His Toyota

Cuttlefish ink drips down fishing boats, desert sands and Bedu fishermen, staining dishdashas and pickups…

The Aufis of Wadi Bani Auf

Wadi Bani Auf was quietly flooding. As the 44-degree day dissolved into 34-degree twilight, rain pitter-pattered…

Yazdani Bakery

Deep in the dusty, crowded alleyways of old Mumbai, in lanes packed with people and architecture from the British Raj, somewhere…

The Edge of Calcutta

The room was everything I wanted in my photograph, but the Rajasthani prostitute in Calcutta’s (now Kolkata’s) infamous…

The Music of Greek Teaspons

Chapter One